Yelowing epoxy resin and logos

Hey everyone!!!

I’m facing some problems in the way to put the stikers on the surfboard.

Since I’m in Argentina and here the epoxy resin is not so good because it gets yellowed very fast. I must tint the resin to get a clear finish. So i’m tinting the glass and the hot coat resin with white tint and the snading it.

At this stage I have a complety white board. I’m putting the stikers in this stage with a peace of fibreglass ( with the logo sizes ) over and after this get dry i’m gloss coating the board with transparent resin. 

By doing this the board doesn’t get yellow very fast, since the gloss coat is veeeery thin.

The thing is that you can notice that the logos has a fibreglass over…

Is there something that I can improve in this process so i can get a perfect finish board? I don’t want to use PU resin and glass over epoxi. I want to have a 100% epoxy board.

thankssssss!!!

 

Hi guiyep,

if you have access to a Kinkos or similar place with a color laser printer, you can print your logos backwards on overhead transparency film. lay the film on wet epoxy and squeegee out any air bubbles.

When the resin cures pull off the film and the image is left stuck to the resin.

I always hot coated over the board after doing this to keep the image from getting scratched off.

There’s a trick trent, i did’nt know that one. I use vinyl-cut self adhesive stickers as a masking to paint logos on the sanded boards, This allows me to choose location and colour in relation to the artwork on a board, but means the design needs to be relatively simple. No tissue paper showing on dark colours or glass over the design is a plus though.

Thanks you everyone for the quick response!

You gave me a lot of new ideas!!! Thanks you really really much!

 

Trent, I’d like some clarification on this if possible - are you saying get it laser printed upward-facing (backwards) on the clear film they use for overhead projectors? You then put the film on the wet epoxy and pull it when it’s dry? Just like that?

Okay, so - how dry? Like when I would pull the tape or after its fully-cured? And how much epoxy? Should I be floating it or just enough to get out the bubbles? Am I doing this during my hotcoat or just painting some epoxy onto the board where the logo goesand treating this as it’s own step the way I would regular logos on a poly board? How bad of a ridge is left after peeling? Do I leave a flap not epoxied or does it peel easily?

Sorry, I’m about to do another epoxy board and ran into a nightmare of a learning experience with yellowing rice paper on an ultra-white pigmented board (pigmented lam and sanding coats) and running posca pens (didn’t realize you cant use water-based with epoxy - duh), and I don’t want to run into the same issues… I like the simplicity of your method

Instead of glass weave, you can use glass fleece (~30g/m2).

This is extremely light and hardly visible, but still gives some protection against scratching.

If you think about it, using 4oz glass to protect a logo against scratching is overkill.