Hey Greg, im a young shaper from Israel and thanks to good man that answer the name "Lee Jordan" im using your epoxy. im only using kwik kick and im loving it, all the boards I make, most of them are PU, im using kwik kick on it, cant even hear about poly, im loving it!
its preety easy to get problems with epoxy but once I love the advantages that it gives me.
so the ultra is an additve like additve f? I mean, can I mix it up with a batch of kwick kick and add F ? do you know the costs alredy? and when its get out to the market?
I do have few little problems with epoxy.. SANDING and Polishing.
when im sanding my hot coat everything just great but when im sanding my gloss coats. Smart men told me that for good gloss finish I need to start sanding the coat with 400 and not lower than that because it very very hard to remove a lower grits scratches. which grit paper you start for sanding gloss?
the secend problem is when im sanding the gloss coat with the 400, the paper clogging very very fast, I mean 10 SEC on the board and the paper all white and cloged even with good paper from indasa. the carpet trick is nice but there is any other soulution for that?
thank you very much! hope you will continue ship to Israel the best resin...
edit:
I have few more questions.
what is the diffrence bettween the "normal" RR epoxy to the PH formoula?
how much "forgiving" is RR Kwick kick for wrong ratios? (in the 20 ml area) im sure you have done some experiments with that.
Hi Jeffrey and Keith. I've seen this a few times too. XPS did it the worst and that was from heat. EPS doesn't generally do this but if the foam isn't aged quite long enough before being pressed into blocks it can have some residual blowing agent which can cause a post expansion. As for PU I've seen it shrink and expand through the years and it's usually dependent on factors that happen during the blank manufacturing. With all these foams we're talking about very low density which is pushing the envelope of even being possible. I've made urethane blanks and it's an art, very difficult. I used to hear all the stories about people dissing Clark and overall I thought he did a good job.
Gee Reverb, you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? We all have our preferences which is actually a good thing. Makes it so we can exchange ideas and better what we do. So I'm just gonna answer questions as best I can and if I occasionally stray into talking about what I do and what I believe sorry.
Gee Reverb, you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? We all have our preferences which is actually a good thing. Makes it so we can exchange ideas and better what we do. So I'm just gonna answer questions as best I can and if I occasionally stray into talking about what I do and what I believe sorry.
Reverb does that sometimes ;- \
I hope im not speaking out of place, but Greg telling us about his epoxies is sort of the whole point of the thread. Most of us, at least sometimes, use epoxy. And I think all epoxy users are more than grateful to Greg for helping us use his epoxy a little better.
Hey Greg - It's an honor to have you on this forum sharing your knowledge. Alot of us "Backyard Hacks" greatly appreciate it..
My question has to do with using Innegra (EPS blank) & epoxy with pigments.I've recently tried using Innegra on a couple of my builds. Unfortunately, the first one, I also added red pigment to the epoxy ( before I learned that the innegra "wets out" somewhat opaque, not clear & ended up with a pinkish red layup. The only solution I could come up with was to do multiple hot coats with pigment in them as well, and that caused a whole slew of problems(fish eyes, and lots of clogged sandpaper). I mixed by weight so I'm sure my ratio was accurate & think that the pigment my have prevented the epoxy from fully curing. Do you have any ideas/techniques for getting "color into a board layed up with Innegra?
...ok; possibly is like Everysurfer is saying, my apologies in that case, but It s a bit stronger than me when some one start to make noise of his product in the general forum...
My question is regarding the changes between you as a competition surfer and then as a shaper.
The question I have is what is the best place to get RR on the west coast?
I contacted Graphite Masters as instructed on Sways, but as a backyard guy, I was basically ignored... So, I get my epoxy from Greenlight - which costs a lot more probably due to all the shipping, etc...
The only other issue that I have ever had with your epoxy is attempting to tint/pigment the resin. Do you have any suggestions on tint/pigment? Or do you just recommend the foam stain?
Does RR or your epoxy need keying or sanding before hotcoating, i presume all epoxy does. I use what i think is Kinetix here but not sure as its been rebranded. Its a really good resin which is easy to use and kick relatively fast but needs sanding with 80grit before adding more layers be it another lamination or sand/hotcoat.
Do you know of any epoxy that does not require this?
