OK, you asked for him, and here he is. Remember your manners. You ask the questions, he, alone, answers them. Keep it civil and relevent. (This makes it easier to lure others into the hotseat.)
Larry, how did you get your start in shaping fins? Did you train under someone? Or just invent yourself into a stellar fin designer/maker?
Greg, I was actually hired to cut fins out with a jigsaw at 13 years old for a summer job at a surf shop that just opened in San Pedro. I picked up a grinder 6 months later to get the feel of foiling, My first attempts were hacking up pieces of fiberglass scraps. Mike Stavros who was my boss at the time and the guy that hired me was foiling Jeff Ho flex fins for Natural Progression Surfboards. I started out as a rough foiler to help Mike finish foiling the fins. In time I started finishing the fins completely myself.
Besides fiberglass cloth what other materials have you worked with for buildings fins and what did you like/hate about them?
Gdaddy, 4 or 6 oz dosen't matter with a plan shape like a Brewer type fin or Rudder type fin where twang (flex) isn't important. I prefer 7 1/2 oz because it gives me the best ratio of resin to glass for lighter weight and twang in a fin. Moderate saturation of resin is the best for a fin I feel to achieve best flex and weight combination.
I have made fins with exotic woods in the 70's. In the 80's I made fins with Clark Foam sheets and fiberglass 1st half for the surfboard Industry. In the mid 80's I started making fins with carbon and epoxy like G-10 for the Windsurf Industry. In the late 80's into the early 90's we started lightweight Honeycomb fins for Windsurf and Surfboard market.
I hated working with G-10 material after making Windsurfing fins in the late 80's into the early 90's.
Hi Larry, thanks for stepping into the hot seat! Do you have a website where people can purchase your fins?
If someone buys their fins from you, and gives you the details of the board they're intended for, will you give a suggested layout of fin placement?
And do you also design fins?
Huck, We sell mostly through online distributors like Fiberglasssupply.com or Paddleboardspecialists.com or my Facebook pages: 1) Fibre Glas Fin 2) Sup Race Fins 3) Larry W. Allison 4) Probox Finsystems 5) Click it Fins.
Yes I do tweak and design fins for others and myself Huck.
I have no problem helping people and companies with placement and designs Huck as you can see on my Facebook pages if you follow me.
Hi Larry,
Thanks for volunteering your time to answer some questions. I am a big fan of looking at the fin designs you post on your blog.
Do you mind describing any part of the process on how you guys decide where to put fins, say a quad setup, when you are doing a new fin design?
Also how sensitive do you think the placement is , for instance how much would move the rear fins in from the rail to get the board to respond differently?
Or do I have it backwards, and you choose a fin position and then alter the fins you put in the box?
Feel free to answer any or none of the questions, just looking for some of your intuition on fin placement.
Thanks!
Jason
Hi Larry, Thanks for volunteering your time to answer some questions. I am a big fan of looking at the fin designs you post on your blog. Do you mind describing any part of the process on how you guys decide where to put fins, say a quad setup, when you are doing a new fin design? Also how sensitive do you think the placement is , for instance how much would move the rear fins in from the rail to get the board to respond differently? Or do I have it backwards, and you choose a fin position and then alter the fins you put in the box? Feel free to answer any or none of the questions, just looking for some of your intuition on fin placement. Thanks! Jason
melikefish, This JC board came with Quad positions very similar to what people call the Mckee set-up, where the rear set of Twins are inset off the rail close to the center box. When the owner of this board was riding this board he was having problems with getting the board to respond quickly in a beach break surf condition. So I suggested to add another set of twins closer to the rail behind the front set of twins. In adding the outside boxes the board came to life and was quicker responding. With Probox finsystem we can also change the Cant of the fins in aiding the responding feel. This is very important in a Quad world to have this option for beach break to point break which would be different Cants for Drive and Turning. Placement is sensitive, I have learned this by retro fitting over 500 surfboards and now 300 Standup boards from their existing placements and getting rider feed back or by riding the before and after myself.
Larry-- so what's happening with Pro -Box ?? Still going strong?? What's the status. Also-- do you still make your 10.5 single box??? Lowel
McDing, Probox Finsystem as become the Finsystem of choice in the Standup world. In the surfboard world when FCS Fusion hit the market in 2008 the Probox sales dropped because of Glass over option. But because of the structure change and process Probox became a easier install to the boards of today. People screw up when installing Probox, when they install it like the other finsystems in a foam structure with no glass support. And I dont mean using mill fiber. I mean using a glass sock like the pic below.
Yes McDing, I do also make a 10" fin box called Hi Surf.
