I don't really "chat" with anyone about my planned shapes, other than here on Swaylocks. So I guess we're chatting right now, along with anyone else who cares to join in, ha! I take what I can from the posts of those who's work I admire, but don't really seek to get more than they are willing to reveal online. I like to share what I learn here, and am not seeking proprietary or "secret" information, i.e. I'm not trying to get special insights that I would have to keep secret, to me that is counter to my reason for participating here.
Yep, that's fair enough, and you've been completely upfront about your position on that, so anyone deciding to give you a few pointers will be aware of how any info they provide will be treated, and can provide their guidance accordingly.
I wasn't suggesting anyone give away any deep dark secrets, just (if they felt so inclined), to give you a few pointers to get you heading in the right direction so you can keep enjoying your surfing, and getting the most out of it. Thats all.
“Yep, that's fair enough, and you've been completely upfront about your position on that, so anyone deciding to give you a few pointers will be aware of how any info they provide will be treated, and can provide their guidance accordingly.
I wasn't suggesting anyone give away any deep dark secrets, just (if they felt so inclined), to give you a few pointers to get you heading in the right direction so you can keep enjoying your surfing, and getting the most out of it. Thats all.”
Sorry
But the comment “anyone give away any deep dark secrets”
Just cut deep.
IMHO…
“There is nothing that has not be tried before”
It is the refinement of an existing idea.
And I might say there are more , eh ideas than I can handle!
So it is selective, my personal objectives (at this time)?
A quiver limited to:
5’-6” mush buster
5’-8” Groveler (currently in final sanding ).
5’ -10” Step up.
6’-0” Semi Gun (still testing, waves permitting)
6’-2” Gun (still testing, waves permitting)
8’-8”- 10’-0” HPLB.
There is a lot of work there.
But nothing “new”
Just building and testing
Or, an attempt at advancing a design.
It really comes down to this
IF and, really think about this…
The ancients passed down this art
From, lava rock and fire…
Remember to, that surfing was a close knit group.
And a local, could name everyone in the lineup.
Yeah, secrets???
Maybe around the late 30’s
Gard Chapin with maybe the first “S” deck
And Sykes' scarfed nose (more nose rocker in the plank days)
Since the Gidget explosion
I believe things only got worse.
My story is such that I went through the revolution
With enough skill and surfing ability
understand, surfer shapers are very observant.
And really should be considered spy’s
We see what works and we seek.
So unless you have a patent.
“”Blow it out your ass dude, cuz you work a Hardy’s” Dead Milkmen
BTW this is the Sin Bid.
Down here, exists a different sprit.
Of those willing to Share….
Here is a good spy photo of Skip Frye’s board (@ Huck HA!)
It started my blood pumping, again!
Been working on it since ’12 and getting somewhere!
Just gathering whatever intel is available through the Swaylocks gang, without asking for anyone's secret sauce. I'm basically just looking for a midlength or longboard good at paddling, trimming, and turning.
And I might say there are more , eh ideas than I can handle!
...
Just building and testing
Or, an attempt at advancing a design.
It really comes down to this
IF and, really think about this…
The ancients passed down this art
From, lava rock and fire…
Remember to, that surfing was a close knit group.
And a local, could name everyone in the lineup.
Yeah, secrets???
Maybe around the late 30’s
Gard Chapin with maybe the first “S” deck
And Sykes' scarfed nose (more nose rocker in the plank days)
Since the Gidget explosion
I believe things only got worse.
My story is such that I went through the revolution
With enough skill and surfing ability
understand, surfer shapers are very observant.
And really should be considered spy’s
We see what works and we seek.
So unless you have a patent...
Hey ya mattwho, some food for thought in your cryptic post. I respect anyone's right to share what they feel comfortable sharing, and hold back what they don't feel comfortable sharing. But I learn from what people share, and that's why I'm here.
Once the corporate interests took over the media, contests, and mass production of boards, it was kind of a foregone conclusion IMO that stagnation would follow. It is what it is, at least surfing itself is still fun!
I made a custom gun for a workmate, tried to get out of it but he begged and hounded me until I gave in. To hedge his bet he also ordered a custom from Glen - guess who's template Glen stole for his shape! Yah, I'll never get that template back lol. The guy I made the board for said it worked great, but he kinda soured on the board after a Swaylocks "bro" talked trash on me cuz of where I live.
Anyway, I'm perfectly happy with old school shapes, I try to look at shapes by function, not by era or fashion. If a shape works well for the guy riding it, all good, don't care of its in style, out of style, or made by a guy in timbucktoo. I do favor the small underground hand shaper, always, cuz like u I'm skeptical of "the man". Hah!
Probably not. It was a 10-6 plan shape I designed, with a narrow pulled in diamond tail. My friend had it, and showed it to Glen, who commented "he nailed it!" Glen used it to make his gun, I was frankly honored, but my friend said I'll probably never get it back, and I haven't. I have a photo of the two guns side by side, will post it up when I get a chance.
Yep, that's fair enough, and you've been completely upfront about your position on that, so anyone deciding to give you a few pointers will be aware of how any info they provide will be treated, and can provide their guidance accordingly.
I wasn't suggesting anyone give away any deep dark secrets, just (if they felt so inclined), to give you a few pointers to get you heading in the right direction so you can keep enjoying your surfing, and getting the most out of it. Thats all.
Cheers!
“Yep, that's fair enough, and you've been completely upfront about your position on that, so anyone deciding to give you a few pointers will be aware of how any info they provide will be treated, and can provide their guidance accordingly.
I wasn't suggesting anyone give away any deep dark secrets, just (if they felt so inclined), to give you a few pointers to get you heading in the right direction so you can keep enjoying your surfing, and getting the most out of it. Thats all.”
