The fin out rail turn foto by my pal Steve Bissell taken at Rincon.
It was a given for many years that the rider was Jeff Boyd, then a discussion ensued on FB that it is Kevin Sears. No clear conclsion was ever determined. Whoever it was, it is still a damn impressive pic and testimony to how important, fin, rail and bottom rocker are to a surfboard! ;-O
I'm trying to find the foto so I can copy it and post it here.....
We are in high gear now....... lots of activity, hopes 'n dreams.
The quad box test will allow us to explore quadramania more but also opens up the choice to run the board with varying main fin sizes supplemented by either 2+1 fins forward or behind the center fin desired. Those choices will deliver a looser more pivoting turn from the forward fin choice, or more posi-traction with 2+1 fins equal or behind the main (center) fin driver.
Shawn asked me for the quad option, and I decided to go ahead with this direction because it plays into the torsional flex off the panel vee due to the leverage positioning of the forward & rear quads. I'm not opposed to exploring that dynamic. Obviously it will be different from the center fin driving positions we are playing with.
I'm currently designing two different types of fins for the center fin positions. The current status quo fin out there is stiffer than what I want, which has me refoiling them for flexier tips than what is currently available. I don't accept the claim that the Greenough's and some other "flex" fins will naturally "break into the correct flex pattern" in six months or a year?!! The chord has changed since the early 70's and we could flex the tips 1/8 of an inch side to side with your little finger...... this is what worked then, and this is what I'm after for one of the new ones I'm designing.
Shawn reported in last night on the 7'2" quad/single test board:
"The board is off the richter scale! I knew it would be sick, but had no idea this unbelievable. The lines are like nothing I've ever taken before and the stoke factor is bursting out of my chest. No lack of speed either...f--k your mach 4, it's like Mach 6...if that's even a thing. Anyway, people are freaking on it, they don't even know what it is and they think they already want one. My wave, count, which is already ridiculously high, went up...? My back hurts from catching so many waves. I've almost got my round house grab rail cutty down, I'll have it soon, the speed off the V and the long rail line are going to take me about 4 more waves to figure it out. I used the Purple Greenough, I think the 9" right? The Shapers fin was too thick in the base and I'll need to sand it down to get it to fit down in the box. Anyway, I rode the Greenough in the middle yesterday and up all the way today. I liked it in the Middle so far a little better because I had a little more leeway to step back (like I'm use to) and recover, then to remember I need to surf up in the middle.
My best waves were deep fades off the take off back to the curl, stepping up to the middle of the board with two feet, right next to each other, together, and then swooping back right, off the toe side, into one of the raddest swooping fade turn high-lines of my life! The board was freaking out my friend Miranda. She is like 51, wins most of the girls contest in her age group and is the best long boarder up here probably. She has one of your 8 ft single fins she takes to Mex. She was on a Wayne Rich Rehab board and killing it, but kept freaking over the lines I was taking...as was I. Anyway, she rips, so I put her on the board. She fell on her first wave, which made us both laugh because she doesn't wear a leash and never falls, just nose rides the shit out of waves with beauty. I told her to step up with both feet because that's what you told me. On her next waves, she friggen jumped to the middle of the board mid fade, then swooped the sickest down the line drive ever! In that moment, I figured the board out, watching her. She was freaking as she came to the channel where I was sitting, having taken the wave before. We laughed out loud and she was screaming in stoke!
Anyway, the journey has just begun. More soon".
S.T.
---------------------------------------------------------
This is the end result of taking a complete crap blob 10'10"x32"x5"" thick SUP blank with primitive rocker and making something that can make music. Finished out at 10'2"x27"x 4". and FOILED.
The advancements in foam coupled with refinements in the design make this a worthy project.
The foto of Midget in this link inspired me to explore the lineage then go beyond it.. to pick up where 'they' left off and keep on going so I can be part of that lineage versus yet another shaper copying something and calling it "retro". That foto is pinned up on my shaping room wall gloriously covered with foam dust.
The copycats pick up on something then rush to get in on it, the wannabes claim they came up with something original because they are legends in their own minds...... it hurts so bad, that need for them to be famous!
"The past and current (2010) shameless hijacking of history has prompted the above. As surfers age and the real facts slide into the foggy past it is easy for the snake oil salesmen to hoodwink the public at large with books, dvds, mag articals and 'pop out' festivals. Those, with little or no talent are able to capitalize on designs created by others, present themselves as gurus, then lend their names to mass produced 'poop outs'." - MF
To me a "surfboard designer" has to have at least shaped a surfboard.... maybe that's old era stuff, but I have a hard time swallowing people hijacking previously done stuff and claiming it as some f'n brainchild of theirs? Three dollar bills aren't worth sh=t.
I just remember Tracks as being something really special when a few rare copies would make their way to the States back in the day. There was also Surfing World Australia & Japan. I ended up writing an article for Surfing World Japan about Rincon & the Santa Barbara surfing scene, accompanied by beautiful Steve Bissell images. I think that was circa 1971,2 OR 3. They published it 2 issues. It was a big deal I guess.
. There was some mention of The Ranch, and a few guys heard wind of it and were miffed when a copy of the mag showed up at the old C.I. shop on Helena Avenue...... but since they couldn't read Japanese, it was hard for them to really lodge any kind of complaint!
That was back in the days that the surfing magazines had real impact with articles like "The High Performers", Dora's cavorting about, and other such misadventures...
P.S. Hell, maybe those 2 Japan issues were Surfing Life? Can anyone clarify that there was a "Surfing World" mag?
These kind of comments on V8's are all over the place: Cyril Huddy mentioned you in a comment.Cyril wrote: "This is the board before coming to Hawaii! I emailed Bruce Fowler on my maiden voyage this morning but I'll let him read/edit if he decides to paste my message on this page. The best way I can explain how it surfed in a nutshell is this.
Paddles like a LB, catches waves like a 10' LB, turns like a 6'0 SB, speeds like bullet and I saved the best for last, trims/glides like a 22' OC-1!"
Cyril got an 8'2" all orange resin tint, polished finish. He lives in Waipahu (Oahu).
V8 is gaining momentum...... not that it ever needed to: the boards are ALL ABOUT HORSEPOWER and lots of it.
GG would approve..... as I have stated in previous Sways threads, George has always been about having the power to attain mach speeds..... maybe that's why it's called "G Force"..... ? Lol.
Just to clarify something: this ain't a George Greenough design..... inspired? Yes, design? NO.... this is a BF design in a parallel world to GG's.... his spoon had no vee, I've acknowledged and used his crowned tail outline for "turns from hell" that I was allowed to take a template of 46 years ago. Damn that's an old template! George carves out the foam from his tail sections and has a graduated glassing schedule from nose to tail.
In contrast, I keep the foam but minimize it while using some heady PLANE GEOMETRY intertwining center STRINGER, PANEL VEE, and my own distinct GLASSING SCHEDULE to attain TORSIONAL FLEX which is in keeping with my original design providing key features I call ROCKER ON DEMAND, AND TWIST OFF. My approach is more user friendly for the average stand up surfer because it is NOT a DISPLACEMENT HULL which are wonderful unto themselves, but develop what Marc Andreini describes as "terminal speed".
My design is a r-o-a-d-s-t-e-r with a big block engine.
