With the growing use of 3D printing and improvements in the speed, cost, quality and material choice I thought it might be a good idea to get some open source files together that people could use.
The first one I will offer up is a fin base for people who want to make wooden single fins but find the base tedious and difficult to build. PM me if you want the file or if you have a website where you can post it for anyone to download.
In the coming weeks I will try and get around to looking at modelling a fin base that will hold an FCS fin and one that will hold a Futures fin.
Please remember that these will be untested designs, but I have done my best to design them as well as I can first time. If you find issues with any of them and can convince me that revisions are required then I will adjust the design accordingly.
Or for those who prefer to insert a 1/8" (3.2mm) sheet of ply or fibreglass as the fin support tab from beneath (as suggested on the Universal Fin System thread) you can have this one, which will probably be stronger (and certainly cheaper to print).
Or for those who prefer to insert a 1/8" (3.2mm) sheet of ply or fibreglass as the fin support tab from beneath (as suggested on the Universal Fin System thread) you can have this one, which will probably be stronger (and certainly cheaper to print).
I like this one more because it has a central piece that runs thru the whole height of the assembly.
What you insert could be ply, glassed ply or carbon fibre laminate over wood.
It then gives a 'like to like' bond to the surrounding material that becomes the fin blade.
Also good if you like your tab forward or at the back.
And its a great blank if have a hankering do do something totally different....know what I mean ?
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Are your designs intended to have the glassing stop at your base or have fiberglass cover the wood fin and the base? 9.2mm is the exact width of the box and won't allow for fiberglass to cover your base and still fit in the box. Not having glass cover the wood and base will be a spot of weakness.
Neither are designed for glass over the outside of the box. And you are correct, strength may be an issue. But until someone makes one and tests it we won't know.
It's easy enough to make variations which would be able to be glassed over if that's want you want. What sort of thickness would you like the base taken down to ? 7.2mm? Remember that the glassing will get tricky though when you transition say from the trailing edge of the fin on to the base with that bit of a step.
I have also made a version of the "insert" design which has a 4mm width slot for those of you who prefer metric width material.
Or if you prefer the reverse insertion method where you build the fin with the tab already in it, I have this (in 1/8" (3.2mm), 4mm and 6mm slot width versions).
Nice work RDM! RDM's model 1 insert style below, my 2-piece variant on top. Mostly machined from cedar, a couple mods by hand. RDM's fits nicely in the box on my board. -J
like
1
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
I build my base by hand then glass over the wood fin and base with 2x 6oz glass on both sides. I also account for a hotcoat over the base. Of course my numbers are going to be different than everyone else but I aim for something close to .30'' before I start glassing.
Thanks for the compliments Dave and Rohan. The mill does a nice job when I remember to push the right buttons. Rohan's piece is all him except I had to rotate it to add the slot and screw hole freehand since I did not want to write a second program. Mine keeps the mill running in the same plane but needs a little work on the pinning back together scheme.
Ben, I have a busted fin I would like to try these on too.
It's been fun reading the banter on these two threads. -J
like
0
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
2/ no ones jumped in and said its been done before.
The only part missing is the 80 or 90 emails between Rohan and I. But he's able to take a basic drawing and turn it into a real product. All credit to Rohan for making these 3-D product possible.
I put one of Chippy's hockey sticks as a ghost image into the last dev release of Finfoil about a week ago. Looking forward to the STL capable version, thanks for all the programming effort and for sharing it! Let me know if you need some help beta-testing.
-J
like
0
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Here's my first stab at a Futures version. Will need someone to confirm dimensions for me though as I don't have any Futures fins or boxes to measure - thanks lawless for the headstart.
I will load the rest of the designs into thingyverse in the coming weeks so they can be downloaded from there. If anyone 3D prints any of these designs please let me know if they work as expected or need revisions.
If you want to minimse the cost and 3D print just one fin base this design might be suitable. You could swap fins in and out of it as required.
No CAD model yet (will do that next week). Just build your fins with the appropriately shaped tab to drop in, push forward up against the slight undercut at the front and tighten up the grub screw at the back to secure the fin.
