rad. I always thought the twingle duo (whatever) made sense. its a step between a simmons and a single fin, and makes logical sense. Do they ride like that description?
The best ride description I can give is the same from other people that have ridden twingles: it feels like a single fin but 'better/grip-ier". This is the third twingle I've made but it's the first one that wasn't a conversion from a thruster. I haven't ridden it yet, no waves. :(
Not sure my ghetto image embed is going to work but pretty sure it's clickable. This'll be #8 for me. 5'7" ish, 19.5" wide, probably gonna be 2.25" ish thick. 3rd iteration of my "kinda fat but still performance-y shortboard" type of thing. This one gains some width but also overall outline curve. It'll gain a more continuous rocker and more tail rocker. I think my rocker along the rails in the mid section and front last time was too flat. I also cut a deep single and that ends up being a bit unruly when the waves have power, so this will have more mild single to flat. It's still going to be relatively thin with pretty hard shortboardy rails with a low apex. I'm trying to understand exactly how thin I can go without making it ridiculous in the winter. I only weigh 120lbs, probably a few more with a 5mm on. I like thin with a flat deck rather than having an extreme deck crown to get rails I can actually sink. I don't really mess with total volume numbers but the predecessor has to be like 25 or 26L maybe? I blade the fuck out of my tails, to the point where it barely fits the futures box.
This is the last one, which was creamsicle flavored. The new one will be pink pigment, orange tint and maybe I'll throw in some white or purple for a sherbert look.
We are getting ready to glass a board, glassing stands are outside, under an overhang, during a rain, holding up the 13'-9" Blake replica.
The available shaping stands inside the garage still have nice padding and are too wide to allow wrapping the rails without issues.
I knocked together some scrap wood adaptors. Board is now almost 5" [125mm] higher off the ground, about elbow height for me, and there is room for a lap and squeegee.
I will probably wrap plastic around it all to keep resin off the padding and cloth on the shaping parts, already slobbered them once fixing the rrails.
Lol for sure I'm gonna do that to my shaping rack when it's glassing time. Way easier than converting it. Nice post.
Edit: Went for the ghetto glassing rack. Real happy with this lam. The carbon is actually pretty straight, it just looks wavy because of the way the white resin kinda whited it out a bit in some spots. This was pink and white pigments with orange tint. Had extra carbon and went for the tail patches.
Shaped my first board almost two years ago. This is #10 and the first time I felt like I was beginning to understand how outline/rocker/bottom contours/fins all work together.
Trying to shape is probably one of the best decisions I ever made. I have no fantasies about ever making money doing it, but it totally changed the way I think about surfing, in the best way.
This one is 9'0" x 23" x 3". I'm 6'8", 215lbs with size 13 feet so this is basically a mid length for me. Tried it out for the first time this morning in terrible waves (crowded, textured, walled, wind swell) and it felt great. I didn't have to think about where to stand, or when to turn, the board just went.
I don't post much but I read a lot. It's fun to go over the same threads that I read when I was researching for my first board now that I'm ten boards in. I feel like I understand things differently, and probably will read the same threads different again for board #100.
Cheers to being able to make something you're proud of, while still having much more to learn. Thanks, sways. I'd be happy to share what I think makes this board work well, since I've learned so much here, if anyone is interested.
In the works at the moment I have this forward swept Balsa/Paulownia cored single fin with a 13% thickness to chord ratio and flat winglet tip for optimum efficiency.
Forward sweep should provide higher angles of attack before stalling, and better stall characteristics - stalls at the root before the tip and water flow will move upward toward the bottom of the board, rather than downward, as it stalls.
Due to the inherently less stable nature of such a design I have pushed the thickest part of the foil a little more rearward than usual to help try and minimise this tendency toward instability and to dampen the sharper response down.
The boards I will use this in are all very neutral/stable, so I'm expecting this fin to liven them up.
First time ever splitting up a blank and putting stringers in, holy crap what an adventure! I tried using my skilsaw but it was nowhere close to providing a deep enough cut, I also had a tough time clamping my straight edge to run the saw against and didn't feel really confident with that set up.
I ended up using a hack saw blade and cut it by hand, yes completely insane but I saw another poster on here pull it off. I took my time going real slow, constantly checking my lines top and bottom, but had some wobbles along the way. I trued everything up with a sanding block as best as I could checking over and over all four mating surfaces for what seemed forever. Man this would have been so much easier with a bandsaw and a jointer or even a saw with enough depth.
