That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
ambrose M. curry III
mark and I made a Baja run in 67', back when gas was 35 cents a gallon, paved Hwy #1 ended just south of Ensenada. Made it as far south as Cabo Collonet, flogging the crap out of my 60's Valiant, spent hours digging out of the soft sand at times. Surfed some waves, ate some fresh caught lobster bought cheap from the local fishermen, encountered a Berkley Professor who had dropped out, living with the Baja Indians (Indians, not Mexicans), eating local Peyote, would swing by our evening campfire and talk gibberish. Never saw another surfer until we returned to the Ensenada area.
A time when you could go on a surf trip with a $100 in your pocket, throw a sleeping bag in the car with wetsuit and board, box of food, and wing it. No Surfline, no charter trips, just roll the dice and go.
Mark was one of the most creative surfers ever back in the day, had the balance of a cat. Unfortunately, decades of cigarettes left him with emphysema.
Ambrose - stumbled on this... Glad to hear you sound like things are rolling along. I hear ya... Not as fun as it seemed like it was... Need more freaky, picture heavy, build threads...
I had a fun surf today.
grabinsky stops by on a rare occasion
wheezing heavy claims he can't
surf with llimits on his breath power...
although I mercilessly and unrelentingly
insist he should get in the water...
should stop by soon it's been a while...
still does art has a body of work in his kit
fantasy charicatures of local surf spots
and an occasional mural,one for scotty's
ribs place in kapaa
live and well on the east side o' kauai
until further notice,mark the bolinas rat
grabinski , catch im' if you can...
haven't seen Mark since maybe 2000, so hadn't realized he had moved to the Garden Island. Tell him Lance says hello. And to get his ass in the water. ride something small. hell, go float.
yea, his art work was always a trip. Very artistic. Had a VW station wagon back in the day that was fully tripped out. Like being in a head shop on Haight back in the dayz.
Bolinas estuary...patrolled by Rodger Green, no wetsuit, HO board, sun tanned to brown shoe leather.
Im fairly new to here but theres an amount of people pulling out and not returning, its like swaylocks jumped the shark or sumthing? whered they go? did they give up building? did they take up another sport? maybe they tired of it all
tide comes in and the tide goes out
sometimes you paddle get thru the reef with nary a scratch
other times drydocked to the max
Sway's is usually a good paddleout
only sometimes folks miss the channel
get drydocked and swear off the lineup
getting reef rashed and a few dings
is just part of surfing
thems that wants it will return for more
thems thats don't
are probably at some beachbreak
Seems like there's been a long flat spell. Nothing coming through worth the paddle out.
good days for cleaning up the workspace
saw some real cool clouds the past days
mind surfing the spray blowing off
the underside of an upper cloud layer
this evening while building a fire
to cook some thin cut ribs
hey look at those clouds...
swim on your back slow...