The idea for the hand sketch above is if you want to make fins that you can swap in and out of a standard fin box (FU) and only have to 3D print one fin base. Cheaper than 3D printing a fin base for each fin and permanently glueing/fibreglassing them together as for all the previous designs above (apart from the FCS and Futures design of course).
Rohan, nice drafting! I admire someone who can still pencil, ink, and letter.-J
I have been fiddling with the wood+FR4 longbox fin base. I made one with 1/8" (3.2mm) and one with 1/16" (1.6mm) FR4. The thicker one is heavy and barely deflects when bent, the thinner seem to have a nice weight and 'twang' to it, about 1/8" when I put my thumbs in the middle and fingers on the outsides and bent the outside down. The current tab is about 4" tall, 3 1/2" at the base, and 1 1/4" at the top with the back side being 90 degrees to the base and to the top and the leading angle is 60 degrees. The wooden base covers the lowest 7/8" of the tab. I think it would easier to incorporate the tab into a new raw fin that to retrofit, but it could still be useful for repairs if one cuts the tab down to maybe 1" tall past the base and makes a slot in the old foiled fin to accept the tab + enough resin and cloth to make the joint tight. The trick would be cutting the slot straight and keeping the fin square while the resin sets.
like
0
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Nice! I like the fact you're accounting for the print process and how extra material = extra $ to print. By trimming off excess, unneeded area in the base it's lowering the print cost.
I got the FCS adapter printed in ABS. It was $35US to get it printed, and it was done the same day I sent the file. It's in the mail and I should get it tomorrow. I'll post pics once I have it. What a rad process. Thanks RDM and Surffoils for getting this going.
Surffoils, have you installed your Universal Box yet?
I put the left and right boxes in a shortboard and gave it away to my cousin. I didnt tell him I made them so whatever report he comes back with is totally unbiased. He is a bit of a whiner though...
Mine are costing about the same in AU dollars but in a few years Im sure 3-D printers will be in a lot of homes and it will cost pennies to print.
Rohans is the real genius at all this CAD drawing / 3-D printing.
Just to make it easier for Rohan and so he isn't getting massive requests on links to his designs - we have put them all in one place so you can just go in and download each template whenever you need to print off.
Fit is perfect! Great work RDM. The FCS tabs fit snuggly in the adapter. I tried multiple fins and they all worked well. Some aftermarket fins were a bit tighter, but the FCS molded fins were perfect.
I put the adapter into numerous fin boxes. It was a REALLY tight fit, but it would go. I think with a light sanding on both sides it would be much easier to install and remove, but I wanted to test it in it's as-printed state to make sure it was workable.
I need to install the grub screws and a pin, but as printed, it works perfectly.
The work you guys are doing is exciting. Thanks. I only ride shortboards, so although I probably won't be needing a single fin adapter, I think it's cool.
Any interest in designing an adapter for FCS fins to fit in Futures boxes? I saw that a company here in CA that's doing it, but they want too much for the adapters, IMO. I've thought about this a lot and I think if you had a small screw into the bottom of the tab and a slot in the base of the adapter, you could still get fore/aft adjustment (you can't with the way the CA company designed theirs). The only problem would be that you'd have to drill small pilot holes in the bottom of your FCS tabs, which many people might not want to do. The other option would be to just make a really snug fit, like LokBox did with their Grip-its adapters.
The work you guys are doing is exciting. Thanks. I only ride shortboards, so although I probably won't be needing a single fin adapter, I think it's cool.
The work you guys are doing is exciting. Thanks. I only ride shortboards, so although I probably won't be needing a single fin adapter, I think it's cool.
Any interest in designing an adapter for FCS fins to fit in Futures boxes? I saw that a company here in CA that's doing it, but they want too much for the adapters, IMO. I've thought about this a lot and I think if you had a small screw into the bottom of the tab and a slot in the base of the adapter, you could still get fore/aft adjustment (you can't with the way the CA company designed theirs). The only problem would be that you'd have to drill small pilot holes in the bottom of your FCS tabs, which many people might not want to do. The other option would be to just make a really snug fit, like LokBox did with their Grip-its adapters.