After tracing and cutting out my two additional stringers of cedar I finally glued the center section of the board with a ton of weights on a nice flat surface on some saw horses. I then glued up the outer pieces one side at a time with some clamps, tie downs, bungies and some rope haha. The GG was a total mess to work with and of course I didn't wear gloves. The board looked kinda bad and I thought I had some gaps and wasn't sure if I screwed up.
To my surprise after I skinned the top and bottom of the blank I didn't have any gaps and my glue lines actually came out pretty good! The biggest problem for me is that it's a real pain in the ass to shape an 8 foot board in the 9 foot little room in my garage. With the blank pushed up against the wall I can barely sneak around the nose or tail sucking in my gut lol to get to the other side of the board.
Shaping multiple stringers was interesting, the cedar planes really well but I did have a tough time getting them down flush and even on both sides without tearing the foam too much for the final sanding. This is where some nice hand planes would help but I finally got mine dialed in after a bit. It's a whole different ball game with two offset stringers out on the rail, getting the final shape I wanted, and making sure they're not proud of the foam.
The other issue I had was finishing where the stringers exit on the rails without having a hump there and maintaining the rail shape, that was real challenging. I whittled away with my hand plane taking my time but the best thing that worked for me was taping along the stringer and using a double A battery wrapped with a piece of sandpaper to take the wood down below the foam and then carefully sanding the foam back down.
Much respect to the pros or anyone that does this often, it was a lot of extra work and not having the correct tools and space made it a bit difficult. All in all this was a fun project and something that I wanted to try with regards to the offset stringers, I'm glad I did it. I've done cut laps before but this was the first time using UV and it worked out pretty well that I only needed a thin pin line. I don't know if anyone does it this way but I use One Shot Lettering Enamel right over the sanded hot coat, super easy to work with and durable.
Looks rad, well done.
How do you find the twingles surf compared to a single of the same shape/length?
rad. I always thought the twingle duo (whatever) made sense. its a step between a simmons and a single fin, and makes logical sense. Do they ride like that description?
The best ride description I can give is the same from other people that have ridden twingles: it feels like a single fin but 'better/grip-ier". This is the third twingle I've made but it's the first one that wasn't a conversion from a thruster. I haven't ridden it yet, no waves. :(
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
BackyardBullard.com
<img src="https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/104214189_3166725036717917..." alt="board">
Not sure my ghetto image embed is going to work but pretty sure it's clickable. This'll be #8 for me. 5'7" ish, 19.5" wide, probably gonna be 2.25" ish thick. 3rd iteration of my "kinda fat but still performance-y shortboard" type of thing. This one gains some width but also overall outline curve. It'll gain a more continuous rocker and more tail rocker. I think my rocker along the rails in the mid section and front last time was too flat. I also cut a deep single and that ends up being a bit unruly when the waves have power, so this will have more mild single to flat. It's still going to be relatively thin with pretty hard shortboardy rails with a low apex. I'm trying to understand exactly how thin I can go without making it ridiculous in the winter. I only weigh 120lbs, probably a few more with a 5mm on. I like thin with a flat deck rather than having an extreme deck crown to get rails I can actually sink. I don't really mess with total volume numbers but the predecessor has to be like 25 or 26L maybe? I blade the fuck out of my tails, to the point where it barely fits the futures box.
This is the last one, which was creamsicle flavored. The new one will be pink pigment, orange tint and maybe I'll throw in some white or purple for a sherbert look.
<img src="<img src="https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/p720x720/14124477_1177969..." alt="board">" alt="board">
Boards shaped: 7
Nice to hear from the good Dr.!
Not so much to see here...
We are getting ready to glass a board, glassing stands are outside, under an overhang, during a rain, holding up the 13'-9" Blake replica.
The available shaping stands inside the garage still have nice padding and are too wide to allow wrapping the rails without issues.
I knocked together some scrap wood adaptors. Board is now almost 5" [125mm] higher off the ground, about elbow height for me, and there is room for a lap and squeegee.
I will probably wrap plastic around it all to keep resin off the padding and cloth on the shaping parts, already slobbered them once fixing the rrails.
jrandy_stand13.jpg
http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J
Lol for sure I'm gonna do that to my shaping rack when it's glassing time. Way easier than converting it. Nice post.