Thanks for the reply Larry - I never go on facebook, so completely missed your presence there. Didn't you used to have a website or blog with updates on what you're up to - is that still going? I do buy from fiberglass supply dot com, and love that they carry your product.
(Along with Lowel's question) Does ProBox make single fins and single fin boxes?
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
Thanks for the reply Larry - I never go on facebook, so completely missed your presence there. Didn't you used to have a website or blog with updates on what you're up to - is that still going? I do buy from fiberglass supply dot com, and love that they carry your product.
(Along with Lowel's question) Does ProBox make single fins and single fin boxes?
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
Yes Huck, I do have Blogs that I probably should update but with Facebook and Instragram people follow there first it seems like. The Blogs I use mainly to date my designs and ideas especially in the standupfinsbylarryallison.blogspot.com which supports me with the companies who bought the riders I had earlier on to legitimate themselfs so they think, LOL!
Probox Finsystems is part of Fibre Glas Fin so no need to call our single fins Probox which is a Finsystem brand. Other companies piggy backed into the market with Finsystems then added single fins as a after thought to gain market share. But at the end of the day they are still a shipping system and not a fin company, perfect example is FCS changing their name to Surf Hardware.
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
[/quote
Here are some pics of what I am doing now Huck! I paddle alot for fun and in some Races!
Probox Twins for Sup Race Boards and Surfboards for Infinity Surfboards!
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
Huck, I also created a movement with understanding multiple fins on Raceboards using ProBox Finsystems like you see here on this Infinity Raceboard and with other companies.
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
I'm wondering if you've been experimenting with different foil profiles.
If so, to what extend and do you mind sharing some findings?
I'd imagine that you've been experimenting with the location of the tickest point along the chord?
Do you find any differences between foils for windsurfing and traditional surfing?
I really admire your work, thanks for being here!
Hans
Hans, Yes I do play with different foils depending on application. The Ninja fin is a perfect example. The Ninja Blade which is the G-10 with Red vertical fin below I designed in 1988, which is 7/16" thick for Windsurfing. The Ninja Weed from that same time frame I brought back in 2007 like in the pics below of the 3 colorful ones at 3/8" thick for Standup Paddling.
The Windsurfing Pointer Blade at 7/16" thick with a 45 percent leading edge foil and 65 percent trailing edge foil tracked straight while pushing water at that thickness which is what you want at high speed to have control with very little tip deflection. In the Standup world taking the same Ninja shape going to a thinner foiler of 3/8" with the same foil break down had less resistance threw water at low speeds which went faster than the thicker foil of Windsurfing. Note Important: By changing the foil thickness it also changed the flex dynamics. Thicker foil in Windsurfing less deflection able to point and hold better. Thinner foil for Standup Paddling good hold with a deeper plan shape with more flex which reacted like having a smaller fin of 2" less on your Standup Board which carried high volume went faster.
As for moving the foiling section around I will explain that in answering gdady question about thicker foil from front to back.
Thanks Hans for the kind words. Always find your projects unreal my friend.
I visited your shop once a couple years back and we got to talking about fin designs, specifically about singlefins. You commented about the evolution of the templates and specifically how the rake evolved through the 50s, 60s and 70s. Could you expound a little one that?
I'm also interested in your opinions about fat fins; like 1/2" thick bases; and about fins with the more forward foils.
I visited your shop once a couple years back and we got to talking about fin designs, specifically about singlefins. You commented about the evolution of the templates and specifically how the rake evolved through the 50s, 60s and 70s. Could you expound a little one that?
I'm also interested in your opinions about fat fins; like 1/2" thick bases; and about fins with the more forward foils.
Gdady, Not sure I understand the first part of this question about Rake or are you referring to plan shapes?
As for thicker foils, are more reactive on boards that have more momentum but slow on boards with less momentum. A thicker leading edge like this Joe Aaron fin (Hot Curl) outline is better for quick response and tightening up the fin from flexing laterally for projection, same like a Paul Gross fin foil on a narrower outline design.
I was wondering if you could give some insight into how you are laying up your panels. Do you lam up all sheets at once? Do them in stages? Do put a release agent down on the surface you are working on? I am just beginning to play around with fins & would love to hear your process for making the panels. Thanks
I was wondering if you could give some insight into how you are laying up your panels. Do you lam up all sheets at once? Do them in stages? Do put a release agent down on the surface you are working on? I am just beginning to play around with fins & would love to hear your process for making the panels. Thanks
We lay up the panel all at one time. Adding Harder to the resin at different stages of the lamination for working time to do this. Yes you do put down a releasing agent to pop the panel.
If you are talking about Twin fins, scribe the template and flip it to duplicate your flat surface.