I've always admired George's strength using those big JET FINS he used to paddle, er, more correctly, SWIM, his "NEUTRAL BUOYANCY" vehicle out to the line up....... I mean GG weighs all of about 145 lbs. sopping WET!
In contrast, this 6'2" is the latest & greatest test board that paddles like a...... uh oh, we've said that line b4!
Let's just say, this is a LOTTA board for its size of 6'2".... either competing with a longboard or it might even be considered an oversized kneeboard that you can stand up on.?
I have already had comments from users concerned about the boards maybe "going too fast"..... which is a wonderful compliment that I'm not fretting about..... in fact, this was my whole design intent in the first place!
I gotta ask you, do you really want a board to go slow in every day gutless small surf? I sure as hell don't!
Which would you take? ..... a board that goes too fast or too slow?
As a designer, I'll suggest you add more fins or go with bigger ones ..... after all, fins create drag so you have "directional stability"...... keyword: directional. Think about the earlier post from Cyrus in Hawaii: paddled like a ten footer and turned like a six footer with crazy speed, stoke blah blah...... not a bad problem to deal with eh? I think he has figured it out from the get go!
Here are just a few options you can play with if so inclined...... HAVE FUN!
Footnote: The Greenough Stage VI (6) fins pictured here have initially proven too 'positive' (stiff) in small surf. To date 8-1/2" to 9.75" Greenough Stage IV-A and flexy 10" Alex Knost fins have worked well in nearly all sizes of V8's. Start with your fin at least 10" up from the tail but better at 12" up then inch back a little at a time if needed. The boards ride better from a forward position.... they are NOT TAIL RIDERS.... fin forward, rider forward.... if the board feels squirrley, you are standing too far back!
Shane Voelker
12:12 PM (2 hours ago)
to me
Hi Bruce,
The board was amazing today down at San O. I had the 8.5" fin all the way forward. It was a little squirrelly at first. Still caught a ton of waves and it was fast. See stats. Moved it back an inch for tomorrow. I let a friend try it and he couldn't believe how fun it was. Hope I sold another one for you. Let me know if you think I should have a 9" fin. Thanks!
Attachments area
Preview attachment image1.PNGimage1.PNG
From left to right: 8'6" extra stocker , 8'0" headed to Mollusk SF, 7'6" ..Mollusk SF, 7'4" EPS Custom Mollusk SF, 7'4" Wave Front Ventura, 7'0" Mollusk SF, 6'4" Extra stock. Not shown 7'11", 7'6" & 7.2" for Wave Front Ventura.
Just think if you were Daniel Breustedt in Frankfurt, Germany, nervously awaiting arrival of his 2 new BF boards (go to & a step up 6'8" RP) for his planned surf safari leaving this week end.
If only surfboards could talk! They would still be wondering why they had to go to IST (Istanbul) before finding their new home and starting a surf stoked adventure!
---------------------------------------
Kargo DetaylarıOriginDestinationLAXFRA
Taşıma DetaylarıOriginDestinationPiecesWeightDate / Hour FlightFinal SituationLAXIST11507.08.2015TK 00101 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 07 August from LAX to IST.
1 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was prepared for loading on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was booked on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August at LAX
OriginDestinationPiecesWeightDate / Hour FlightFinal SituationISTFRA11509.08.2015TK 15931 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 09 August from IST to FRA.
1 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was prepared for loading on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was booked on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August from null at IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August at LAX
As much as you can try, sh-t happens. Esp. when you are sending boards all over the world.
Got this email this morning:
"
Dear All!
I picked the shipment up this morning and unfortunately, as you can see in the pictures from my cellphone camera, there is a minor damage on the tail of one of the boards. The boards were nicely packed with lots of foam and bubble wrap, and I am not sure how this happened... No big deal, but I thought it would be better to let you know!
I will be offline and on vacation for the next two weeks, but I will reply after that.
Cheers
Daniel
We are gathering results in crap surf until some 'real waves' decide to grace our coast........ using many different fin combos in the 6'2" so we know what works and what doesn't. Wave count & water time is the only thing that counts in this equation:
the lastest feedback:
Rode the 6'2 in more small waves all weekend, but with 4 fins in 2ft lined up little peelers. Now let me explain: rode the K2 keels with the small inset fins from the Tyler Warren Quad set. I've ridden that combo on another similar size board and it was great. You'd think it's too much fin, but in reality, it works so well because it basically makes this sort of super keel to help the super wide board have drive, especially when needing to get the back rail line engaged more for driving off the back 1/4 of the board when trying to pump. Moreover, because the tail is so wide and the ins are moved up so far, there is no issue with drag whatsoever. The board rode very much like a skateboard with new age super carvey trucks. The benefit in small waves, especially when you need to clear some foam sections, is that you have increased drive from the quad fins in conjunction with the rail line, however, you don't at all take away from the real personality of the V bottom board, which wants to surf with sweet trimming speed and transfer from rail to rail with 70's style that is tripping out everyone in the line up. I can't tell you how many people over a short two week period have said, "dude, that board looks so sick! I Haven't seen anything like it and your style is tripping me out, it looks so fresh and fun and easy...in a relaxing but stoking me out way. Who shapes those? Where can I get one?
Here's a statement from another Sways thread called "Hansen Master Powerflex" that is a classic representation of the sentiment from many surfers circa 1967, 68 and 69 after experimenting with the cavalcade of rapid fire surfboard designs that spun off into space starting with the introduction of the v bottoms:
I have seen this board in person and can say it is one fine surf craft! It always amazes me how refined the boards of the late 60's were. They were starting to really dial it in then that damn v-bottom had to come out.
It's called a "Stinger" circa 1973. Ben Aipa was inspired by an old design some of the beachboys were riding on the South Shore and decided to give it a go. The sting allows the boards to pivot sharply which proved ideal for surfers like Larry Bertlemann, Buttons Kahuiokalani, amd Mark Liddell to surf Kaisers Bowl with the design.
Just wanted to let you know that my new 5-10 winged pintail is hands down one of the best boards I have ever owned. We went through a flat spell after I picked her up and I only got to surf her once until last week when we finally got hit with back to back swells. The board performs exactly as desired and is the perfect compliment to my 5-6.
I have mostly surfed it as a quad and that seems to be working well though plan on playing around with different fin options soon.
I like this thread, check it almost every day. I see these boards at Topanga and Malibu, I almost always ask, and find that most guys that have them are really stoked on them.
Actually it will be 10'2"...... he wants a ton of float for under shoulder high surf............. it's a V8 lean machine & I explained to him to scale it up with the correct curve it will be close to 27" wide! He doesn't want a SUP recessed handle slot so I guess he will be carrying it Endless Summer style.
It is NOT an SUP, but someone could sure ride it that way if they wanted to.
The width & thickness demanded me getting a SUP blank from U.S. Blanks (he doesn't want EPS).
It's going to be a lot of mowing.......
I'm tired already!
The V8's are gaining momentum with a stack of orders for them from all over....
Ran into him today, he sez he sold it cuz it had too much float! But he got 90% of what he paid, and said he ordered another custom, so I don't think he's upset about it. It is, after all, what he asked for ! :-)
Actually it will be 10'2"...... he wants a ton of float for under shoulder high surf............. it's a V8 lean machine & I explained to him to scale it up with the correct curve it will be close to 27" wide! He doesn't want a SUP recessed handle slot so I guess he will be carrying it Endless Summer style.
