grasshopper wrote: a board thats good for smaller weaker days is not going to be a go-to for overhead barrels no matter what you do to rails, bottom, etcgrab your sleek pintail for when its cranking instead of trying to modify a board made for one set of conditions to match an oppsoite set of conditions. you will just wind up compromising the design. if you want to make a board that will do it all ok then it will do nothing really well.
a board thats good for smaller weaker days is not going to be a go-to for overhead barrels no matter what you do to rails, bottom, etc
grab your sleek pintail for when its cranking instead of trying to modify a board made for one set of conditions to match an oppsoite set of conditions. you will just wind up compromising the design. if you want to make a board that will do it all ok then it will do nothing really well.
grasshopper wrote: a board thats good for smaller weaker days is not going to be a go-to for overhead barrels no matter what you do to rails, bottom, etcgrab your sleek pintail for when its cranking instead of trying to modify a board made for one set of conditions to match an oppsoite set of conditions. you will just wind up compromising the design. if you want to make a board that will do it all ok then it will do nothing really well.i was riding my dd-esque today in some overhead pitching wedges (didnt think the waves would be up as much as they were today) and i took it hard on the best wave i caught - needed some more rocker and a longer rail line.........
i was riding my dd-esque today in some overhead pitching wedges (didnt think the waves would be up as much as they were today) and i took it hard on the best wave i caught - needed some more rocker and a longer rail line.........
Just my take but..
Its more about the rider than it is about the board
there's a whole score of competant longboarders who ride heavy Pipeline/Porto with their logs even on SUPs who would disagree with the above.
If I were only allowed only one board for the rest of my surfing life matter where, it would be a fast paddling heavily glassed epoxy/EPS HP 9'0"-9'4" longboard with a 5 fin setup using 10" center box. Ride it as a 2+1, single, thruster or quad. Even though they went out of style in the 90's they are still very viable boards.
simple vee bottom, pulled in tail either as a wing round pin or baby squash, continuous curve rocker or maybe a 3/4 progressive stager like Griffin does on his.
with enough practice and courage you should be able to surf just about anything given the board is not too light.
They don't duck dive, but you can paddle out and get in very quickly which makes a difference in any kind of wave.
"ain't no big ting brudda"
One goal I've worked on for years is a board that will go good in lots of conditions - the best thing I've found for making adjustments - say I only brought one board, and it turned out to be, for me, small/mushy, I'd change the fin set up: More cant, toe, maybe less fin in the backs (This is all quad for me now.). Makes a big difference.
To be sure - If I was faced with lots of small/mush, I'd have a board I thought was best for those kind of conditions... I've made and had 'em, but most the shorter ones have broken, and I've moved on in my designs. Also, I'm looking for the hole or cut backs... Rarely looking for the lip, or a manouver that'll likely end the ride... Just me.
This is a shortboard thread. Talk of 9'+ 5 fin longboards....besides being lame are irrellivant to this thread. There will be time for boards like that when I'm 60.
mako224 wrote: This is a shortboard thread. Talk of 9'+ 5 fin longboards....besides being lame are irrellivant to this thread. There will be time for boards like that when I'm 60.
What would you normally ride when it's overhead and breaking top to bottom?
I think the problem is that the board is too thick for that kind of wave, or too small, or you are not in good enough shape to catch the wave. Too thick and the wave goes under you, you have to push harder on the nose to keep it in the wave. Too small and you can't get it to the wave before it stands up, so you're air dropping into the pit. Too weak and you get both.
Seeing old, out of shape guys trying to surf on boards they shouldn't be on but not accepting that, is lame.
I'll be 55 and if I go out on a 6' board and can't catch a wave I don't blame the board. And, yes I do a lot of air drops when I ride short boards in good waves. I don't make as many as I used to, but it's not the board.
Finally, yes Oneula is my brother, so your lame comment set me off.
Northen NJ today. Looked like crap in my town though. What a difference an hour and a half drive up the coast can make.
oneula you are right you can ride a board in conditions that your board is not suited for and you can make a board that will suit your style relatively well for a wide range of conditions. obviously the better your skills the easier it is for you to master heavy waves on an ill suited craft. im sure dane reynolds could outsurf anyone in those heavy NJ double ups on a dumpster diver but the average joe is going to benefit greatly from a longer and narrower board with thinner rails dropping into those double ups. you could even ride a longboard out there and make some waves but that doesnt mean its the best board for the conditions.....
mako 6'6 is probably about as long as you are going to want in those tight pockets. pulling the tail into a round pin is good idea. slim it up some through the middle and up front too. even out the curve as those dd's have kind of a funky outline. add more rocker and thin out the rails. you know what a board for good overhead barrels looks like! maybe a bit less concave than your groveler but i wouldnt go flat or belly - it is nice to have the bite that concave gives when you are banking off those steep sections.
Quite competant SharkCountry and in plenty good shape. Not blaming the board at all. Looking for ways to make a better one. I've got a dozen or more boards to choose from from 6'6 to 7'2. Several of them work well in bigger waves with a JC MelMachine 6'8 pintail being the best on big days. The particular board this thread is about is close to being the magic board for me but just has a couple quirks when getting in on bigger waves. Never said I couldn't get in just that its harder to get in than I'd expect the floaty board to be and it starts to track like its on rails under my chest which I find odd. This thread is looking for ways to avoid those quirks in the next one I make which will be more geared toward bigger days so as to compliment the current board. Also keep in mind I'm riding these boards in a 5mil this time of year. Water temp here today is a balmy 39*.
a suggestion - i may be way off base for what you like but from what you are asking i would think something like this would be a good starting point:
6'6-6'8 x 19-1/2 x 14T x 12N (pretty general measurements - tweak to suit)
you could keep center thickness close to your other board (maybe a touch thinner) but make rails noticeably thinner.
push widepoint / foil ahead of center a bit for paddle power
I find floaty short boards harder to get into steep waves here as well. If you watch the kids on the their thin chips, you'll see that they are already laying lower in the water than people with thicker boards. What I do is pop the short board's tail into the water and get that extra push when it comes back up, and use your legs to add even more thrust. Time it so that you're getting that extra push just as the wave meets you. The board needs to be heading down when the wave jumps up. Sometimes you won't need more than one paddle then jump up to your feet. I use that technique a lot, even with mid size boards. I can catch waves that I would never be able to catch by just paddling. The timing is critical, too early and it doesn't work, too late and the wave passes under you before you can get the board pointed back down.
Otherwise you have to get further on the nose and push down harder with your chest to keep the nose down and in the wave. Down side to this is the tendency to start pearling before you get into the wave. I learned this technique when I was much younger riding paipos and boogey boards. With paipos and boogeys you need to push the nose down hard to get onto some waves. So I hold the nose and push down hard and kick like a madman.
My boards get up to 3" in the middle, so I'm riding even thicker ones than you. Generally the PU short boards I have are about 2 5/8" to 2 3/4" thick, the EPS 3".
What I have found here is that a short board that usually works great in small surf will have too much foam or have too wide of a tail in solid overhead surf for high performance surfing. I talked to Keone Downing about this when I was getting boards from him. You can ride the boards, but you'll be adjusting your riding to make the board work. Unfortunately there's no magic all around one board except a high performance longboard. I'm not one of them, but that's what guys here will ride. One board except if you go out into 20+ then you bust out the big gun.