If you are talking about foiling a single fin center, read the fiber glas lines from each side and try holding the grinder at the same angle when foiling. This takes practice over time!
A short video of me working! Enjoy! Yes I still get in the sand pit!LOL
What kind of tool / pad are you using in that video?
Nice to hear from you Chris, the sanding Pad in the video is a Power Pad not a Flex Pad which is a Plastis Cheap imtation of a Power Pad that guys are selling for a cheaper price. The machine is Hitachi, but discontinued the model in the video!
Larry , love the Sparky and rarely use anything else on my 8 foot and up boards. I need you to make me a white glass on for a restoration. I have the template . Let me know when you are doing a white panel and I will make time to bring it by. Dont know if you heard but another one of our 70s surf crew has passed on. Probably have not talked to you since the last paddle out at TB.
Larry , love the Sparky and rarely use anything else on my 8 foot and up boards. I need you to make me a white glass on for a restoration. I have the template . Let me know when you are doing a white panel and I will make time to bring it by. Dont know if you heard but another one of our 70s surf crew has passed on. Probably have not talked to you since the last paddle out at TB.
I have White coming thru this week for Arrow Surfboards. PM me and I will make it happen for you my friend.
Didn't hear about another passing which is driving me crazy. I enjoy talking and spending time with you guys and my friends because our time is short here on this beautiful planet. Stay healthy my friend!
Larry, You have become very involved with Stand Up Paddleboarding. Since I am now on the gulf coast of Florida. I do alot of flat water boarding in the gulf. Minor chop and wind. My question is for the un-race boards what fins would improve the tracking of my board?
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According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
Larry, You have become very involved with Stand Up Paddleboarding. Since I am now on the gulf coast of Florida. I do alot of flat water boarding in the gulf. Minor chop and wind. My question is for the un-race boards what fins would improve the tracking of my board?
What do you do to get all the glass dust off your body when you work in short sleeves and shorts?
Sharkcountry, I dont sweat alot so my pores dont get effected like some from fiber glass dust. I air myself off and take a cool not warm shower and you are good to go. Hot shower will allow your body to react with the dust and when putting on a polyester material shirt you will go crazy.
Mahalo Larry, I sweat a lot, so if I'm sanding glass I like to cover up. Even then the dust gets into areas where didn't cover up good. I use a soft bathing brush when I shower and that seems to help quite a bit. Do the brush on the exposed areas first then shower as usual. Fins are not on my list of things I like doing, glad there are people like you who do it for us.
One more thing, I don't know why, but I've torn out Proboxes on several boards in the last year. They were all in EPS or XPS boards. In one board I don't recall hitting anything and it broke loose from the foam. I've only lost one box, but that was because I fell right on the fins. I've had this happen to 4 boards total but 3 since last October. Going forward, I am going to add support in the foam under the glass.
One other thing I remember from talking with you is your comment that many box/plug failures are actually the results of the surrounding foam moving around as opposed to the box itself failing in isolation to the rest of the blank. I've been using 4# PU foam inserts and collars for my installs because of that. My question is where do you think the point of diminishing returns is for foam density around a box or plug? At what point should I not bother to reinforce the blank for a plug or box install?
Related to that question, I've also been doing rout-in fin installs: install HD plug insert into the blank prior to shaping, then shape, glass and finish the board and do the rout-in install last. It allows me to tie the fin install to the deck lam and use deeper and longer fin tabs that have more contact area with the foam.
I would imgaine you have experience with that sort of thing so again, where do you think lies the point of diminishing returns for the foam inserts? If I just skipped the insert and did the rout-in to a standard weight PU blank do you think that would be sufficient, or is that risky?
One other thing I remember from talking with you is your comment that many box/plug failures are actually the results of the surrounding foam moving around as opposed to the box itself failing in isolation to the rest of the blank. I've been using 4# PU foam inserts and collars for my installs because of that. My question is where do you think the point of diminishing returns is for foam density around a box or plug? At what point should I not bother to reinforce the blank for a plug or box install?
Related to that question, I've also been doing rout-in fin installs: install HD plug insert into the blank prior to shaping, then shape, glass and finish the board and do the rout-in install last. It allows me to tie the fin install to the deck lam and use deeper and longer fin tabs that have more contact area with the foam.
I would imgaine you have experience with that sort of thing so again, where do you think lies the point of diminishing returns for the foam inserts? If I just skipped the insert and did the rout-in to a standard weight PU blank do you think that would be sufficient, or is that risky?
OK I am back, had a big order go to Oz for Surf and Standup Racing deadlines to meet last week. Back to finish the question Flang or Not for Gdaddy, sharkcountry and Magentawave. Lets do a little history first so you guys get it, which I am sure some of you do because you are pretty sharp. Let's see who gets this right! The question I am going to ask you guys is: WHY and When did a Flang come into play in the surfboard world? I am talking Flang and not Glass over! Ok my friends share in!