It is NOT an SUP, but someone could sure ride it that way if they wanted to.
The width & thickness demanded me getting a SUP blank from U.S. Blanks (he doesn't want EPS).
It's going to be a lot of mowing.......
I'm tired already!
The V8's are gaining momentum with a stack of orders for them from all over....
Ran into him today, he sez he sold it cuz it had too much float! But he got 90% of what he paid, and said he ordered another custom, so I don't think he's upset about it. It is, after all, what he asked for ! :-)
THAT'S the problem with making something you aren't fully into! I told him it was way overkill and suggested some other ways to go.... he was vehemently against EPS smaller version for float etc. I shaped that "G.D." thing out of an immense blob of an SUP blank and gave it a good foil and scaled it up so Godzilla or King Kong could ride it. He doesn't weigh as much as a Sumo wrestler..... not even close. He told me he was 235 lbs or thereabouts and that he NEEDED that kind of size and float.
Ok, so I guess 90% of what he wanted is pretty good, isn't it? Maybe not, maybe the 10% will end my career as a shaper.
You just never know in this business.
Maybe I can announce my retirement before I'm fired........ Aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeee! :-O
Haha, he's still rocking that v machine he's got, so I'd say that still qualifies him as a happy customer. Got $700 in the parking lot for that board slightly used, that's pretty good I'd say.
"The mistake was mine. The lesson cost me only $180 and my time. I harbor no bad feelings.
However, maybe you'll cut me a better deal on my next SVM".
--------------------------- Not your mistake but "cut me a deal on the next one"....... now we are back to business as usual in the world of surfboards... lol.
Huck, believe me, doesn't bother me in the least. Here is his further explantation replied to me today while I camp out for 12 days in my place in Cabo:
"Yeah. I sold it to a guy last Sunday in the Topanga parking lot after my second go out".
"It paddled, it caught waves but it was uncontrollable.
I have a journeyman shaper kid making me a traditional looking 10.4 single fin.
I'll be wanting a new SVM next year".
Best regards,
GD
My previous ranting has been edited to PG level:
V8 V Bottoms are NOT a displacement hull or tail riding longboard. If you try to tail ride them they will be squirrley. Control comes from pushing the fin forward & moving forward. The design was intended that way and many people are digging them for the very reason that they do provide a different experience from the norm. I specifically kept the ability to spin out intact, which was viewed as a "problem" with the early designs back in '67. By going back in time, then continuing to develop, improve, and refine the design from that point on.... so it could possess greater capability, I feel I am honoring and furthering the lineage versus just merely copying something we shaped back then. I said a few times sonehere along the line, it was Midget's and some other photographs that inspired this current design jag I'm on. That speaks volumes for the power an image can invoke.
I wanted to retain that ability of slippage or drift, as was one of the original comments Midget made about his first v bottom. and the fin he designed for that board. My intent is to enable good surfers to use that as a tool to further their surfing on this unique design. If you want posi-taction, you are turning closer to center of the board with the fin positioned a foot or more up from the tail with a minimum of 10" for nearly all the sizes to enable the boards to pivot carve while burying the rail deeper into the water. As the rider ges the board wired, he/she can fudge their foot position back further and there will be more drift..... to the point that a good surfer can powerslide the board turns or cutbacks, and even perform a controlled spin out. Honestly, people that don't get the design intent, shouldn't even ride them. I'm not gonna make these with a standard tri fin thurster fin configuration or a single fin box set further back toward the tail because I don't believe they will even work. A quad is a different matter and the feedback so far has been very good along with the single fin option.
For that reason, I'm offering them as single & 4+1's. Anyone wanting to ride the 4+1's as a 2+1 is welcome to play with them. If you want a looser 2+1 put the outrigger fins up front, for more positive put them in the rear set of boxes. The boards are meant to play with different variations of fins, and as intended, regardless of the fin setup, everyone has remarked at how FAST the boards are and how EASY they are to turn "even with that wide tail". All of that was, and is, the intent of the design. If you want to pose, and noseride, and swing the board off the tail, go get a long board, that's not, nor ever has been, a V Bottom.
In the meantime, I am very fortunate that more and more guys are recognizing and seeking out what I'm making to add to their quivers. The pix here are a couple Zack Howard, a former Malibu local turned Maui resident sent to me with an order for a 6'10" he can do cheater fives at Honolua Bay.... his wish is my command! He's shown here doing one tow in, one paddlie in, and a couple cover photos of his past when living in Cali. I love making boards for surfers from all skill sets ranging from guys like Zack to beginners looking for their first stoke.
Sorry Bruce didn't mean to hit a nerve, the guy was not dissing you at all, just saying the board wasn't working for him, but like you say, he didn't give it much of a chance. I was hoping to get a chance to see the board, but maybe it will show up with the new owner, sounds like it ended up with someone who is stoked on it, so its all good.
I get ya.... two times out and judgement passed...... you're s'posed to turn them from a forward position..... that has always been the description of this design and I thought the guy wanted the design as originally intended.
Back in 1967 it was about going shorter, so why in hell should I go backwards by offering this design as a long board?
We were lopping off one and two feet of beautiful refined longboards in a quest for higher performance. The smaller they got, the easier they turned. That is exactly why the race from long to short resulted in the design never being around long enough to ge refined & gain traction. I went from 9'8" to 9'3" to 7'11" to 7'4" to 5'6" all in less than 11 months.... many guys did the same. We were moving at lightning speed in the name of total commitment and high performance. Tune in, turn on, drop out. Burn your bra, burn your draft card, make love not war, have you ever been experienced?
Well, I have.
So in the future, I'll just say no........ can I do it? Sure, I'm fully capable of shaping just about anything you can imagine, does that mean I will do it..?..... negatory. At the end of the day, it's more about satisfaction for me than any amount of dinero.
My only motivation to shape and design surfboards is passion.
Thank god the vast majority of feedback is like below:
Dave
8:50 PM (23 hours ago)
to me
Hi Bruce. Was able to get the new board out today, very fun! Surfs so much different than my stoker, set it up as a quad, I've never tried one before. The thing is nimble, cut backs on a dime, its quick and gets around sections easily, gets vertical snaps off the top effortlessly. New experience in surfing for me.
--------------------------- Not your mistake but give me a deal on the next one....... now we ae back to business as usual in the world of surfboards... lol.
funny. I don't know the guy, but I see him at the beach sometimes, and like I said, I try to make conversation when I see one of your boards, there are quite a few in the Topanga / Malibu area where I've been working the past few years. Anyway, not wanting to make trouble for you or him.
I hope I can add my latest board to your thread without causing offense, its 6'7" by 22 3/4", with lots of V in the tail, bevelled rails, and belly in the nose. I love it in uncrowded surf, in more crowded waves I prefer a bit more paddle power (i.e. length). It was inspired in many ways by your work posted here, really love the pics you share. Its a quad, but I sometimes think of adding a single fin option, or thruster option.
Your board looks like a lot of fun. Not a problem whatsoever for me.
As I privately stated to you, the only issue I ever had with Stoker was his egotistical assumption that he had designed some unique surfboard when in fact, the design is just a super user friendly utility design that many of us have shaped since the 70's. I took issue with his attitude being shoved up my ass by him and his enabler network., which included Thomas Campbell, who may be a popular artist and his buddy, but by no means knows sh-t about good surfboard design. A label does not quantify a surfboard design. Never has and never will.
