fcuk that was good
Hi Blaircafe it was a pleasure to meet you officially, and hear a bit of the backstory on your wood board - it looks awesome! Funny that we had talked and I just never put two and two together, ha! Randy hooked me up with these nice sequence shots...
I like this one
"in the hook"....
Ja catch Da Eddie?
Happy for Clyde 66!
I really jumped to my feet when I saw Kelleys 2nd board's fin set up!
Breaking out of the box
Derek Hynd? Why not???
How about Tom Curren?
Know this is dated and have seen the lastest.
My cup of tea indeed!
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
Clyde at 66 was amazing - very gutsy guy! That single fin he was riding didn't seem to be working for him all that well, 'tho. I was watching Nathan Fletcher on Stretch's fat boy Mavericks gun, it didn't seem to be working just right for him either, although he was getting in early. So hard to say if it was the board, or just having an off day. He did get some good waves too, just not the bombs required to win it, and he did have an epic wipeout on a HUGE wave. Kelly was very good, the guy picks his waves so carefully, he got the only real tube ride I saw, but not going for the bombs with reckless abandon like some of those guys. Mark Kelly, Koa Rothman, Twiggy Baker, some guys were just fearless taking off on completely unmakeable closeouts time and time again. Clyde took a horrendous beating on one wave too, it was painful to watch. Greg Long took a big lip on the head. Man, so many epic wipeouts, the waves were just barely makeable, and a lot of them completely unmakeable, with the wind up the face and the bumps and the way the waves were just jacking. Unbelievable the fearlessness of those guys.
Rode my Golden Standard the other day. I've been on quads for awhile now, the Gordita and the Banana Boat, but I wanted to switch things up a bit, so I took the single fin out. And guess what, my longtime favorite - I didn't like it! Took my Wing Squad (quad) out next couple days, and had a blast. Go figure.
Its a gray zone, seeking performance shapes for older guys. More volume? More length? More width? More rocker? Less rocker? Hard to pinpoint what exactly makes a board work for older guys, and its not the same for everyone. Seems like most older guys just gravitate to longboards, which is ok too, I like my longboards but honestly don't have a lot of longboard skills, but it wouldn't hurt me to work on them.
Talked to Hide (he's Asian, pronounced E-day) today, local ripper, age 60, he's riding a 5-10 Roberts! I told him he was giving me an inferiority complex! Another guy my age, Gary, was out there on a 10 footer! (he is admittedly a big guy 'tho). So at the end of the day, I'm trying to find what works for me. And I don't help matters by constantly switching up my ride. Lately I've been on my 9' glider, since I put the widowmaker sidebites in I've been wanting to see how it goes.
After seeing Hide on his little shortboard, maybe I'll go back to riding my 7-2 Gordita, or my 7-4 thruster.
Here is a picture of me on my Gordita, the picture in sequence before my (current) avatar pic. I was still pretty unfamiliar / uncomfortable with the board, one of my first few times out on it. You can see I'm standing too far back, I knew that when I took the drop, I could feel that I was, but its really clear in the pic. It needs to be ridden further forward, the volume distribution etc. is really designed to be ridden more centered, although it took that drop just fine. But like I say, it was still very new to me at the time of this pic, so I've been improving over time, but haven't ridden it much in the last month or so.
I kinda envy guys like Hide and Gary, they have like 2 or 3 boards and they are always on one of their regular boards. Me, I have like 20 plus boards and the shaper / designer in me cannot be content to stick to one or two, I'm always changing things up because I'm trying to learn how different designs surf differently. I feel it does hurt my surfing a little in the short run, maybe not so much in the long run. I have paddled out in some epic surf with a new board, and wished I had one of my old regulars when its pumping and crowded / aggro like that. The day pictured was one such day.
My current thinking for my next shape is going with a comparable thickness /rail / deck as the gordita, but a little shorter and narrower, and maybe a twin fin or twinzer quad. Not sure on the fins, but wanting to try something different. Even tho quads are my current favorite setup.
There is life in the "deep"!
AKA "the Bugz club".
I'll comment, not preach...
You are a brave man...
Ah, it is obvious more length will not hurt.
You are way back,
HPLBs such as the 8-8 are to be ridden hard, more like a shorter board.
That (the 8-8) board has nose mass and the outline to really swing it around.
If you have lost faith in the 8-8, Maybe, I’ll trade the “Hulk”…
No, not at all! I love the 8-8, it's in getting some dings repaired right now. That thing is a speed demon, for sure!
However, you gotta know I would trade in a heartbeat for the Hulk, cuz I fell in love with that beast the minute I laid eyes on it! Either way I'm a happy camper, but let me know if you're serious about parting with the Hulk. Heck, I'd be happy even with a temporary trade, just to get some face time on the hulk!
I think the problem on that wave is that just coming off the Banana Boat, I was used to a certain amount of board in front of me, and I just went with it by reflex.
And it's funny you say more length would not hurt, I was thinking maybe I went a bit too long on it, lol. Although like I say, I got it much more wired after several sessions. I just loaded up the car, taking the 7-4 green frog and the Gordita tomorrow!
Took the 7-4 green frog out, had a blast! I mean I didn't impress anyone, haha, but got plenty of waves and a few good turns in. This is the board Rich hated, but it was working for me today, I'm thinking of sticking with it for a bit to see if I can handle the relatively smaller size (volume). Cuz it felt fast and responsive, I'd really like to see if I could get comfortable on it. Stoked! Maybe try some different fins eventually.