Here's the F3 adapter sitting in a Futures box :
Great stuff here!
Curious if that adapter addresses the fact that Futures have cant built into the fin base while FCS has cant built into the boxes?
Bud, it looks like those adapters are from Surfinz F3 system, their box is built to account for the cant differences between fins. Wouldn't be too hard to make an adapter with pre-set cants though.
Check out the images in this thread for more clarification on how those adapters work:
Thanks for the feedback lawless. It looks like you are the first one to print any of the designs from this thread. It's good to hear that it's fitment is slightly tight in the box as it's much easier giving it a light sanding than having it slightly loose and needing to add material on.
lawless,those are the F3 adapters. They come with 6 degrees of cant built in. You can't secure an FCS fin just by dropping them into a Futures box, though. It needs a screw somewhere.
Would this be of interest to anyone? FCS fin base which you can add your wooden fin blank to and then foil.
Fin blank could be in two halves with appropriate routing, one piece with a slot or glued on pieces of suitable thickness in any configuration you desire.
I think that is a useful design, and could also be useful with a large single tab for the systems with a full length slot like Probox, Ausfinco, etc...
-J
like
0
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
This has been uploaded to thingiverse and sanded will have a link on his website soon. I have made two versions - one with a 3.2mm (1/8") fin support tab and the other with a 4mm.
237.5 mm (9 1/3") fin height (not including fin base) with a 16% thickness to chord length ratio (24 mm thick at base of the thickest part of the foiled fin surface). Fin is hollow to reduce weight and cost (with one supporting internal rib).
Top end of fin is solid material for the first 20 mm to allow hand reshaping of this area if desired.
I have scripts to automatically hollow fins designed with finFoil using a hexagonal structure.
However, due to the dissapointing lack of donations I chose to focus my free time on other projects that get more donations, so I can't justify my time to make this available through the web.
However, for the true swaylocks finFoil supporters (you should know yourself if you are one ;) ) I'm always happy to generate a hollowed STL for your design and add a base too, just contact me through PM.
Any hints what design software to use to have a crack at it?
I want to make a negative of a fin base, a split mould, to allow accurate reproduction using materials not available for 3d printing. In other words, use cheap materials to print a mould, then cast or laminate into the mould.
OpenScad is a bit tricky, but I think I'll give it a go as it's free and works in Linux.
With the growing use of 3D printing and improvements in the speed, cost, quality and material choice I thought it might be a good idea to get some open source files together that people could use.
The first one I will offer up is a fin base for people who want to make wooden single fins but find the base tedious and difficult to build. PM me if you want the file or if you have a website where you can post it for anyone to download.
In the coming weeks I will try and get around to looking at modelling a fin base that will hold an FCS fin and one that will hold a Futures fin.
Please remember that these will be untested designs, but I have done my best to design them as well as I can first time. If you find issues with any of them and can convince me that revisions are required then I will adjust the design accordingly.
Please choose your printing material wisely also.
Capture7.JPG
Capture8.JPG
very very cool guys!
Or for those who prefer to insert a 1/8" (3.2mm) sheet of ply or fibreglass as the fin support tab from beneath (as suggested on the Universal Fin System thread) you can have this one, which will probably be stronger (and certainly cheaper to print).
Capture9.JPG
Capture10.JPG
I like this one more because it has a central piece that runs thru the whole height of the assembly.
What you insert could be ply, glassed ply or carbon fibre laminate over wood.
It then gives a 'like to like' bond to the surrounding material that becomes the fin blade.
Also good if you like your tab forward or at the back.
And its a great blank if have a hankering do do something totally different....know what I mean ?
Terrific CADwork Rohan !!
image.jpg
Brilliant.
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
RDM
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Are your designs intended to have the glassing stop at your base or have fiberglass cover the wood fin and the base? 9.2mm is the exact width of the box and won't allow for fiberglass to cover your base and still fit in the box. Not having glass cover the wood and base will be a spot of weakness.
Be well
Dave
Hi Dave.
Neither are designed for glass over the outside of the box. And you are correct, strength may be an issue. But until someone makes one and tests it we won't know.