And finally, and just for the record, there is a goodly amount of former "surf stars" from the 60's that turned out to be lazy, Peter Pan syndrome scammers trying to ride on past laurels that are either worthless alcoholics, drug dealers, gigolos to homely trust funders, or just plain dead.
The fair share of them turned out not worth the powder to blow them to hell.
In this day and age, people are afraid to speak their minds for fear of being called a "hater" or not being politically correct or some other cutsey acronym that can be tweeted thru their favorite social network. I'm not part of the Kardashian gneration: I'm not one of those people.
I'm not gonna bank roll anyone's "money for nuthin and chicks for free" schemes.
Your board makes sense for so many surfers out there just looking to have fun in every day waves. More float, more area to generate speed, an increased ability for surfers of all skill sets to carry speed thru each maneuver. It just makes sense. Fun makes sense. Joy is priceless.
Surfboard design is subjective, and depending upon what the surfer wants, and how well the shaper can address what that particular surfer's objective is, has a bearing on how successful any particular surfboard design will be perceived by the rider on that board and the people around him (or her).
Howard Zack, the guy charging it on Maui in my previous post is looking for a 6'6" to 6'10" round pin wide point forward Fountain of Youth. He wants it for Paul strauch stretch fives a H Bay, and I'm totally up for it.... we decided around 19-5/8" makes sense for his particular desire. It's gratifying to be able to go to task and produce a magic sled for a guy with good surfing chops. But I always care about every person I make a board for, whether it's a beginner or someone gifted like Shawn Tracht, Zack or one of the super talented women surfers I do boards for that want a design scaled personally to them.
Shawn has worked with about 40 different shapers while doing his Deep Magazine Board Review column "On Tracht". He knows the knowledgeable guys and the less than upper echelon talent. We clicked and are continuing to do stuff because the relationship is mutually enjoyable as well as beneficial. Shawn is a gifted athlete whether surfing or playing many sports throughout his life. He is a passionate and dedicated teacher in Central California with a tri athlete wife and two great kids. A real positive influence and a class act.
Thanks for the nice comments about my board. Bruce I'm 60 yrs old, that's about as small a board I can ride. No sense buying boards for the surfer I used to be, or wish I was. But some of us old guys don't just want to ride a longboard all the time, either. That's why I like your approach, exploring alternative shapes. Like I say, I get inspired from the boards you put up on this thread.
And I know your stuff isn't just for old guys, I wish there had been more boards like that when I was younger,or that I had been more aware of alternative s shapes back then. I think I'm having more fun now!
It's a focus about having fun. In the last couple of months I was contacted by Cyril, a long time local on Oahu that has surfed all his life with his crew. As is so common in HI, the boyz surf anything and everything and have a blast while doing it. Cyril told me he 'researched my stuff' for 3 months before deciding it was the perfect fit for him. the result has been a steady flow of boards going over to HI with a couple shop owner friends of his on board (pun intended). They speak very highly of him and we are working out the details of making the boards available on Oahu. Shipping is very expensive to Hawai'i as the island chain is the furthest away from any continent in the world.
Getting in the water is so much a part of daily island life, here's some pix of da boyz having the time of their lives....... all of us could stand to take a lesson about the importance of making time for family & fun. Cyril is the guy cross stepping his 7'10" vinylester V8, he also has an orange resin tinted 8'2" and his new 7'4" neon green ds logo "zombie" 4+1 is going over in the next shipment. So far anything from 6'4" to 8'6" is hitting the water.
As I previously mentioned I'm working on some new models for release. Some are pulling from my previous experience which will deepen my offering to the public. I'm trying to avoid having too many models look virtually the same! I see a lot of that on guy's websites, and I have to wonder how that's working for them? I'm not a real big fan of useless redundancy.
That being said, I recently shaped up some boards that have seemingly been around forever. This semi double ender shape works in every day waves regardless of where you live. It's kind of funny because I look at them and picture labels of all the big companies from the 70's that had a version of these.
I also have kept the glassing and color schemes more reminiscent of 1970's: the era that these boards were so prevalent.
Finally, I've updated the foils, rails & rockers for some efficiency, which should optimize paddling, wave entry, & speed. I think they'll offer a smooth riding experience for all skill sets of surfers both young & old.
The new Diamond Tails aren't too shabby either. These are more foiled rails, thinned out tails, deeper vee promoting fast vertical surfing. The accelerated diamond tail shortens the rail length for easier turning and more vertical capabilities than the v machines aka Plain Janes. Kind of a half step up from the earlier design while retaining great paddling and early wave entry.
One of my favorite boards ever, I named it 'Top Gun". It was 8'4" and it could pop the top of a head high wave. But more importantly, it moved me around quickly in "big water" and gave me the confidence to charge quadruple overhead waves. It also allowed me to sit up higher in the water and I could see the outside sets developing compared to guys on little pro glass slippers. The vantage point was something I learned one day while sitting in the lineup at Sunset. One of the old times, it was either Peter Cole or Fred Van dyke, was on a longer thicker board to compensate for his now advanced age. He consistently saw, paddlled out to, and picked off the best waves of every set!
I went home impressed by the experience and imediately built my "Top Gun". The board allowed me to paddle out in a younger week end crowd at Tarantulas, and like Fred or Peter, detect and pick off all the biggest set waves! The board was so solid I would paddle extra paddles down the face after already catching the wave just to get even more speed before bottom turning so low and so hard that my knees felt as if they were going to buckle. TG would bite into the trough and come flying out with so much speed that I could go anywhere on the wave face before redirecting with all the surplus speed.
That type of turn was a light bulb moment for me. It made me realize the differences of what good surfers & excellent surfers do to make waves or attain a higher level of performance. There is a constant fluidity and always thinking ahead (like a jet pilot) that the top echelon execute compared to slight pauses and disconnected moves by surfers of more modest calibers.
Top Gun taught me that.
Maybe that's the definition of magic?
Top Gun made a huge difference in how confident I surfed big Ranch, Jalama, Channel Islands, Central & Nor Cal spots. It only made sense to offer up that kind of ride again. Pictured here is a freshly shaped 9'6" with an 8'6" sister ship roughed out and going to glass tomorrow. These boards will have all the bells & whistles: full color, double pinlines, top of the line glassing with mirror finishes.
Can't wait to get the glass on them and show them off!
Thanks for the offer, let me slow down first. I'm currently just too busy focusing on everything new I'm offering up.
I've added a 9'0" Top Gun into the mix. I got a flurry of Q's after posting pix on FB and I explained that these boards are looser than what one might think. I also explained that these are Cali 'fun guns' versus Pipeline needles. The fullness of curve and relaxed rocker creates a draft better suited to our waves that come in slower due to the Continental Shelf than waves in Hawaii. These boards will ride well as single, tri, or 4+1, 2+1 fin configurations.
Here's the 9'0" cutout eyesterday and the three will go into glassing today. Wish my shaping room ceiling was taller.
Been a long time since I paddled out to the overhead, not sure I will again anytime soon, but that's a board I wouldn't mind paddling out to bigger rincon or stables. Very clean and functional looking, can't wait to see 'em in full color!
will check back later on hot seat invite, the new models all look good.
The fin out rail turn foto by my pal Steve Bissell taken at Rincon.
