oh... my vote would be on pre glass
but expand the flange to incorporate the grub screw holes... as the drawings show areas that could have some giant airbubbles ... if not used to installing pre glass
yeah. Pre-glass is my vote too. As foam-hack says, you will have to make sure the grub-screw holes have plastic all around them. Also the sandable ridge around the box need not be so wide at the top. Too much to sand. Then you need die-cut stickers/tape to cover them so no resin leakage. I think there would be a market for these (if injection molded) if you are so inclined...
Thanks for your input foamhack and Jamie. I've never seen a pre glass installation done, but now that you've told me stickers go on I know what to do with that top area. I wasn't sure if it was left open and you lamintaed around it or not - I'm stuck in the post glass installation mind set where you have a fin in the box to set your angle. OK that makes sense now.
I plan on completing one pre glass version and one post glass version, so there's no need to vote - you will get both options.
Injection moulding for any of the designs shown would be quite tricky to say the least. The shape of the internal area of the box is not conducive to tooling.
"Injection moulding for any of the designs shown would be quite tricky to say the least" - Not to mention cost prohibitive. Just getting the injection molds made is a serious investment. You'd have to sell a LOT of boxes to even break even. That's what's SO cool about 3D printing, the 1 off cost is affordable, all the work is in making the 3D file. And you've done the hard part (quite well I might add). For someone to send the file to a printer now and get boxes made for $50 is a huge breakthrough in prototyping. Before you'd have to invest 10's of thousands of dollars in molds and prototyping and then sell at volume to make the process even feasible. Now, a couple guys in OZ can knock out a prototype in a few weeks and graciously share the 3D file with guys around the world. All the buzz about 3D printing being a game-changer in manufacturing, this is exactly the process they describe. Stoked just to watch it unfold.
RDM, here is a Futures install video just to give you a sense of the process. May help guide your design -
Jump to 4:20 to skip the routing process and get right into the glassing:
Thanks lawless. That fills in the picture for me. I like how they use the reversible jig to cut the two different depths and shapes with the one depth setting on the router. The pre glass version of Surffoils box shown above is slightly wider than the Futures box as the screws on the side require it to be. But it looks like you could still use the Futures reversible jig and just redo the outer one that it "runs" in. You would have course have to fettle it a little by hand in the screw areas with some rolled up sandpaper as described by Surffoils earlier in the thread.
Rohan, box posted to you this morning.
You know how FCS have those little round recesses on the tabs for the screws ?
With the new Futures fins having the 'perforated' base, I lined up the screws to fit into the holes and hold the bottom beam of the base. It works the same with the Futures that have a solid bases as they have the same pattern of recesses. A simple solution.
Just letting you know were still working on this. Were trying to make it a very simple install, hopefully anyone could do it with a craft knife.
Taking advantage of the amazing abilities of the 3-D printers to create a strong box that's anchored into the foam.
And a few novel features that haven't been seen before. I'll post it up when Ive got the next prototype.
Been watching. Impressive stuff Brett...
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
Hi Bill, here's a teaser...
And after listening to Grasshoppers suggestion....
"would be good to get a lip on the box opening so you can just sand the boxes open post glass."
So we've done something similar.