I agree. Sometimes we get caught between just being a surfer, wanting to paddle out on our favorite / comfortable board, vs being a shaper / team rider (for ourself), and paddling out on the new or unproven shape we don't feel so sure about. Which is to say, I've had to force myself to stick with the WS lately, when my inclination was to the GS. In spite of all the things I've said about volume, I have to supress the impulse to say this board has just too much volume, and grab the other board.
Yet time and again, I paddle out on it and end up having a great session. Friday was no exception, other than to say the crowd made it a little tougher than usual. Pulled up in the darkness, and cars were already lining PCH along the beach. By the time I suited up and headed to the water, still dark but the horizon just starting to lighten a tinge, there was already a thick swarm of black silhouettes barely visible in the lineup. There was a little swell, a little size, and the word had gotten out. Everyone got the memo. So I was thinking, this is a chance to see if this board can really be the equalizer I'm starting to view it as, and wondering if I would even score a wave in the pack. Some really nice sets coming through, head high, but several guys going for every wave. I paddled a bit north of the thickest part, and waited for some sets.
Ended up getting several waves, got worked more than once since I was taking off behind the peak of a lot of them. Before the sun even came up I was a little tired, feeling my age as they say, I had a half dozen waves to my account, a couple of them good ones, but none were the wave-of-the-day variety. Still, enough to say the board was still working for me, and still allowing me to get in early and claim a wave in a crowd, no small accomplishment for the old guy from the sticks. And I noticed on the bigger faces I didn't need to walk the board as much as I did in the smaller stuff, I was able to navigate pretty well from one spot, just had to walk a bit if it walled up and got steep inside.
There was no one around me on the paddle back out, so I felt comfortable just to bail and rely on the leash when caught inside, I'm kinda paranoid about hanging on since I broke the fingers, although I'll turn turtle if there are people around. The board paddles fast, so didn't get caught inside much. Anyway, I was finding the crowd to be like a slalom course, and it was making me nervous, I got out after an hour or so but consider the session a success.
Quote:
In regards to volume…
Well…
There are more ways the one “to skin a cat”
Width is one.
I am working on strategic placement of volume.
i.e. chest and body mass in prone or paddling positon.
Sometimes you get a little lucky with a domed deck.
BTW this is relevant with SB’s as well.
And have been doing a few 2 band rails with hard tucked edge
Of course thinner In the critical spots (rear or under foot)
I am a fan of domed decks, I like the look and feel of a domed deck. I have seen your boards, I know you foil them beautifully. Only lately have I been getting away from domed decks, carrying thickness out to toward the edges more. Still, I curve down before getting to the rail, something I have seen John Carper do on his guns. It works for me, I don't think dustin would like it, because of the way he surfs, very on the rail.
Quote:
Ha Dustin weighs in @ 175#, let’s see 175# on a 5-8?
Volume management 101.
We need to have breakfast at the Vagabond
And talk!
Eh I’ll buy.
Aloha Nui!
I'm surprised Dustin weighs 175, but they say muscle tissue weighs more than fat, and he doesn't have an ounce of fat on him! Yeah, that would be a challenge. Heck, he loses volume in his deck wells, you can see why in his go-pro videos, he really mashes down on his turns!
Surf session and breakfast sounds good, maybe our schedules will align sometime soon, I have a lot of irons in the fire and know you do too, so we'll just play it by ear. Meanwhile, swaylocks is our Vagabond substitute, ha.
I bleed for you having to deal with all that crap!
"T' use to sneak in
got a few days of "perfection"
even after going public,
always zig zag the fools and go till you get picked off.
I am so very pleased you are into the Winged Squad!
IMHO, a winner for your point break.
Yeah, nice to be busy, just sick of the contractor side.
Tuff love!
One day a week for surf sucks!
Like Friday...
My favorite beach break
1:00PM! swell, tide and wind
perfect "old mans" surf...
Lay out at noon
like a lizard on the rocks.
and have a go when it is on...
What luxury being able to scope and plan.
But unfortunately now days we have surf reports.
Jee wiz,
when I was a punk
it was the newspaper with highs and lows!
Shit I have NOAA now!
Eh back to your statement
“So I was thinking this is a chance to see if this board can really be the equalizer I'm starting to view it as, and wondering if I would even score a wave in the pack. Some really nice sets coming through, head high, but several guys going for every wave. I paddled a bit north of the thickest part, and waited for some sets. "
#1 Glad to see you have confidence in the WS.