It's easy enough to make variations which would be able to be glassed over if that's want you want. What sort of thickness would you like the base taken down to ? 7.2mm? Remember that the glassing will get tricky though when you transition say from the trailing edge of the fin on to the base with that bit of a step.
I have also made a version of the "insert" design which has a 4mm width slot for those of you who prefer metric width material.
Cheers
Rohan
great stuff Rohan !!
cheers for sharing this , I look forward to seeing some of the results , and hearing how they surf.
I currently have three or four old snapped single fins of my brother's lying around [did I show you , I forget ?] , that bases would be good for ...
I just need to find out , when he returns , if he has any plans for them , himself [you know me mate ... the fins [and boards ] recycler !!]
*************************************************** http://www.benchipper.blogspot.com.au/
Or if you prefer the reverse insertion method where you build the fin with the tab already in it, I have this (in 1/8" (3.2mm), 4mm and 6mm slot width versions).
Capture.JPG
Nice work RDM! RDM's model 1 insert style below, my 2-piece variant on top. Mostly machined from cedar, a couple mods by hand. RDM's fits nicely in the box on my board. -J
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Wow J !
Talk about taking the ball and running with it. Beautiful work.
Rohan,
I build my base by hand then glass over the wood fin and base with 2x 6oz glass on both sides. I also account for a hotcoat over the base. Of course my numbers are going to be different than everyone else but I aim for something close to .30'' before I start glassing.
jrandy,
Those look amazing. Nice work
Dave
FCS box adapter.
FCS1.JPG
FCS2.JPG
Thanks for the compliments Dave and Rohan. The mill does a nice job when I remember to push the right buttons. Rohan's piece is all him except I had to rotate it to add the slot and screw hole freehand since I did not want to write a second program. Mine keeps the mill running in the same plane but needs a little work on the pinning back together scheme.
Ben, I have a busted fin I would like to try these on too.
It's been fun reading the banter on these two threads. -J
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Yes Jim, the two threads have been quite unique,
1/ something actually NEW has been built
and
2/ no ones jumped in and said its been done before.
The only part missing is the 80 or 90 emails between Rohan and I. But he's able to take a basic drawing and turn it into a real product. All credit to Rohan for making these 3-D product possible.
Nice stuff guys!
I know it has been quite in finFoil land lately, but things are changing!
Soon it will be possible to easily share fin designs, visualize them in a web viewer and export to STL!
If we combine this with the magnificant bases you guys created, the way fins are built will change forever.
I'll keep you guys updated!
Hans
finFoil: free fin designing software
http://www.finfoil.io
https://www.instagram.com/finfoil/
https://app.finfoil.io
Hi Hans-
I put one of Chippy's hockey sticks as a ghost image into the last dev release of Finfoil about a week ago. Looking forward to the STL capable version, thanks for all the programming effort and for sharing it! Let me know if you need some help beta-testing.
-J
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Good news, Hans. I've been waiting years for this export facility. Now I gotta cut some gears for my CNC so I can do fine tolerance work.
Excellent stuff gentlemen.
Break barriers & knock down the doors...
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
That's what I call sharing the stoke. Very generous. Thank you even tho I don't have the computer skill at this time to do anything with it. Mike
Here's my first stab at a Futures version. Will need someone to confirm dimensions for me though as I don't have any Futures fins or boxes to measure - thanks lawless for the headstart.
I will load the rest of the designs into thingyverse in the coming weeks so they can be downloaded from there. If anyone 3D prints any of these designs please let me know if they work as expected or need revisions.
FUTURES1.JPG
FUTURES2.JPG
If you want to minimse the cost and 3D print just one fin base this design might be suitable. You could swap fins in and out of it as required.
No CAD model yet (will do that next week). Just build your fins with the appropriately shaped tab to drop in, push forward up against the slight undercut at the front and tighten up the grub screw at the back to secure the fin.
fin_base_proposal.JPG
Is that an adapter for using other fins in an FU box RDM?
I like the idea of an all-around base adapter for use in FU boxes.
More innovation...
