paddle out catch one ride it all the way thru
step off at the beach go in go home,...
january 13 2015 waipouli kauai
straight out 1/8 mile...
waipouli surf club
only one out.
know the feeling.
gliding regally reef to reef
step off on the sand
nothing like that timeless feeling, eh?
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
just had that experience 2 days ago here on the Oregon coast
surfing an outer bar at the local, swell 7 @ 19
long paddle out, had to bust through a bunch on my 7'9, lotta work
got a nice deep one that linked up the sections
halfway back out the biggest sets of the morning came rolling in, apparently non-stop
soon found myself starting the hike up the beach back to the car