1) Are you familiar with how Joe Blair of Joe Blair Surfboards in Solana Beach places his fins (thrusters and quads) a lot farther forward than most? What do you think about that?
2) What is the reason you decided to make Probox a post-glass system as opposed to pre-glass like all the rest?
3) I know you don't like the FlexPad and you own Power Pad (I think), but for someone on a budget, what do you think about the Ferro 8" yellow Medium sanding pad?
Larry I will be getting a new ride some time this summer my touring board will most likly be a Riviera Voyager 12 foot. My current board for touring is a cheap displacement hull that does not track well at all. The Voyager is much better. My long range goal is to join a group that does multi day trips with camping gear in the Everglades.
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According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
Larry I will be getting a new ride some time this summer my touring board will most likly be a Riviera Voyager 12 foot. My current board for touring is a cheap displacement hull that does not track well at all. The Voyager is much better. My long range goal is to join a group that does multi day trips with camping gear in the Everglades.
Artz, In the Riviera we have a fin called the Voyager which is a composite version of this Gladiator Elite.
Also paddling long range, adding a Allison Ventral Front fin is a must for stability and ease of paddling long distance.
Larry, could you please discuss the advantages of a flex fin vs. a stiff fin, and what applications one might be preferred over the other.
Ok I will move around alittle and answer some comments about flex before I go back and talk more about installs of Fin Boxes.
phebus, I will take 3 industries that I know and do, Surfing, Windsurfing and Standup Paddling and explain flex to no flex.
Starting with Surfing. Looking at the Greg Liddle fin, you will see a black line that I drew on the side of the fin which shows what we call the Spine of a fin (Chore thickness). The proper way of a flex fin to work is not to flex down pass the top third section of any fin plan shape. If the fin flexs greater than the third of the plan shape then the board becomes the dominate factor and loss of project and control of the board is the end result. Another thing that is important in a flex fin is that the foil (Spine) is not flat so your fin will twist flex(S-Flex) for projection when coming out of your turn. If your fin has a flat foil which laterally flexs then your board has lack of projection and NO drive out of the turn. Greg Liddle talks about this on his website. Flex of a fin will also change by structure make up. When you lay up a fin panel with a 4 or 5 oz lay-up which is common for overseas production due to the fact that a CNC foil process is used it needs a denser lay-up to cut (foil) the fin. Because the cutting end of the CNC machine will take chunks out of the fin with a larger weave like 7 1/2 oz or 8 oz lay-up. The larger weave is what gives you the best Spine and S Flex which is what we do along with being lighter than a dense lay-up which has more of a lateral flex softer along with a heavier feel. Another Structure make up is the composite fin with honey cone core and carbon. These fins are nice in look but poor in drive and strenght, just another way of making a fin with all the buzz words and charging you the end user alot of money for a Egg Shell Fin. A regular fin of this same plan shape with no flex will make the board slower in response but work better in bigger surf with more water movement for down the line drive.
Now we will talk about the Flex of the Ninja Windsurf Fin I designed in 1987. In windsurfing where you are traveling at higher speeds, you want a solid bottom end support of your fin for projection and hold along with a slight tip release to keep the fin engaged with the water. If the Windsurfing Fin is stiff then you will create to much lift at high speeds disengaging from the water with no warning and loose control of your board in simple term.
Now we will go to one of my newest designs in the Standup World called the Stealth Ninja. In the Standup world tip flex is like a pressure release value. What I mean by that is that the release is part of glide and speed feel in a Standup World. If your fin laterally flexs pass the tip or top third part of the fin, you will loose stabilty along with forward projection. A stiff fin in the standup world will cause your board to have a governor feel or the feeling of toeing something along with lack of forward projection. Not to get confused with weight of a fin in water which companies talk about that I think is a big joke, because who can feel the difference of a couple of ozs in water LOL!
I've used Pro Box on quite a few boards. I like the convenience of the inserts to change the cant of the fin.I have also retro fitted another system with the Pro Box and you would never know the board had any different system in it. I have only used PU foam and have never had any failures to date. If anyone has pics of a failure I would be curious to check it out. Thanks.
I really like the Probox system. I still have more boxes and hope to never have the problem of them breaking loose again. In the mean time, I just fix them and add a layer of cloth (like a deck or tail patch) over them. I'm laying a small patch over the boxes on all my boards these days, even the long center boxes.
All my boards uses FCS or probox type side fins. An 8' fun gun with 4 proboxes and long center box is the recipe for a one board quiver for the older guy. You could change the fin set endlessly and be riding what seems like a different of board every time.