It was a given for many years that the rider was Jeff Boyd, then a discussion ensued on FB that it is Kevin Sears. No clear conclsion was ever determined. Whoever it was, it is still a damn impressive pic and testimony to how important, fin, rail and bottom rocker are to a surfboard! ;-O
I'm trying to find the foto so I can copy it and post it here.....
Got it, and IT IS JEFF BOYD.
https://www.facebook.com/317597478257790/photos/a.398090316875172.115084...
Fantastic pics - thanks!
We are in high gear now....... lots of activity, hopes 'n dreams.
The quad box test will allow us to explore quadramania more but also opens up the choice to run the board with varying main fin sizes supplemented by either 2+1 fins forward or behind the center fin desired. Those choices will deliver a looser more pivoting turn from the forward fin choice, or more posi-traction with 2+1 fins equal or behind the main (center) fin driver.
Shawn asked me for the quad option, and I decided to go ahead with this direction because it plays into the torsional flex off the panel vee due to the leverage positioning of the forward & rear quads. I'm not opposed to exploring that dynamic. Obviously it will be different from the center fin driving positions we are playing with.
I'm currently designing two different types of fins for the center fin positions. The current status quo fin out there is stiffer than what I want, which has me refoiling them for flexier tips than what is currently available. I don't accept the claim that the Greenough's and some other "flex" fins will naturally "break into the correct flex pattern" in six months or a year?!! The chord has changed since the early 70's and we could flex the tips 1/8 of an inch side to side with your little finger...... this is what worked then, and this is what I'm after for one of the new ones I'm designing.
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Shawn reported in last night on the 7'2" quad/single test board:
"The board is off the richter scale! I knew it would be sick, but had no idea this unbelievable. The lines are like nothing I've ever taken before and the stoke factor is bursting out of my chest. No lack of speed either...f--k your mach 4, it's like Mach 6...if that's even a thing. Anyway, people are freaking on it, they don't even know what it is and they think they already want one. My wave, count, which is already ridiculously high, went up...? My back hurts from catching so many waves. I've almost got my round house grab rail cutty down, I'll have it soon, the speed off the V and the long rail line are going to take me about 4 more waves to figure it out. I used the Purple Greenough, I think the 9" right? The Shapers fin was too thick in the base and I'll need to sand it down to get it to fit down in the box. Anyway, I rode the Greenough in the middle yesterday and up all the way today. I liked it in the Middle so far a little better because I had a little more leeway to step back (like I'm use to) and recover, then to remember I need to surf up in the middle.
My best waves were deep fades off the take off back to the curl, stepping up to the middle of the board with two feet, right next to each other, together, and then swooping back right, off the toe side, into one of the raddest swooping fade turn high-lines of my life! The board was freaking out my friend Miranda. She is like 51, wins most of the girls contest in her age group and is the best long boarder up here probably. She has one of your 8 ft single fins she takes to Mex. She was on a Wayne Rich Rehab board and killing it, but kept freaking over the lines I was taking...as was I. Anyway, she rips, so I put her on the board. She fell on her first wave, which made us both laugh because she doesn't wear a leash and never falls, just nose rides the shit out of waves with beauty. I told her to step up with both feet because that's what you told me. On her next waves, she friggen jumped to the middle of the board mid fade, then swooped the sickest down the line drive ever! In that moment, I figured the board out, watching her. She was freaking as she came to the channel where I was sitting, having taken the wave before. We laughed out loud and she was screaming in stoke! Anyway, the journey has just begun. More soon". S.T. ---------------------------------------------------------This is the end result of taking a complete crap blob 10'10"x32"x5"" thick SUP blank with primitive rocker and making something that can make music. Finished out at 10'2"x27"x 4". and FOILED.
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A certain project on my bucket list.
Is a stringer less early Keyo Vee by Neil Purchase
Known as the “Virgin”
Your shot just grabbed me.
Best
Matty
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
Yes.
The advancements in foam coupled with refinements in the design make this a worthy project.
The foto of Midget in this link inspired me to explore the lineage then go beyond it.. to pick up where 'they' left off and keep on going so I can be part of that lineage versus yet another shaper copying something and calling it "retro". That foto is pinned up on my shaping room wall gloriously covered with foam dust.
The copycats pick up on something then rush to get in on it, the wannabes claim they came up with something original because they are legends in their own minds...... it hurts so bad, that need for them to be famous!
"The past and current (2010) shameless hijacking of history has prompted the above. As surfers age and the real facts slide into the foggy past it is easy for the snake oil salesmen to hoodwink the public at large with books, dvds, mag articals and 'pop out' festivals. Those, with little or no talent are able to capitalize on designs created by others, present themselves as gurus, then lend their names to mass produced 'poop outs'." - MF
To me a "surfboard designer" has to have at least shaped a surfboard.... maybe that's old era stuff, but I have a hard time swallowing people hijacking previously done stuff and claiming it as some f'n brainchild of theirs? Three dollar bills aren't worth sh=t.
That's not the mission here!
http://www.swellnet.com/news/talking-heads/2014/01/29/tim-baker-centurio...\\
Interesting
The Link a picture half way down the page on Midgets surfboard site begs the truth??
http://www.farrellysurfboards.com/
Bruce, that swellnet article was great! Makes me really want to read his book, the guy has a great outlook and approach.
I just remember Tracks as being something really special when a few rare copies would make their way to the States back in the day. There was also Surfing World Australia & Japan. I ended up writing an article for Surfing World Japan about Rincon & the Santa Barbara surfing scene, accompanied by beautiful Steve Bissell images. I think that was circa 1971,2 OR 3. They published it 2 issues. It was a big deal I guess.
. There was some mention of The Ranch, and a few guys heard wind of it and were miffed when a copy of the mag showed up at the old C.I. shop on Helena Avenue...... but since they couldn't read Japanese, it was hard for them to really lodge any kind of complaint!
That was back in the days that the surfing magazines had real impact with articles like "The High Performers", Dora's cavorting about, and other such misadventures...
P.S. Hell, maybe those 2 Japan issues were Surfing Life? Can anyone clarify that there was a "Surfing World" mag?
Bruce,
Mahalo for your input.
I lived it (on the Westcoast)
Wish I was Downunder then
So I had first hand knowledge
I still doubt the records...
Any way you slice it...
Revolution!
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
Cyril Huddy mentioned you in a comment.Cyril wrote: "This is the board before coming to Hawaii! I emailed Bruce Fowler on my maiden voyage this morning but I'll let him read/edit if he decides to paste my message on this page. The best way I can explain how it surfed in a nutshell is this.
Paddles like a LB, catches waves like a 10' LB, turns like a 6'0 SB, speeds like bullet and I saved the best for last, trims/glides like a 22' OC-1!"
Cyril got an 8'2" all orange resin tint, polished finish. He lives in Waipahu (Oahu).
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More recent work.
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V8 is gaining momentum...... not that it ever needed to: the boards are ALL ABOUT HORSEPOWER and lots of it.
GG would approve..... as I have stated in previous Sways threads, George has always been about having the power to attain mach speeds..... maybe that's why it's called "G Force"..... ? Lol.
Just to clarify something: this ain't a George Greenough design..... inspired? Yes, design? NO.... this is a BF design in a parallel world to GG's.... his spoon had no vee, I've acknowledged and used his crowned tail outline for "turns from hell" that I was allowed to take a template of 46 years ago. Damn that's an old template! George carves out the foam from his tail sections and has a graduated glassing schedule from nose to tail.
