Scrubber w/ surform...

Gentleman - hope what I’m going to share is helpful to shaper. Anyway, I thought I’d share with ya my trusty ‘sureform’ techniques! For high spots or ridges after planing hold surform at about a 45 with the teeth facing you, and carefully scrub towards yourself ( backwards)… try varying the angles to get variable cut…dont use tons of pressure! Just light scrubbin until flush - move quik. Scrub down a ridge -go to the next…do ur entire flats this way. After you’ve done that - sand smooth.

For truing the outline, use a 45 to get it -within 1/16" of line …then use an almost five deg angle, or whatever angle it takes to get a smooth line. Once you’re real close - carefully sand with block to the line. Done. Again, always work backwards, or scrub foam away towards yourself. Pushing forward was no good. You get ample control pulling. Scrub away! Note: I’m working on pu foam. I don’t know what they’re using on eps? So these techniques work well on pu foam ! I’m just using a regular old surform.

I appreciate your new found passion. But you are kidding about the sureform, right?

Truing your outline with a sureform is a rookie move.  You true your outline with a planer. A sureform will not take the high and low spots out, all you will do with a sureform is blend the high n low spots into one smooth wobble.

Use the planer for everything if possible. Planers don’t lie.

Yeah, I actually used it. It’s like livin in the jungle where I’m at…they don’t like noise -no power tools etc… etc…I’m working on finding a shed or whatever…but ty for the heads up k!

Next week when I’m back, the plan is to use power tools when my housemate is gone. That’s about all I can do for now. But for sure I’m gonna use planer more. Thanks again.

I use a variety of different tools but the whole process boils down to trying to hit the outline I traced.

Most electric planers have a flat sole and are designed to plane a flat surface.  Using an electric planer can get tricky on the curvy sections of a template.  A ‘zero’ cut setting is no longer zero when cutting over a curved length of material.  Just use what works for you.  A surform + sanding block will work fine in a pinch… and likely with less risk of chewing things up in the curvy sections.  

Just pay attention to your outline trace.  Whatever tool you use, it’s all about removing foam until you reveal the shape hiding inside.

Here are a couple of examples of curved sole planers…

 

 

 


In my less than ample experience, a sanding block works way better than a sureform

Wood Sanding block wih 40grit glued on (not wrapped around) will work ok. Planer is best but can be tricky for a beginner.

 

For outlines I use a sanding block with 60 grit but the block is screwed to another piece of wood at 90* creating an L.  This way in addition to getting my outline correct I’m making the outline perfectly square to the bottom of the board.  Long strokes so you can feel what you are doing and make a fair curve…NO SCRUBBING.  Having your outline perfectly square to your desired outline makes the rest of the process much easier when it comes time to make your rail bands.

Gentlemen - thanks MUCH ! I think my method might be dated, but it gets me there nonetheless.

I sum it up by saying use whatever works for you -it’s your board.

Also, keep in mind living arrangements etc… what if you got a pissy uptight landlord etc…etc…you might have to resort to whatever hand tools you got. Good times!!!

Well, I do longer strokes on the straights…but when I get near the tail I tend to scrub…for noses and TAIL a flaring pull works best…Mako224 -good point, you don’t want to scrub in one spot as it could screw up the lines…another thing to do is to figure out what angles work best for whatever your doing. Varying your techniques I think is probably the best advice I could give. That way you know what works best for you.
One last thing to do is know when to call it a draw. Keep sanding try n for perfection -you might end up with a pencil! Not a surfboard.Hope this post, and all the great craftsmanship you guy’s show help each of us shaper grow and learn from eachother in the never ending quest in the Art of surfboard shaping and design -build on.- Jim

 

Damn right.

I like mako224’s deal of making a square sanding block with a 90 degree guide.

I learned to make what the boatbuilders call a Chinese torture board. Big piece of wood with floor sanding paper stapled to it, and handles attached. Usually dowels. About 6" wide and 18" long. Great for sanding flats and getting the bottom cleaned up right. Also good for tuning a hot coat.

My firstshape was done with a surform. Pretty ugly result. Since then, on the few boards I’ve shaped,  I avoided the surform at all costs. They have a use, but it’s limited and can get you in trouble.

Planer is the best.

Start doing it right in the beginning , and you will never have problems…just saying.

I have not used a planer ro true a outline on a foam board in over 30 years. I stated what I use to cut outlines before and was called “irresponsible” or something like that so won’t do it again. Do what works for you.

I’m irresponsible.  I Skilsaw the whole thing 1/8-1/4" strong, then 36grit on a 2" disk right angle die grinder for the stringer(s), then fresh 36grit formed tightly on a hard block to the line.  Easy to keep all the cuts plumb and it goes pretty fast.  

Skilsaw is a guaranteed way to keep the outline cut square to the bottom. Some guys use a handsaw, but that takes lots of practice.

I’ll have to try the skilsaw.  You using a worm drive for that or a more modern upright skilsaw?  I would think a worm drive would be better suited.

I use a handsaw and the block described above to finish it off.  I had an awesome antique fine tooth saw that was perfect for the task.  Unfortunately it got ruined in Sandy.  I have bought 3 hand saws since but haven’t found one I like.  All the modern hand saws are way to aggressive for my liking.

Dunno about anyone else, but I prefer the good old fashioned hand saw! It’s almost impossible to f’up as long as your able to cut a straight line. Plus give yourself a xtra 1/4" outside line and you’d have to be insecure to f’up the cut. Plus it feels great cutting lumber, cut n board and whatnot. Best of all-its safe!

Believe it or not, some of the finest shapers just use basic tools. Ofcourse other’s don’t. Use whatever you feel comfortable with-that way you will do a good job.

shapaholic You have the right idea as far as truing up your outline. Don’t use a planer for that. That is unless you want to fuck up your outline.

Da worm 

Hello Ace! Thanks for your .02. Dunno, but using a hand saw for me is just totally cool! I was a bit nervous as I haven’t cut any blank in yrs. That’s why I gave myself a xtra 1/8! Yrs back when I first dabbled w shaping board, well I was more relaxed -so using hand saw was easier… then I remember my Grandfather was building a studio apartment when I was 5. . Anyway, he asked me if I wanted to learn how to pound nails and cut wood. Well, I went along! And I still remember every tip he taught me. Yeah, use the handsaw! It’s all you really need. - Jim