US blanks

I have US blanks available in my area. My project is to duplicate a lost round nose fish at 6’6’ 20 3/4 wide and 2 7/8 thick. Tail rocker is 1 1/2 and nose entry is 4". The shape has a fairly pulled in tail as is consistent with the rocket fish design. There is v in the tail and a very slight concave starting at the mid point. I am hoping that someone here can direct me to the right blank to use for this project.

610A i think it is. if I remember correctly, it is on the thick side, so you could shape some rocker out of it. check out their online catalogue. good luck

If you’re really comfortable with your planer, go with the 6-8RP. Order it with the “Classic Frye” rockers (-1/2"N30  -3/8"T30"), just skin it, clean-cut the ends and you’ll be close to your numbers for foil and rocker. Just a little fine-tuning the thickness at each end and some minor rocker tweaks should get you there. 

If you’re not really comfortable with your planer yet, go with the 6-10A. You’ll have a lot more foam to mow, but that will give you some margin for error. Besides, its good practice. Cut 2" off each end and your rockers should be close. (I always measure the rockers before mowing any foam so I know what I’m up against.) Make your cuts on the bottom at a consistent depth from tail-to-tip and tip-to-tail so that you don’t modify the existing rocker too much while reducing all that thickness. Once you get within a 1/4" of your desired thickness, check your rocker to see where you might need to make adjustments (tail and/or tip if you want to increase overall curve; mid-section if you want to decrease or flatten overall curve). Keep in mind that you’ll still need to leave enough thickness to skin the deck, and to clean up the stringer both bottom and deck, and still hit your 2-7/8" thickness mark. Sounds like a fun project…

 

Hi Huesos,

It’s going to be extremely tough to get 2-7/8" out of the 6-8RP since it is only 3" but it’s a great choice if you can deal with a finish shape of 2-3/4 or so.  Otherwise you’ll need to go with the 6-10A even though it’s a beast of a blank.  Defitnely good advice to look at your rocker and cut before adjusting thickness.

Good luck-

Brad

too bad you lost your fish.

where did you lose it?

good thing you have

the numbers

to dail up a 

replacement.

 

 

…ambrose…

2 7/8?

cut the template ,turn the rails then

skin the blank

maybe it will be

3 1/4’’

after it is glassed.

 

just write the thickness # wrong.

start here...

http://www.usblanks.com/

 

"just write the thickness # wrong."

AHAHAHAAA!

The 6-10A like foamez should be good. I just finished a simmons using one and and yes it's definitely a beast of a blank, super thick in the middle. In my attempt at thinning the middle a bit  with my crappy planing skills I ended up with a bit of staged rocker, kind of flat through the middle. I smoothed out the transitions the best I could so well see.

Anyway you should be able to get the numbers you want out of that blank. It may take a while but your board is in there somewhere in that mass of foam.

taking off too much foam

will derive a soft deck board

i.e dent a saurus rex.

but if the intention is for this board 

to be lost,anything will be ok.

consider this lost product 

is a computer shape

as there are many

made and marketed

go with that 3’'er

and really go measure what they are calling 2 7/8’’

if it is not 3’’ they shaped it to less than 2 7/8 before glassing

this is the real point of my seemingly comic aside in my first response.

there is some dimension to the laminations that add to the thickness of a -finished- board

especially if they really glass it to be strong with double layers of glass.

cut length off the nose or tail maybe 

to get a volume translation in my book

would be cool but to remove

massive amounts of thickness

is contrary to the concern for soft core foam

that is inherent to the polyurethane blank

molding process.

…ambrose…

now somebody start talking abour a vacum bag veneer

male molding of your favorite mass produced model

now there we have some close tolerance industrial espionage/plagerism…

 

 

I think the best board to make will be a 2 13/16 huesos 2011 model

but that is just me… that huesos guy is hard to get to make a flat out 

custom one off,he charges thousands per board,

maybe he might trade yo for your 91 toyota truck.

those new revolutionary huesos boards are hot.

 

Hey Ambrose how many Pesos for a Huesos?

If you were referring to me about the soft deck I took all the thickness out of the bottom, then just skinned the deck and cleaned it up. Hopefully I won't be standing on the bottom too much to avoid those dents haha!

I love your posts but rarely get the true meaning the first few read-throughs. I need some sort of Enigma machine to decode them sometimes.

soft bottoms/,get tiny floating driftwood dings 

and pebbles on beach sand dings

dogs  and little unsupervised kids

stand on bottoms in backs of station wagons

and pickups and a soft side is a soft side is 

a poorly engineered construction plan.

the close tolerance concept from baron von grubby

takes advantave of the shortcoming

of the polyurethane molding process.

the alternative take would be of course eps

and any of the sup blanks cut in half

would make two sterling fish blanks

I believe the density throughout the

eps blanks can be the same with no

soft spot core.

the enigma chip can be implanted

they come free with new Huesos.

if we can get one .

…ambrose…

also any of the yater blanks

would go if you could dig less rocker

as is the contemp fish a little flatter

and as well any of the 7’ers

in superfused would go

if you could squeeze out

your nose template

on their narrow plan shape.

reading anything twice helps a lot.

i write from my stream of thought

going slower stifles my train of thought.

asking what is good. 

 

I did not expect the extensive discussion on this topic. Thanks to every one who responded. I do have one question however. If I start with the 6-10a which shows the exact rocker of the board I am duping, should I start by cutting the V into the bottom first, followed by fairing the bottom out to flat, all before even cutting out the plan shape?

Skin the botttom to get a nice flat surface for your outline, then cutout your planshape. I wouldn’t cut in your vee until you have the thickness and rocker finished. That’s the way I do it, by no means the only or the best way, others may just cut out the outline first.

have fun.

…ambrose…

Does anyone know what the Classic Frye rocker adjustments are for the US Blanks 7’3" A?  I don’t want to make the assumption that it’s the same as the RP. Thx 

Just called US… I’ll answer my own ? about the 7’3" A in case someone else needs this.  Classic Frye is -1" N @ 24" no adjustments to the tail … Small Frye is -1/2" N. 

Everyone has opinions.  Here’s mine:

I hate the A-series rockers for most designs other than a Hawaiian style pintail singlefin.   IMO a 7-4SP is going to be a better choice for a Frye-type design; just drop the rockers a little flatter.   The standard rocker for a 74SP is already 1" lower than that of the 7-3A and (IMO) it’s a better curve, especially in the tail.   

Great point about the rocker profile on the 7’4" SP…,  I agree it’s a better fit for many lower rocker applications.  My only issue w/ that is the amount of waste up front. The nose on the long fish I’m about to do will be really pulled in.  

I’ll do whatever it takes to get my rocker.