Sorry
But the comment “anyone give away any deep dark secrets”
Just cut deep.
IMHO…
“There is nothing that has not be tried before”
It is the refinement of an existing idea.
And I might say there are more , eh ideas than I can handle!
So it is selective, my personal objectives (at this time)?
A quiver limited to:
5’-6” mush buster
5’-8” Groveler (currently in final sanding ).
5’ -10” Step up.
6’-0” Semi Gun (still testing, waves permitting)
6’-2” Gun (still testing, waves permitting)
8’-8”- 10’-0” HPLB.
There is a lot of work there.
But nothing “new”
Just building and testing
Or, an attempt at advancing a design.
It really comes down to this
IF and, really think about this…
The ancients passed down this art
From, lava rock and fire…
Remember to, that surfing was a close knit group.
And a local, could name everyone in the lineup.
Yeah, secrets???
Maybe around the late 30’s
Gard Chapin with maybe the first “S” deck
And Sykes' scarfed nose (more nose rocker in the plank days)
Since the Gidget explosion
I believe things only got worse.
My story is such that I went through the revolution
With enough skill and surfing ability
understand, surfer shapers are very observant.
And really should be considered spy’s
We see what works and we seek.
So unless you have a patent.
“”Blow it out your ass dude, cuz you work a Hardy’s” Dead Milkmen
BTW this is the Sin Bid.
Down here, exists a different sprit.
Of those willing to Share….
Here is a good spy photo of Skip Frye’s board (@ Huck HA!)
It started my blood pumping, again!
Been working on it since ’12 and getting somewhere!
Jump in I’ll give up what little I know.
There are no problems
Only solutions
Aloha…
skip frye board.jpg
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
Just gathering whatever intel is available through the Swaylocks gang, without asking for anyone's secret sauce. I'm basically just looking for a midlength or longboard good at paddling, trimming, and turning.
Hey ya mattwho, some food for thought in your cryptic post. I respect anyone's right to share what they feel comfortable sharing, and hold back what they don't feel comfortable sharing. But I learn from what people share, and that's why I'm here.
Eh,
Nice Huck!
BTW, I mean no disrepect!
My rant was simply "surfing history"
We should never repeat mistakes that we are knowledgeable of.
That said,
Are you aware of how Greg Noll got the formula for foam outta Grubby Clark?
There is nothing new
This shit of robbing stuff has been going on for decades!
Let’s break this down a little.
Local shaper
Custom
for local conditions
and a loyal following.
And the better guys,
well you call it….
Eh, Greg Liddle made my first “Island quiver”
Then, Glen Kennedy.
Oh Shit!
I gave away that I’m “Valley Cowboy” (LMAO)
Any way
That leaves the rest.
The big labels with CNC machines
and all the other bells and whistles
dominate with worldwide wanna be cool
exception for the ones that can surf 'em.
I can only speak for myself….
I come from a time period where
We protested and fought against
“The establishment”
I am not saying that plagiarism is acceptable.
But if there Really was something new
and I saw the big lables concept.
I don't think I would lose any sleep
again that has really not happened,
yet
But I won't stop snoppin'..
Eh, one of these day's!
But honestly, you know me
I am, old, ugly and crazy.
Maybe, you missed it.
The revolution..
But I can die knowing I was blessed to have gone thru a time in surfing history
In those days, I surfed a “new concept” a least every month
The “Big” guys couldn’t change with the advances.
You know, I bailed in 81, yeah got a real job.
Finally slowed down enough to come back.
Really disappointed.
Real change is what I expected.
Outside of quads and single concaves
Nothing noteworthy had changed
Let’s see 2012 -1981 = 31 years!
Think about that….
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
That's an interesting history and perspective!
I did kinda miss it, as you say.
Once the corporate interests took over the media, contests, and mass production of boards, it was kind of a foregone conclusion IMO that stagnation would follow. It is what it is, at least surfing itself is still fun!
I made a custom gun for a workmate, tried to get out of it but he begged and hounded me until I gave in. To hedge his bet he also ordered a custom from Glen - guess who's template Glen stole for his shape! Yah, I'll never get that template back lol. The guy I made the board for said it worked great, but he kinda soured on the board after a Swaylocks "bro" talked trash on me cuz of where I live.
Anyway, I'm perfectly happy with old school shapes, I try to look at shapes by function, not by era or fashion. If a shape works well for the guy riding it, all good, don't care of its in style, out of style, or made by a guy in timbucktoo. I do favor the small underground hand shaper, always, cuz like u I'm skeptical of "the man". Hah!
carry on!
Probably not. It was a 10-6 plan shape I designed, with a narrow pulled in diamond tail. My friend had it, and showed it to Glen, who commented "he nailed it!" Glen used it to make his gun, I was frankly honored, but my friend said I'll probably never get it back, and I haven't. I have a photo of the two guns side by side, will post it up when I get a chance.
Yeah,
the soft underbelly of Sway's
Hey I didn't totally mean there was noting really noteworty...
Asym's and finless designs seem to have made progress
again the development of existing ideas.
Now back to you...
And all respect!
You under estimate yourself!
I KNOW if you put your mind to it
You can do a lot more than you think.
Hey in considering your Hanalei charger experience.
Really take it as a complement!
Maybe "they should have been up front"
But "that's life" F. Sinatra.
I can sort'a recall an old "story"
In the day of Pat Curren developing the big wave board (he was and is the man).
I believe it was Doyle or Del Canon that got Pat to skeetch and outline on the sidewalk outside his shop.
And came back an "lifted" it.
Don't know if any of it is really ture
but that's the influance I have always been under.
That was a long time ago
right or wrong
those poor guys were riding hotdog boards in heavy surf.
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
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