I really like the Probox system. I still have more boxes and hope to never have the problem of them breaking loose again. In the mean time, I just fix them and add a layer of cloth (like a deck or tail patch) over them. I'm laying a small patch over the boxes on all my boards these days, even the long center boxes.
All my boards uses FCS or probox type side fins. An 8' fun gun with 4 proboxes and long center box is the recipe for a one board quiver for the older guy. You could change the fin set endlessly and be riding what seems like a different of board every time.
Sharkcountry, Here's a Probox done in a EPS board without a Fiber glass sock. I will answer your's and gdaddy's question alittle more in deapth later today with some pics.
Larry, how did you get your start in shaping fins? Did you train under someone? Or just invent yourself into a stellar fin designer/maker?
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
Greg, I was actually hired to cut fins out with a jigsaw at 13 years old for a summer job at a surf shop that just opened in San Pedro. I picked up a grinder 6 months later to get the feel of foiling, My first attempts were hacking up pieces of fiberglass scraps. Mike Stavros who was my boss at the time and the guy that hired me was foiling Jeff Ho flex fins for Natural Progression Surfboards. I started out as a rough foiler to help Mike finish foiling the fins. In time I started finishing the fins completely myself.
Hi Larry,
(just for starters)
4oz vs 6oz for fins?
Resin rich or resin lean, and why?
Besides fiberglass cloth what other materials have you worked with for buildings fins and what did you like/hate about them?
Gdaddy, 4 or 6 oz dosen't matter with a plan shape like a Brewer type fin or Rudder type fin where twang (flex) isn't important. I prefer 7 1/2 oz because it gives me the best ratio of resin to glass for lighter weight and twang in a fin. Moderate saturation of resin is the best for a fin I feel to achieve best flex and weight combination.
I have made fins with exotic woods in the 70's. In the 80's I made fins with Clark Foam sheets and fiberglass 1st half for the surfboard Industry. In the mid 80's I started making fins with carbon and epoxy like G-10 for the Windsurf Industry. In the late 80's into the early 90's we started lightweight Honeycomb fins for Windsurf and Surfboard market.
I hated working with G-10 material after making Windsurfing fins in the late 80's into the early 90's.
Hi Larry, thanks for stepping into the hot seat! Do you have a website where people can purchase your fins?
If someone buys their fins from you, and gives you the details of the board they're intended for, will you give a suggested layout of fin placement?
And do you also design fins?
Huck, We sell mostly through online distributors like Fiberglasssupply.com or Paddleboardspecialists.com or my Facebook pages: 1) Fibre Glas Fin 2) Sup Race Fins 3) Larry W. Allison 4) Probox Finsystems 5) Click it Fins.
Yes I do tweak and design fins for others and myself Huck.
I have no problem helping people and companies with placement and designs Huck as you can see on my Facebook pages if you follow me.
Hope that helps my friend.
melikefish, This JC board came with Quad positions very similar to what people call the Mckee set-up, where the rear set of Twins are inset off the rail close to the center box. When the owner of this board was riding this board he was having problems with getting the board to respond quickly in a beach break surf condition. So I suggested to add another set of twins closer to the rail behind the front set of twins. In adding the outside boxes the board came to life and was quicker responding. With Probox finsystem we can also change the Cant of the fins in aiding the responding feel. This is very important in a Quad world to have this option for beach break to point break which would be different Cants for Drive and Turning. Placement is sensitive, I have learned this by retro fitting over 500 surfboards and now 300 Standup boards from their existing placements and getting rider feed back or by riding the before and after myself.
ProBox Fins new 007.jpg
ProBox Fins new 016.jpg
Larry-- so what's happening with Pro -Box ?? Still going strong?? What's the status. Also-- do you still make your 10.5 single box??? Lowel
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
McDing, Probox Finsystem as become the Finsystem of choice in the Standup world. In the surfboard world when FCS Fusion hit the market in 2008 the Probox sales dropped because of Glass over option. But because of the structure change and process Probox became a easier install to the boards of today. People screw up when installing Probox, when they install it like the other finsystems in a foam structure with no glass support. And I dont mean using mill fiber. I mean using a glass sock like the pic below.
Yes McDing, I do also make a 10" fin box called Hi Surf.
Pb install 13.jpg
Thanks for the reply Larry - I never go on facebook, so completely missed your presence there. Didn't you used to have a website or blog with updates on what you're up to - is that still going? I do buy from fiberglass supply dot com, and love that they carry your product.
(Along with Lowel's question) Does ProBox make single fins and single fin boxes?