Whats your opinion on topcoating epoxy with polyester, i have done a few successfully and some very unsuccessfully:)
Hey Greg, im a young shaper from Israel and thanks to good man that answer the name "Lee Jordan" im using your epoxy. im only using kwik kick and im loving it, all the boards I make, most of them are PU, im using kwik kick on it, cant even hear about poly, im loving it!
its preety easy to get problems with epoxy but once I love the advantages that it gives me.
so the ultra is an additve like additve f? I mean, can I mix it up with a batch of kwick kick and add F ? do you know the costs alredy? and when its get out to the market?
I do have few little problems with epoxy.. SANDING and Polishing.
when im sanding my hot coat everything just great but when im sanding my gloss coats. Smart men told me that for good gloss finish I need to start sanding the coat with 400 and not lower than that because it very very hard to remove a lower grits scratches. which grit paper you start for sanding gloss?
the secend problem is when im sanding the gloss coat with the 400, the paper clogging very very fast, I mean 10 SEC on the board and the paper all white and cloged even with good paper from indasa. the carpet trick is nice but there is any other soulution for that?
thank you very much! hope you will continue ship to Israel the best resin...
edit:
I have few more questions.
what is the diffrence bettween the "normal" RR epoxy to the PH formoula?
how much "forgiving" is RR Kwick kick for wrong ratios? (in the 20 ml area) im sure you have done some experiments with that.
Hi Jeffrey and Keith. I've seen this a few times too. XPS did it the worst and that was from heat. EPS doesn't generally do this but if the foam isn't aged quite long enough before being pressed into blocks it can have some residual blowing agent which can cause a post expansion. As for PU I've seen it shrink and expand through the years and it's usually dependent on factors that happen during the blank manufacturing. With all these foams we're talking about very low density which is pushing the envelope of even being possible. I've made urethane blanks and it's an art, very difficult. I used to hear all the stories about people dissing Clark and overall I thought he did a good job.
.
Gee Reverb, you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? We all have our preferences which is actually a good thing. Makes it so we can exchange ideas and better what we do. So I'm just gonna answer questions as best I can and if I occasionally stray into talking about what I do and what I believe sorry.
Reverb does that sometimes ;- \
I hope im not speaking out of place, but Greg telling us about his epoxies is sort of the whole point of the thread. Most of us, at least sometimes, use epoxy. And I think all epoxy users are more than grateful to Greg for helping us use his epoxy a little better.
Thanks again!
http://markmillerconstruction.com
Hey Greg - It's an honor to have you on this forum sharing your knowledge. Alot of us "Backyard Hacks" greatly appreciate it..
My question has to do with using Innegra (EPS blank) & epoxy with pigments.I've recently tried using Innegra on a couple of my builds. Unfortunately, the first one, I also added red pigment to the epoxy ( before I learned that the innegra "wets out" somewhat opaque, not clear & ended up with a pinkish red layup. The only solution I could come up with was to do multiple hot coats with pigment in them as well, and that caused a whole slew of problems(fish eyes, and lots of clogged sandpaper). I mixed by weight so I'm sure my ratio was accurate & think that the pigment my have prevented the epoxy from fully curing. Do you have any ideas/techniques for getting "color into a board layed up with Innegra?
...ok; possibly is like Everysurfer is saying, my apologies in that case, but It s a bit stronger than me when some one start to make noise of his product in the general forum...
My question is regarding the changes between you as a competition surfer and then as a shaper.
The question I have is what is the best place to get RR on the west coast?
I contacted Graphite Masters as instructed on Sways, but as a backyard guy, I was basically ignored... So, I get my epoxy from Greenlight - which costs a lot more probably due to all the shipping, etc...
The only other issue that I have ever had with your epoxy is attempting to tint/pigment the resin. Do you have any suggestions on tint/pigment? Or do you just recommend the foam stain?
Thanks!
Hi Greg,
Does RR or your epoxy need keying or sanding before hotcoating, i presume all epoxy does. I use what i think is Kinetix here but not sure as its been rebranded. Its a really good resin which is easy to use and kick relatively fast but needs sanding with 80grit before adding more layers be it another lamination or sand/hotcoat.
Do you know of any epoxy that does not require this?
Whats your opinion on topcoating epoxy with polyester, i have done a few successfully and some very unsuccessfully:)
Thanks
Thanks for posting Greg.
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