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
The idea for the hand sketch above is if you want to make fins that you can swap in and out of a standard fin box (FU) and only have to 3D print one fin base. Cheaper than 3D printing a fin base for each fin and permanently glueing/fibreglassing them together as for all the previous designs above (apart from the FCS and Futures design of course).
Rohan, nice drafting! I admire someone who can still pencil, ink, and letter.-J
I have been fiddling with the wood+FR4 longbox fin base. I made one with 1/8" (3.2mm) and one with 1/16" (1.6mm) FR4. The thicker one is heavy and barely deflects when bent, the thinner seem to have a nice weight and 'twang' to it, about 1/8" when I put my thumbs in the middle and fingers on the outsides and bent the outside down. The current tab is about 4" tall, 3 1/2" at the base, and 1 1/4" at the top with the back side being 90 degrees to the base and to the top and the leading angle is 60 degrees. The wooden base covers the lowest 7/8" of the tab. I think it would easier to incorporate the tab into a new raw fin that to retrofit, but it could still be useful for repairs if one cuts the tab down to maybe 1" tall past the base and makes a slot in the old foiled fin to accept the tab + enough resin and cloth to make the joint tight. The trick would be cutting the slot straight and keeping the fin square while the resin sets.
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Thanks Jim. Would be good to see what you've come up with. Do you need a design done with a 1/16" slot?
Here's the CAD to go with the sketch.
FinBoxBaseInsertMultiple_ISO_VIEW.JPG
FinBoxBaseInsertMultiple_DRAWING.JPG
Hi Rohan, thanks. I don't need CAD at the moment. Here's a shot of my STL and the glue-up so far.-J
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Futures design is now confirmed and available.
FinBaseFutures_ISO_VIEW.JPG
FinBaseFutures_DRAWING.JPG
Great works Rohan. !
Nice! I like the fact you're accounting for the print process and how extra material = extra $ to print. By trimming off excess, unneeded area in the base it's lowering the print cost.
I got the FCS adapter printed in ABS. It was $35US to get it printed, and it was done the same day I sent the file. It's in the mail and I should get it tomorrow. I'll post pics once I have it. What a rad process. Thanks RDM and Surffoils for getting this going.
Surffoils, have you installed your Universal Box yet?
I put the left and right boxes in a shortboard and gave it away to my cousin. I didnt tell him I made them so whatever report he comes back with is totally unbiased. He is a bit of a whiner though...
Mine are costing about the same in AU dollars but in a few years Im sure 3-D printers will be in a lot of homes and it will cost pennies to print.
Rohans is the real genius at all this CAD drawing / 3-D printing.
Hey All
Just to make it easier for Rohan and so he isn't getting massive requests on links to his designs - we have put them all in one place so you can just go in and download each template whenever you need to print off.
http://sanded.com.au/3d_fin_boxes_28.html
With Rohan designs we will just continue to add them to this link- so they are all in one place and easy to find for everyone
www.sanded.com.au
THANKS!
I put it in my favorites.
Not in a position to do anything with all this great stuff right now, but soon I hope...
Got my FCS adapter base. Printed in ABS for $35US
Fit is perfect! Great work RDM. The FCS tabs fit snuggly in the adapter. I tried multiple fins and they all worked well. Some aftermarket fins were a bit tighter, but the FCS molded fins were perfect.
I put the adapter into numerous fin boxes. It was a REALLY tight fit, but it would go. I think with a light sanding on both sides it would be much easier to install and remove, but I wanted to test it in it's as-printed state to make sure it was workable.
I need to install the grub screws and a pin, but as printed, it works perfectly.
3dprinted-fcs-base1-resized.jpg
3dprinted-fcs-base2-resized.jpg
3dprinted-fcs-base3-resized.jpg
3dprinted-fcs-base4-resized.jpg
3dprinted-fcs-base5-resized.jpg
3dprinted-fcs-base6-resized.jpg
The work you guys are doing is exciting. Thanks. I only ride shortboards, so although I probably won't be needing a single fin adapter, I think it's cool.