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
Yes Huck, I do have Blogs that I probably should update but with Facebook and Instragram people follow there first it seems like. The Blogs I use mainly to date my designs and ideas especially in the standupfinsbylarryallison.blogspot.com which supports me with the companies who bought the riders I had earlier on to legitimate themselfs so they think, LOL!
Probox Finsystems is part of Fibre Glas Fin so no need to call our single fins Probox which is a Finsystem brand. Other companies piggy backed into the market with Finsystems then added single fins as a after thought to gain market share. But at the end of the day they are still a shipping system and not a fin company, perfect example is FCS changing their name to Surf Hardware.
[quote=Huck]
Also, can you post up some pics of your current stuff, we love pictures here on swaylocks! Feel free to advertise your wares in this thread, its completely appropriate here.
[/quote
Here are some pics of what I am doing now Huck! I paddle alot for fun and in some Races!
Probox Twins for Sup Race Boards and Surfboards for Infinity Surfboards!
la looking down.JPG
carbon twins.jpg
•Pheonix_V3-620x877.jpg
Huck, I also created a movement with understanding multiple fins on Raceboards using ProBox Finsystems like you see here on this Infinity Raceboard and with other companies.
Brendan light Dana.jpg
Echo Twin 2.jpg
click it 3.jpg
Somemore goodies Huck!
Click it floral.jpg
click it fins.jpg
Fin selection.jpg
I will be back to answer your questions my friends, had a house full yesterday.
Hi Larry,
I'm wondering if you've been experimenting with different foil profiles.
If so, to what extend and do you mind sharing some findings?
I'd imagine that you've been experimenting with the location of the tickest point along the chord?
Do you find any differences between foils for windsurfing and traditional surfing?
I really admire your work, thanks for being here!
Hans
finFoil: free fin designing software
http://www.finfoil.io
https://www.instagram.com/finfoil/
https://app.finfoil.io
Hans, Yes I do play with different foils depending on application. The Ninja fin is a perfect example. The Ninja Blade which is the G-10 with Red vertical fin below I designed in 1988, which is 7/16" thick for Windsurfing. The Ninja Weed from that same time frame I brought back in 2007 like in the pics below of the 3 colorful ones at 3/8" thick for Standup Paddling.
The Windsurfing Pointer Blade at 7/16" thick with a 45 percent leading edge foil and 65 percent trailing edge foil tracked straight while pushing water at that thickness which is what you want at high speed to have control with very little tip deflection. In the Standup world taking the same Ninja shape going to a thinner foiler of 3/8" with the same foil break down had less resistance threw water at low speeds which went faster than the thicker foil of Windsurfing. Note Important: By changing the foil thickness it also changed the flex dynamics. Thicker foil in Windsurfing less deflection able to point and hold better. Thinner foil for Standup Paddling good hold with a deeper plan shape with more flex which reacted like having a smaller fin of 2" less on your Standup Board which carried high volume went faster.
As for moving the foiling section around I will explain that in answering gdady question about thicker foil from front to back.
Thanks Hans for the kind words. Always find your projects unreal my friend.
windsurf 001.jpg
ninja carbon.jpg
Larry if you were stranded on a Desert Island with one short board and One Longboard what fin set up and fins would you want on your boards?
According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
Artz, Very clever question my friend.
Single fin would be a Sparkey, because of it's large range of performance dynamics.
For multiple fin set-up GT style fins, due to hold and drive dynamics.
brown.jpg
chris hull tak fins.jpg
Okay, here's another question about fin design:
I visited your shop once a couple years back and we got to talking about fin designs, specifically about singlefins. You commented about the evolution of the templates and specifically how the rake evolved through the 50s, 60s and 70s. Could you expound a little one that?
I'm also interested in your opinions about fat fins; like 1/2" thick bases; and about fins with the more forward foils.
Gdady, Not sure I understand the first part of this question about Rake or are you referring to plan shapes?
As for thicker foils, are more reactive on boards that have more momentum but slow on boards with less momentum. A thicker leading edge like this Joe Aaron fin (Hot Curl) outline is better for quick response and tightening up the fin from flexing laterally for projection, same like a Paul Gross fin foil on a narrower outline design.
joe click.jpg
Hey Larry,
I was wondering if you could give some insight into how you are laying up your panels. Do you lam up all sheets at once? Do them in stages? Do put a release agent down on the surface you are working on? I am just beginning to play around with fins & would love to hear your process for making the panels. Thanks
We lay up the panel all at one time. Adding Harder to the resin at different stages of the lamination for working time to do this. Yes you do put down a releasing agent to pop the panel.
Hey Larry,
Thanks for taking the time
and so freely givin' advise.
The burning question for me would be
How or what do you do in hand foiling
to achieve consistant "inside foil" fins.