Edit: Went for the ghetto glassing rack. Real happy with this lam. The carbon is actually pretty straight, it just looks wavy because of the way the white resin kinda whited it out a bit in some spots. This was pink and white pigments with orange tint. Had extra carbon and went for the tail patches.
unnamed.jpg
Boards shaped: 7
Looks good, any pics of the tail? What's with the 08? Your sig says boards shaped: 7. I thought it might have something to do with that.
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
BackyardBullard.com
Wanted to share my latest:
Shaped my first board almost two years ago. This is #10 and the first time I felt like I was beginning to understand how outline/rocker/bottom contours/fins all work together.
Trying to shape is probably one of the best decisions I ever made. I have no fantasies about ever making money doing it, but it totally changed the way I think about surfing, in the best way.
This one is 9'0" x 23" x 3". I'm 6'8", 215lbs with size 13 feet so this is basically a mid length for me. Tried it out for the first time this morning in terrible waves (crowded, textured, walled, wind swell) and it felt great. I didn't have to think about where to stand, or when to turn, the board just went.
I don't post much but I read a lot. It's fun to go over the same threads that I read when I was researching for my first board now that I'm ten boards in. I feel like I understand things differently, and probably will read the same threads different again for board #100.
Cheers to being able to make something you're proud of, while still having much more to learn. Thanks, sways. I'd be happy to share what I think makes this board work well, since I've learned so much here, if anyone is interested.
8B70A979-56D2-428E-9F46-8BBB1D02F9E0.jpeg
In the works at the moment I have this forward swept Balsa/Paulownia cored single fin with a 13% thickness to chord ratio and flat winglet tip for optimum efficiency.
Forward sweep should provide higher angles of attack before stalling, and better stall characteristics - stalls at the root before the tip and water flow will move upward toward the bottom of the board, rather than downward, as it stalls.
Due to the inherently less stable nature of such a design I have pushed the thickest part of the foil a little more rearward than usual to help try and minimise this tendency toward instability and to dampen the sharper response down.
The boards I will use this in are all very neutral/stable, so I'm expecting this fin to liven them up.
Forward Swept Fin 1.jpg
Forward Swept Fin 2.jpg
First time ever splitting up a blank and putting stringers in, holy crap what an adventure! I tried using my skilsaw but it was nowhere close to providing a deep enough cut, I also had a tough time clamping my straight edge to run the saw against and didn't feel really confident with that set up.
I ended up using a hack saw blade and cut it by hand, yes completely insane but I saw another poster on here pull it off. I took my time going real slow, constantly checking my lines top and bottom, but had some wobbles along the way. I trued everything up with a sanding block as best as I could checking over and over all four mating surfaces for what seemed forever. Man this would have been so much easier with a bandsaw and a jointer or even a saw with enough depth.
After tracing and cutting out my two additional stringers of cedar I finally glued the center section of the board with a ton of weights on a nice flat surface on some saw horses. I then glued up the outer pieces one side at a time with some clamps, tie downs, bungies and some rope haha. The GG was a total mess to work with and of course I didn't wear gloves. The board looked kinda bad and I thought I had some gaps and wasn't sure if I screwed up.
To my surprise after I skinned the top and bottom of the blank I didn't have any gaps and my glue lines actually came out pretty good! The biggest problem for me is that it's a real pain in the ass to shape an 8 foot board in the 9 foot little room in my garage. With the blank pushed up against the wall I can barely sneak around the nose or tail sucking in my gut lol to get to the other side of the board.
Shaping multiple stringers was interesting, the cedar planes really well but I did have a tough time getting them down flush and even on both sides without tearing the foam too much for the final sanding. This is where some nice hand planes would help but I finally got mine dialed in after a bit. It's a whole different ball game with two offset stringers out on the rail, getting the final shape I wanted, and making sure they're not proud of the foam.
The other issue I had was finishing where the stringers exit on the rails without having a hump there and maintaining the rail shape, that was real challenging. I whittled away with my hand plane taking my time but the best thing that worked for me was taping along the stringer and using a double A battery wrapped with a piece of sandpaper to take the wood down below the foam and then carefully sanding the foam back down.
Much respect to the pros or anyone that does this often, it was a lot of extra work and not having the correct tools and space made it a bit difficult. All in all this was a fun project and something that I wanted to try with regards to the offset stringers, I'm glad I did it. I've done cut laps before but this was the first time using UV and it worked out pretty well that I only needed a thin pin line. I don't know if anyone does it this way but I use One Shot Lettering Enamel right over the sanded hot coat, super easy to work with and durable.
image copy 4.jpg
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