Any interest in designing an adapter for FCS fins to fit in Futures boxes? I saw that a company here in CA that's doing it, but they want too much for the adapters, IMO. I've thought about this a lot and I think if you had a small screw into the bottom of the tab and a slot in the base of the adapter, you could still get fore/aft adjustment (you can't with the way the CA company designed theirs). The only problem would be that you'd have to drill small pilot holes in the bottom of your FCS tabs, which many people might not want to do. The other option would be to just make a really snug fit, like LokBox did with their Grip-its adapters.
Here's the F3 adapter sitting in a Futures box :
Single fins work on shortboards too. :-)
Great stuff here!
Curious if that adapter addresses the fact that Futures have cant built into the fin base while FCS has cant built into the boxes?
Bud, it looks like those adapters are from Surfinz F3 system, their box is built to account for the cant differences between fins. Wouldn't be too hard to make an adapter with pre-set cants though.
Check out the images in this thread for more clarification on how those adapters work:
http://www.swaylocks.com/comment/406742#comment-406742
Also, check out the Universal Fin System thread, some 3D printed boxes in there that will accept FCS, FCS2 and Futures:
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/universal-fin-system
Thanks for the feedback lawless. It looks like you are the first one to print any of the designs from this thread. It's good to hear that it's fitment is slightly tight in the box as it's much easier giving it a light sanding than having it slightly loose and needing to add material on.
lawless,those are the F3 adapters. They come with 6 degrees of cant built in. You can't secure an FCS fin just by dropping them into a Futures box, though. It needs a screw somewhere.
Would this be of interest to anyone? FCS fin base which you can add your wooden fin blank to and then foil.
Fin blank could be in two halves with appropriate routing, one piece with a slot or glued on pieces of suitable thickness in any configuration you desire.
FCSFinBase_1.JPG
Hi RDM-
I think that is a useful design, and could also be useful with a large single tab for the systems with a full length slot like Probox, Ausfinco, etc...
-J
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Yep. They would be easy enough to do - as well as a Futures version.
This has been uploaded to thingiverse and sanded will have a link on his website soon. I have made two versions - one with a 3.2mm (1/8") fin support tab and the other with a 4mm.
FCSFinBase_DRAWING_preview_featured.jpg
FCSFinBase_ISOVIEW_preview_featured.jpg
Hey All
The web page is up with PDF and links attached.
http://sanded.com.au/fcs_fin_base_35.html
www.sanded.com.au
237.5 mm (9 1/3") fin height (not including fin base) with a 16% thickness to chord length ratio (24 mm thick at base of the thickest part of the foiled fin surface). Fin is hollow to reduce weight and cost (with one supporting internal rib).
Top end of fin is solid material for the first 20 mm to allow hand reshaping of this area if desired.
You can download the file from here if you want to 3D print it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635451
I hope to get the finfoil program running and be able to create and upload some more conventional designs in the future.
RAKED CONNING TOWER FIN ISOMETRIC TRANSPARENT.jpg
RAKED CONNING TOWER FIN OUTLINE.jpg
RAKED CONNING TOWER FIN FOIL.jpg
Good work definately!
Have you seen this?
I have scripts to automatically hollow fins designed with finFoil using a hexagonal structure.
However, due to the dissapointing lack of donations I chose to focus my free time on other projects that get more donations, so I can't justify my time to make this available through the web.
However, for the true swaylocks finFoil supporters (you should know yourself if you are one ;) ) I'm always happy to generate a hollowed STL for your design and add a base too, just contact me through PM.
BTW here you can watch the fin in 3D: http://finfoil.io/s/r/j63wz
finFoil: free fin designing software
http://www.finfoil.io
https://www.instagram.com/finfoil/
https://app.finfoil.io
I can't see your FCS base RDM?!?!?!
The FCS base design should be here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:473403
Let me know if that doesn't work.
Great work!
Any hints what design software to use to have a crack at it?
I want to make a negative of a fin base, a split mould, to allow accurate reproduction using materials not available for 3d printing. In other words, use cheap materials to print a mould, then cast or laminate into the mould.
OpenScad is a bit tricky, but I think I'll give it a go as it's free and works in Linux.
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