In contrast, I keep the foam but minimize it while using some heady PLANE GEOMETRY intertwining center STRINGER, PANEL VEE, and my own distinct GLASSING SCHEDULE to attain TORSIONAL FLEX which is in keeping with my original design providing key features I call ROCKER ON DEMAND, AND TWIST OFF. My approach is more user friendly for the average stand up surfer because it is NOT a DISPLACEMENT HULL which are wonderful unto themselves, but develop what Marc Andreini describes as "terminal speed".
My design is a r-o-a-d-s-t-e-r with a big block engine.
I've always admired George's strength using those big JET FINS he used to paddle, er, more correctly, SWIM, his "NEUTRAL BUOYANCY" vehicle out to the line up....... I mean GG weighs all of about 145 lbs. sopping WET!
In contrast, this 6'2" is the latest & greatest test board that paddles like a...... uh oh, we've said that line b4!
Let's just say, this is a LOTTA board for its size of 6'2".... either competing with a longboard or it might even be considered an oversized kneeboard that you can stand up on.?
I have already had comments from users concerned about the boards maybe "going too fast"..... which is a wonderful compliment that I'm not fretting about..... in fact, this was my whole design intent in the first place!
I gotta ask you, do you really want a board to go slow in every day gutless small surf? I sure as hell don't!
Which would you take? ..... a board that goes too fast or too slow?
As a designer, I'll suggest you add more fins or go with bigger ones ..... after all, fins create drag so you have "directional stability"...... keyword: directional. Think about the earlier post from Cyrus in Hawaii: paddled like a ten footer and turned like a six footer with crazy speed, stoke blah blah...... not a bad problem to deal with eh? I think he has figured it out from the get go!
Here are just a few options you can play with if so inclined...... HAVE FUN!
Footnote: The Greenough Stage VI (6) fins pictured here have initially proven too 'positive' (stiff) in small surf. To date 8-1/2" to 9.75" Greenough Stage IV-A and flexy 10" Alex Knost fins have worked well in nearly all sizes of V8's. Start with your fin at least 10" up from the tail but better at 12" up then inch back a little at a time if needed. The boards ride better from a forward position.... they are NOT TAIL RIDERS.... fin forward, rider forward.... if the board feels squirrley, you are standing too far back!
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Testimonial in today's email"
Shane Voelker 12:12 PM (2 hours ago)The board was amazing today down at San O. I had the 8.5" fin all the way forward. It was a little squirrelly at first. Still caught a ton of waves and it was fast. See stats. Moved it back an inch for tomorrow. I let a friend try it and he couldn't believe how fun it was. Hope I sold another one for you. Let me know if you think I should have a 9" fin. Thanks! Attachments area Preview attachment image1.PNG
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Different strokes.
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The 6'2" is out there! We are assessing & reassessing. That's what designing is all about.
We just finished a 6'4" at Hawks and I just shaped out the first 5'10" 4+1.
This is FUN!
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From left to right: 8'6" extra stocker , 8'0" headed to Mollusk SF, 7'6" ..Mollusk SF, 7'4" EPS Custom Mollusk SF, 7'4" Wave Front Ventura, 7'0" Mollusk SF, 6'4" Extra stock. Not shown 7'11", 7'6" & 7.2" for Wave Front Ventura.
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Taşıma DetaylarıOriginDestinationPiecesWeightDate / Hour FlightFinal SituationLAXIST11507.08.2015TK 00101 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 07 August from LAX to IST.
1 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was prepared for loading on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was booked on 07 August from LAX to IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August at LAX
OriginDestinationPiecesWeightDate / Hour FlightFinal SituationISTFRA11509.08.2015TK 15931 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 09 August from IST to FRA.
1 piece(s) / 15 kg departed on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was prepared for loading on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was booked on 09 August from IST to FRA1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August from null at IST1 piece(s) / 15 kg was received on 07 August at LAX
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Ah a search ensued in the name of customer service, with a happy ending:
"Hi Daniel,
Your cargo is at FRA, arrived on the 9th at 17:05. Agent for TK is Best regards, ........ don't forget your wax! ;-)IMG_3263.jpg
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As much as you can try, sh-t happens. Esp. when you are sending boards all over the world.
Got this email this morning:
"
Dear All! I picked the shipment up this morning and unfortunately, as you can see in the pictures from my cellphone camera, there is a minor damage on the tail of one of the boards. The boards were nicely packed with lots of foam and bubble wrap, and I am not sure how this happened... No big deal, but I thought it would be better to let you know! I will be offline and on vacation for the next two weeks, but I will reply after that. Cheers DanielIMG_3972.jpg
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We are gathering results in crap surf until some 'real waves' decide to grace our coast........ using many different fin combos in the 6'2" so we know what works and what doesn't. Wave count & water time is the only thing that counts in this equation:
the lastest feedback:
Rode the 6'2 in more small waves all weekend, but with 4 fins in 2ft lined up little peelers. Now let me explain: rode the K2 keels with the small inset fins from the Tyler Warren Quad set. I've ridden that combo on another similar size board and it was great. You'd think it's too much fin, but in reality, it works so well because it basically makes this sort of super keel to help the super wide board have drive, especially when needing to get the back rail line engaged more for driving off the back 1/4 of the board when trying to pump. Moreover, because the tail is so wide and the ins are moved up so far, there is no issue with drag whatsoever. The board rode very much like a skateboard with new age super carvey trucks. The benefit in small waves, especially when you need to clear some foam sections, is that you have increased drive from the quad fins in conjunction with the rail line, however, you don't at all take away from the real personality of the V bottom board, which wants to surf with sweet trimming speed and transfer from rail to rail with 70's style that is tripping out everyone in the line up. I can't tell you how many people over a short two week period have said, "dude, that board looks so sick! I Haven't seen anything like it and your style is tripping me out, it looks so fresh and fun and easy...in a relaxing but stoking me out way. Who shapes those? Where can I get one?Take Care, Shawn
Here's a statement from another Sways thread called "Hansen Master Powerflex" that is a classic representation of the sentiment from many surfers circa 1967, 68 and 69 after experimenting with the cavalcade of rapid fire surfboard designs that spun off into space starting with the introduction of the v bottoms:
I have seen this board in person and can say it is one fine surf craft! It always amazes me how refined the boards of the late 60's were. They were starting to really dial it in then that damn v-bottom had to come out.
- See more at: http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/hansen-master-powerflex?page=1#comment-5...
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Brad Schiller got his new stick late in the afternoon, he couldn't wait to ride it.
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Eh Bruce,
Love your work
thought you may get a lift.
As some board makers love a "brown Betty"
Others
boards that went down swinging!
Aloha and
enjoy the ride!!!
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
Love it........ ;-P
It's called a "Stinger" circa 1973. Ben Aipa was inspired by an old design some of the beachboys were riding on the South Shore and decided to give it a go. The sting allows the boards to pivot sharply which proved ideal for surfers like Larry Bertlemann, Buttons Kahuiokalani, amd Mark Liddell to surf Kaisers Bowl with the design.
Enjoy the visuals.
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Got this nice email this afternoon:
Hey Bruce,
Just wanted to let you know that my new 5-10 winged pintail is hands down one of the best boards I have ever owned. We went through a flat spell after I picked her up and I only got to surf her once until last week when we finally got hit with back to back swells. The board performs exactly as desired and is the perfect compliment to my 5-6.