Thanking you forward.
God Bless
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
If you are talking about Twin fins, scribe the template and flip it to duplicate your flat surface.
If you are talking about foiling a single fin center, read the fiber glas lines from each side and try holding the grinder at the same angle when foiling. This takes practice over time!
A short video of me working! Enjoy! Yes I still get in the sand pit!LOL
https://www.facebook.com/larry.w.allison/videos/vb.1626125184/1020314602...
North Shore style !
Paper mask with facial hair filter . ;-)
Hi Larry,
What kind of tool / pad are you using in that video?
Nice to hear from you Chris, the sanding Pad in the video is a Power Pad not a Flex Pad which is a Plastis Cheap imtation of a Power Pad that guys are selling for a cheaper price. The machine is Hitachi, but discontinued the model in the video!
new_power_pad.jpg
Larry , love the Sparky and rarely use anything else on my 8 foot and up boards. I need you to make me a white glass on for a restoration. I have the template . Let me know when you are doing a white panel and I will make time to bring it by. Dont know if you heard but another one of our 70s surf crew has passed on. Probably have not talked to you since the last paddle out at TB.
Mickey
I have White coming thru this week for Arrow Surfboards. PM me and I will make it happen for you my friend.
Didn't hear about another passing which is driving me crazy. I enjoy talking and spending time with you guys and my friends because our time is short here on this beautiful planet. Stay healthy my friend!
Larry, You have become very involved with Stand Up Paddleboarding. Since I am now on the gulf coast of Florida. I do alot of flat water boarding in the gulf. Minor chop and wind. My question is for the un-race boards what fins would improve the tracking of my board?
According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
What kind of Board are you touring on my friend!
change the rule.jpg
What do you do to get all the glass dust off your body when you work in short sleeves and shorts?
Sharkcountry, I dont sweat alot so my pores dont get effected like some from fiber glass dust. I air myself off and take a cool not warm shower and you are good to go. Hot shower will allow your body to react with the dust and when putting on a polyester material shirt you will go crazy.
Mahalo Larry, I sweat a lot, so if I'm sanding glass I like to cover up. Even then the dust gets into areas where didn't cover up good. I use a soft bathing brush when I shower and that seems to help quite a bit. Do the brush on the exposed areas first then shower as usual. Fins are not on my list of things I like doing, glad there are people like you who do it for us.
Hi Larry,
What kind of tool and pad are you using in this video?
https://www.facebook.com/larry.w.allison/videos/vb.1626125184/1020314602...
One more thing, I don't know why, but I've torn out Proboxes on several boards in the last year. They were all in EPS or XPS boards. In one board I don't recall hitting anything and it broke loose from the foam. I've only lost one box, but that was because I fell right on the fins. I've had this happen to 4 boards total but 3 since last October. Going forward, I am going to add support in the foam under the glass.
Speaking of supporting the box....
One other thing I remember from talking with you is your comment that many box/plug failures are actually the results of the surrounding foam moving around as opposed to the box itself failing in isolation to the rest of the blank. I've been using 4# PU foam inserts and collars for my installs because of that. My question is where do you think the point of diminishing returns is for foam density around a box or plug? At what point should I not bother to reinforce the blank for a plug or box install?
Related to that question, I've also been doing rout-in fin installs: install HD plug insert into the blank prior to shaping, then shape, glass and finish the board and do the rout-in install last. It allows me to tie the fin install to the deck lam and use deeper and longer fin tabs that have more contact area with the foam.
I would imgaine you have experience with that sort of thing so again, where do you think lies the point of diminishing returns for the foam inserts? If I just skipped the insert and did the rout-in to a standard weight PU blank do you think that would be sufficient, or is that risky?
OK I am back, had a big order go to Oz for Surf and Standup Racing deadlines to meet last week. Back to finish the question Flang or Not for Gdaddy, sharkcountry and Magentawave. Lets do a little history first so you guys get it, which I am sure some of you do because you are pretty sharp. Let's see who gets this right! The question I am going to ask you guys is: WHY and When did a Flang come into play in the surfboard world? I am talking Flang and not Glass over! Ok my friends share in!
Kings done.jpg
Larry,
1) Are you familiar with how Joe Blair of Joe Blair Surfboards in Solana Beach places his fins (thrusters and quads) a lot farther forward than most? What do you think about that?
2) What is the reason you decided to make Probox a post-glass system as opposed to pre-glass like all the rest?
3) I know you don't like the FlexPad and you own Power Pad (I think), but for someone on a budget, what do you think about the Ferro 8" yellow Medium sanding pad?
Thanks.
