I've built myself a board that I love in waves under head high. Best board I've ever ridden so long as it not breaking top to bottom. Basically a Dumpster Diver clone supersized for a 205# 43 year old. The only problem with the board is on waves that are overhead and hollow the board will get hung up in the lip and not let me in and will sometimes start to track while I'm paddling into the wave. Problem is particularly when its offshore, hollow and there is a lot of water coming up the face. I'm thinking its a problem caused by the extra foam under my chest and the concave that begins under my chest.
I'm about to embark on building another very similar board but I want this one to get into head high + with ease. Any suggestions to make the next one more user friendly in bigger waves? Eliminate Concave under chest? Less foam under chest??? (Still want it to paddle good though). Softer rails toward the nose? A little bit of forward V???
The board in question is the one in the center on these photos. It's 6'6" and I've hidden a ton of volume in it. 2 and 7/8" thick.