I have mostly surfed it as a quad and that seems to be working well though plan on playing around with different fin options soon.
Thanks again,
Matt Morris
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I like this thread, check it almost every day. I see these boards at Topanga and Malibu, I almost always ask, and find that most guys that have them are really stoked on them.
Thanks for the nod Huck. Yes, I try hard to please by going the extra mile.
That being said, there's always room for improvement or offering up something fresh. Here's some new stuff in the works to add to the quiver.
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Doing some muted resin abstracts, pigs, longboards, and other stuff to keep life interesting. Here's some eye candy.
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Ran into him today, he sez he sold it cuz it had too much float! But he got 90% of what he paid, and said he ordered another custom, so I don't think he's upset about it. It is, after all, what he asked for ! :-)
THAT'S the problem with making something you aren't fully into! I told him it was way overkill and suggested some other ways to go.... he was vehemently against EPS smaller version for float etc. I shaped that "G.D." thing out of an immense blob of an SUP blank and gave it a good foil and scaled it up so Godzilla or King Kong could ride it. He doesn't weigh as much as a Sumo wrestler..... not even close. He told me he was 235 lbs or thereabouts and that he NEEDED that kind of size and float.
Ok, so I guess 90% of what he wanted is pretty good, isn't it? Maybe not, maybe the 10% will end my career as a shaper.
You just never know in this business.
Maybe I can announce my retirement before I'm fired........ Aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeee! :-O
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"The mistake was mine. The lesson cost me only $180 and my time. I harbor no bad feelings.
However, maybe you'll cut me a better deal on my next SVM".
--------------------------- Not your mistake but "cut me a deal on the next one"....... now we are back to business as usual in the world of surfboards... lol.
Huck, believe me, doesn't bother me in the least. Here is his further explantation replied to me today while I camp out for 12 days in my place in Cabo:
"Yeah. I sold it to a guy last Sunday in the Topanga parking lot after my second go out".
"It paddled, it caught waves but it was uncontrollable.
I have a journeyman shaper kid making me a traditional looking 10.4 single fin.
I'll be wanting a new SVM next year".
Best regards,
GD
My previous ranting has been edited to PG level:
V8 V Bottoms are NOT a displacement hull or tail riding longboard. If you try to tail ride them they will be squirrley. Control comes from pushing the fin forward & moving forward. The design was intended that way and many people are digging them for the very reason that they do provide a different experience from the norm. I specifically kept the ability to spin out intact, which was viewed as a "problem" with the early designs back in '67. By going back in time, then continuing to develop, improve, and refine the design from that point on.... so it could possess greater capability, I feel I am honoring and furthering the lineage versus just merely copying something we shaped back then. I said a few times sonehere along the line, it was Midget's and some other photographs that inspired this current design jag I'm on. That speaks volumes for the power an image can invoke.
I wanted to retain that ability of slippage or drift, as was one of the original comments Midget made about his first v bottom. and the fin he designed for that board. My intent is to enable good surfers to use that as a tool to further their surfing on this unique design. If you want posi-taction, you are turning closer to center of the board with the fin positioned a foot or more up from the tail with a minimum of 10" for nearly all the sizes to enable the boards to pivot carve while burying the rail deeper into the water. As the rider ges the board wired, he/she can fudge their foot position back further and there will be more drift..... to the point that a good surfer can powerslide the board turns or cutbacks, and even perform a controlled spin out. Honestly, people that don't get the design intent, shouldn't even ride them. I'm not gonna make these with a standard tri fin thurster fin configuration or a single fin box set further back toward the tail because I don't believe they will even work. A quad is a different matter and the feedback so far has been very good along with the single fin option.
For that reason, I'm offering them as single & 4+1's. Anyone wanting to ride the 4+1's as a 2+1 is welcome to play with them. If you want a looser 2+1 put the outrigger fins up front, for more positive put them in the rear set of boxes. The boards are meant to play with different variations of fins, and as intended, regardless of the fin setup, everyone has remarked at how FAST the boards are and how EASY they are to turn "even with that wide tail". All of that was, and is, the intent of the design. If you want to pose, and noseride, and swing the board off the tail, go get a long board, that's not, nor ever has been, a V Bottom.
In the meantime, I am very fortunate that more and more guys are recognizing and seeking out what I'm making to add to their quivers. The pix here are a couple Zack Howard, a former Malibu local turned Maui resident sent to me with an order for a 6'10" he can do cheater fives at Honolua Bay.... his wish is my command! He's shown here doing one tow in, one paddlie in, and a couple cover photos of his past when living in Cali. I love making boards for surfers from all skill sets ranging from guys like Zack to beginners looking for their first stoke.
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?
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Sorry Bruce didn't mean to hit a nerve, the guy was not dissing you at all, just saying the board wasn't working for him, but like you say, he didn't give it much of a chance. I was hoping to get a chance to see the board, but maybe it will show up with the new owner, sounds like it ended up with someone who is stoked on it, so its all good.
I get ya.... two times out and judgement passed...... you're s'posed to turn them from a forward position..... that has always been the description of this design and I thought the guy wanted the design as originally intended.
Back in 1967 it was about going shorter, so why in hell should I go backwards by offering this design as a long board?
We were lopping off one and two feet of beautiful refined longboards in a quest for higher performance. The smaller they got, the easier they turned. That is exactly why the race from long to short resulted in the design never being around long enough to ge refined & gain traction. I went from 9'8" to 9'3" to 7'11" to 7'4" to 5'6" all in less than 11 months.... many guys did the same. We were moving at lightning speed in the name of total commitment and high performance. Tune in, turn on, drop out. Burn your bra, burn your draft card, make love not war, have you ever been experienced?
Well, I have.
So in the future, I'll just say no........ can I do it? Sure, I'm fully capable of shaping just about anything you can imagine, does that mean I will do it..?..... negatory. At the end of the day, it's more about satisfaction for me than any amount of dinero.
My only motivation to shape and design surfboards is passion.
Thank god the vast majority of feedback is like below:
Dave 8:50 PM (23 hours ago)funny. I don't know the guy, but I see him at the beach sometimes, and like I said, I try to make conversation when I see one of your boards, there are quite a few in the Topanga / Malibu area where I've been working the past few years. Anyway, not wanting to make trouble for you or him.
I hope I can add my latest board to your thread without causing offense, its 6'7" by 22 3/4", with lots of V in the tail, bevelled rails, and belly in the nose. I love it in uncrowded surf, in more crowded waves I prefer a bit more paddle power (i.e. length). It was inspired in many ways by your work posted here, really love the pics you share. Its a quad, but I sometimes think of adding a single fin option, or thruster option.
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Your board looks like a lot of fun. Not a problem whatsoever for me.
As I privately stated to you, the only issue I ever had with Stoker was his egotistical assumption that he had designed some unique surfboard when in fact, the design is just a super user friendly utility design that many of us have shaped since the 70's. I took issue with his attitude being shoved up my ass by him and his enabler network., which included Thomas Campbell, who may be a popular artist and his buddy, but by no means knows sh-t about good surfboard design. A label does not quantify a surfboard design. Never has and never will.
And finally, and just for the record, there is a goodly amount of former "surf stars" from the 60's that turned out to be lazy, Peter Pan syndrome scammers trying to ride on past laurels that are either worthless alcoholics, drug dealers, gigolos to homely trust funders, or just plain dead.