Larry I will be getting a new ride some time this summer my touring board will most likly be a Riviera Voyager 12 foot. My current board for touring is a cheap displacement hull that does not track well at all. The Voyager is much better. My long range goal is to join a group that does multi day trips with camping gear in the Everglades.
According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
[quote=artz]
Larry I will be getting a new ride some time this summer my touring board will most likly be a Riviera Voyager 12 foot. My current board for touring is a cheap displacement hull that does not track well at all. The Voyager is much better. My long range goal is to join a group that does multi day trips with camping gear in the Everglades.
Artz, In the Riviera we have a fin called the Voyager which is a composite version of this Gladiator Elite.
Also paddling long range, adding a Allison Ventral Front fin is a must for stability and ease of paddling long distance.
15' MHL.jpg
gladiator in Dubai.jpg
Larry, could you please discuss the advantages of a flex fin vs. a stiff fin, and what applications one might be preferred over the other.
I will come back to you later today my friend. Need to get some work done at the fin factory early part of today.
Flex fins.jpg
Ok I will move around alittle and answer some comments about flex before I go back and talk more about installs of Fin Boxes.
phebus, I will take 3 industries that I know and do, Surfing, Windsurfing and Standup Paddling and explain flex to no flex.
Starting with Surfing. Looking at the Greg Liddle fin, you will see a black line that I drew on the side of the fin which shows what we call the Spine of a fin (Chore thickness). The proper way of a flex fin to work is not to flex down pass the top third section of any fin plan shape. If the fin flexs greater than the third of the plan shape then the board becomes the dominate factor and loss of project and control of the board is the end result. Another thing that is important in a flex fin is that the foil (Spine) is not flat so your fin will twist flex(S-Flex) for projection when coming out of your turn. If your fin has a flat foil which laterally flexs then your board has lack of projection and NO drive out of the turn. Greg Liddle talks about this on his website. Flex of a fin will also change by structure make up. When you lay up a fin panel with a 4 or 5 oz lay-up which is common for overseas production due to the fact that a CNC foil process is used it needs a denser lay-up to cut (foil) the fin. Because the cutting end of the CNC machine will take chunks out of the fin with a larger weave like 7 1/2 oz or 8 oz lay-up. The larger weave is what gives you the best Spine and S Flex which is what we do along with being lighter than a dense lay-up which has more of a lateral flex softer along with a heavier feel. Another Structure make up is the composite fin with honey cone core and carbon. These fins are nice in look but poor in drive and strenght, just another way of making a fin with all the buzz words and charging you the end user alot of money for a Egg Shell Fin. A regular fin of this same plan shape with no flex will make the board slower in response but work better in bigger surf with more water movement for down the line drive.
Now we will talk about the Flex of the Ninja Windsurf Fin I designed in 1987. In windsurfing where you are traveling at higher speeds, you want a solid bottom end support of your fin for projection and hold along with a slight tip release to keep the fin engaged with the water. If the Windsurfing Fin is stiff then you will create to much lift at high speeds disengaging from the water with no warning and loose control of your board in simple term.
Now we will go to one of my newest designs in the Standup World called the Stealth Ninja. In the Standup world tip flex is like a pressure release value. What I mean by that is that the release is part of glide and speed feel in a Standup World. If your fin laterally flexs pass the tip or top third part of the fin, you will loose stabilty along with forward projection. A stiff fin in the standup world will cause your board to have a governor feel or the feeling of toeing something along with lack of forward projection. Not to get confused with weight of a fin in water which companies talk about that I think is a big joke, because who can feel the difference of a couple of ozs in water LOL!
tip flex.jpg
I've used Pro Box on quite a few boards. I like the convenience of the inserts to change the cant of the fin.I have also retro fitted another system with the Pro Box and you would never know the board had any different system in it. I have only used PU foam and have never had any failures to date. If anyone has pics of a failure I would be curious to check it out. Thanks.
Mickey
I really like the Probox system. I still have more boxes and hope to never have the problem of them breaking loose again. In the mean time, I just fix them and add a layer of cloth (like a deck or tail patch) over them. I'm laying a small patch over the boxes on all my boards these days, even the long center boxes.
All my boards uses FCS or probox type side fins. An 8' fun gun with 4 proboxes and long center box is the recipe for a one board quiver for the older guy. You could change the fin set endlessly and be riding what seems like a different of board every time.
Sharkcountry, Here's a Probox done in a EPS board without a Fiber glass sock. I will answer your's and gdaddy's question alittle more in deapth later today with some pics.
probox no glass.jpg
hi Larry !
what is your favourite fin setup at [if there is one?] your favourite wave ?
and , why ?
cheers
ben
*************************************************** http://www.benchipper.blogspot.com.au/
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