The fair share of them turned out not worth the powder to blow them to hell.
In this day and age, people are afraid to speak their minds for fear of being called a "hater" or not being politically correct or some other cutsey acronym that can be tweeted thru their favorite social network. I'm not part of the Kardashian gneration: I'm not one of those people.
I'm not gonna bank roll anyone's "money for nuthin and chicks for free" schemes.
Your board makes sense for so many surfers out there just looking to have fun in every day waves. More float, more area to generate speed, an increased ability for surfers of all skill sets to carry speed thru each maneuver. It just makes sense. Fun makes sense. Joy is priceless.
Surfboard design is subjective, and depending upon what the surfer wants, and how well the shaper can address what that particular surfer's objective is, has a bearing on how successful any particular surfboard design will be perceived by the rider on that board and the people around him (or her).
Howard Zack, the guy charging it on Maui in my previous post is looking for a 6'6" to 6'10" round pin wide point forward Fountain of Youth. He wants it for Paul strauch stretch fives a H Bay, and I'm totally up for it.... we decided around 19-5/8" makes sense for his particular desire. It's gratifying to be able to go to task and produce a magic sled for a guy with good surfing chops. But I always care about every person I make a board for, whether it's a beginner or someone gifted like Shawn Tracht, Zack or one of the super talented women surfers I do boards for that want a design scaled personally to them.
Don't ever take the "custom" out of customer.
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Well that's cool that Shawn Tract is still riding your stuff, he's the guy who did the nice write up some time back, no?
Shawn has worked with about 40 different shapers while doing his Deep Magazine Board Review column "On Tracht". He knows the knowledgeable guys and the less than upper echelon talent. We clicked and are continuing to do stuff because the relationship is mutually enjoyable as well as beneficial. Shawn is a gifted athlete whether surfing or playing many sports throughout his life. He is a passionate and dedicated teacher in Central California with a tri athlete wife and two great kids. A real positive influence and a class act.
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Thanks for the nice comments about my board. Bruce I'm 60 yrs old, that's about as small a board I can ride. No sense buying boards for the surfer I used to be, or wish I was. But some of us old guys don't just want to ride a longboard all the time, either. That's why I like your approach, exploring alternative shapes. Like I say, I get inspired from the boards you put up on this thread.
And I know your stuff isn't just for old guys, I wish there had been more boards like that when I was younger,or that I had been more aware of alternative s shapes back then. I think I'm having more fun now!
It's a focus about having fun. In the last couple of months I was contacted by Cyril, a long time local on Oahu that has surfed all his life with his crew. As is so common in HI, the boyz surf anything and everything and have a blast while doing it. Cyril told me he 'researched my stuff' for 3 months before deciding it was the perfect fit for him. the result has been a steady flow of boards going over to HI with a couple shop owner friends of his on board (pun intended). They speak very highly of him and we are working out the details of making the boards available on Oahu. Shipping is very expensive to Hawai'i as the island chain is the furthest away from any continent in the world.
Getting in the water is so much a part of daily island life, here's some pix of da boyz having the time of their lives....... all of us could stand to take a lesson about the importance of making time for family & fun. Cyril is the guy cross stepping his 7'10" vinylester V8, he also has an orange resin tinted 8'2" and his new 7'4" neon green ds logo "zombie" 4+1 is going over in the next shipment. So far anything from 6'4" to 8'6" is hitting the water.
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As I previously mentioned I'm working on some new models for release. Some are pulling from my previous experience which will deepen my offering to the public. I'm trying to avoid having too many models look virtually the same! I see a lot of that on guy's websites, and I have to wonder how that's working for them? I'm not a real big fan of useless redundancy.
That being said, I recently shaped up some boards that have seemingly been around forever. This semi double ender shape works in every day waves regardless of where you live. It's kind of funny because I look at them and picture labels of all the big companies from the 70's that had a version of these.
I also have kept the glassing and color schemes more reminiscent of 1970's: the era that these boards were so prevalent.
Finally, I've updated the foils, rails & rockers for some efficiency, which should optimize paddling, wave entry, & speed. I think they'll offer a smooth riding experience for all skill sets of surfers both young & old.
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The new Diamond Tails aren't too shabby either. These are more foiled rails, thinned out tails, deeper vee promoting fast vertical surfing. The accelerated diamond tail shortens the rail length for easier turning and more vertical capabilities than the v machines aka Plain Janes. Kind of a half step up from the earlier design while retaining great paddling and early wave entry.
Enjoy.
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One of my favorite boards ever, I named it 'Top Gun". It was 8'4" and it could pop the top of a head high wave. But more importantly, it moved me around quickly in "big water" and gave me the confidence to charge quadruple overhead waves. It also allowed me to sit up higher in the water and I could see the outside sets developing compared to guys on little pro glass slippers. The vantage point was something I learned one day while sitting in the lineup at Sunset. One of the old times, it was either Peter Cole or Fred Van dyke, was on a longer thicker board to compensate for his now advanced age. He consistently saw, paddlled out to, and picked off the best waves of every set!
I went home impressed by the experience and imediately built my "Top Gun". The board allowed me to paddle out in a younger week end crowd at Tarantulas, and like Fred or Peter, detect and pick off all the biggest set waves! The board was so solid I would paddle extra paddles down the face after already catching the wave just to get even more speed before bottom turning so low and so hard that my knees felt as if they were going to buckle. TG would bite into the trough and come flying out with so much speed that I could go anywhere on the wave face before redirecting with all the surplus speed.
That type of turn was a light bulb moment for me. It made me realize the differences of what good surfers & excellent surfers do to make waves or attain a higher level of performance. There is a constant fluidity and always thinking ahead (like a jet pilot) that the top echelon execute compared to slight pauses and disconnected moves by surfers of more modest calibers.
Top Gun taught me that.
Maybe that's the definition of magic?
Top Gun made a huge difference in how confident I surfed big Ranch, Jalama, Channel Islands, Central & Nor Cal spots. It only made sense to offer up that kind of ride again. Pictured here is a freshly shaped 9'6" with an 8'6" sister ship roughed out and going to glass tomorrow. These boards will have all the bells & whistles: full color, double pinlines, top of the line glassing with mirror finishes.
Can't wait to get the glass on them and show them off!
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top gun - very nice, looks like it means business!
Bruce - would you be interested in doing a "shaper's hot seat" thread for a week or two?
Thanks for the offer, let me slow down first. I'm currently just too busy focusing on everything new I'm offering up.
I've added a 9'0" Top Gun into the mix. I got a flurry of Q's after posting pix on FB and I explained that these boards are looser than what one might think. I also explained that these are Cali 'fun guns' versus Pipeline needles. The fullness of curve and relaxed rocker creates a draft better suited to our waves that come in slower due to the Continental Shelf than waves in Hawaii. These boards will ride well as single, tri, or 4+1, 2+1 fin configurations.
Here's the 9'0" cutout eyesterday and the three will go into glassing today. Wish my shaping room ceiling was taller.
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Been a long time since I paddled out to the overhead, not sure I will again anytime soon, but that's a board I wouldn't mind paddling out to bigger rincon or stables. Very clean and functional looking, can't wait to see 'em in full color!
will check back later on hot seat invite, the new models all look good.
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