#2 You have it down on where you have an advantage in the lineup...
I never paddled past the last guy on
the other side of the peak of first in the pecking order
but as soon as the cat was gone...
I never "snake" only run and hassle drop ins to their limits.
I had the priority
they did the crime
Eh, like that a#* Sarlo!
Do it!
There is still some honor out there!
Eh,
"Watch out kid ya don't get kilt" (Field Of Dreams).
Side note here.
Funny 2 me!
I have always had a stoke on favorite boards
The confidence is the main thing.
And for me (and as you should know) my oscillation between riding for someone
and (getting' pissed) and riding my own.
It really is a boost to be stoked on your ride
Whatever the heck it is!
Earned priority and confidence
Love it!
like
0
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
Thanks for the guidance on the 7'0'' . I added a bit more rocker in the nose area, customers a complete beginner so I have visions of him doing the death grip with both hands while coming down on the drop, so a little extra in the nose area to help stop the nose poking in.
Those crowds sound crazy. Although I find it hard to believe that there are no incrowded spots left with a bit of extra driving time? What about boat trips out to the channel islands and surfing yourselves out for a couple of days at a time? I saw on some maps that there are some nice waves out there!
Really I know nothing about so cal, so, tell it to me like it is.
LTM
The crowds are a reality, if you live here you complain, but you learn to deal with them. Not all bad, I have gotten to know several of the dawn patrollers, some by name and some by their face, so in some ways it's like I'm surfing with my friends. Yes there are the aggro boys, but I try to steer clear, for the most part. I'm an old guy, I don't have to fight my way up through the pecking order, if I'm the first one up and going on a wave, odds are good it will remain my wave. If I get snaked, yes I might throw a little stinkeye, but then I paddle back for the next one and forget about it.
The crowds aren't there all day every day, there is some flux, and you can time it right to get some uncrowded surf time too. Yes there are some less crowded spots in driving distance, but I don't always have that option. The spot I surf is 5 minutes from my current job, and I only have a brief period in the morning before work for a quick paddle out and a few waves. I'm not gonna drive the coast and hike into the less crowded spots, miss a bunch of work and bring home a half a paycheck, when I'm barely getting by on what I'm making now, haha.
I hear guys griping and complaining all the time, I have just made up my mind to stay positive, be friendly and share a little stoke or a compliment or some wax when I can, not get caught up in drama in the lineup, try not to get hurt or hurt anyone, catch a few fun waves, clean up in the public beach shower, and go on about my day. Once in awhile I'll even get a "nice wave dude", and that puts a smile on my face. Works for me, as they say. Attitude is everything. Volume helps me get by.
Nicely said Huck,
That kind of head space is what its all about. Personally I always try to steer away from crow0ds and surf inferior waves if necessary to escape the people. Or walk miles to in-accessible waves and make a day or days trip. Its usually worth the effort, but as you mentioned getting time to do it is the hard part.
Got a trip planned to places off the radar on Friday, but it could be cancelled last minute due to conditions (might be too rough for boat crossings)
A question for Huck and Mattwho, as an estimate what kind of volume in litres do you think is your lower limit?
LTM
I don't have an answer in litres, I'm old school and don't play much with the computer design programs, but here's a couple boards that are at the lower end of my comfort zone. A 6-7 stubbie, and a 7-4 squaretail. The more uncrowded the spot I'm surfing, the lower the volume I can get away with.
I bleed for you having to deal with all that crap!
"T' use to sneak in
got a few days of "perfection"
even after going public,
always zig zag the fools and go till you get picked off.
I am so very pleased you are into the Winged Squad!
IMHO, a winner for your point break.
So far, so good, now I need to start working on my hybrid WS / GS design. I'm also hoping for a Matty custom - if I buy the blank, and provide the template, think I could persuade you? I'll do the glassing.
Quote:
Yeah, nice to be busy, just sick of the contractor side.
Tuff love!
One day a week for surf sucks!
Me too, but just taking what I can get right now.
Quote:
Like Friday...
My favorite beach break
1:00PM! swell, tide and wind
perfect "old mans" surf...
Lay out at noon
like a lizard on the rocks.
and have a go when it is on...
What luxury being able to scope and plan.
But unfortunately now days we have surf reports.
Jee wiz,
when I was a punk
it was the newspaper with highs and lows!
Shit I have NOAA now!
Funny. For us it was crazy Dr. George (Fishbeck), the only weather newscaster who might mention the surf...
"So far, so good, now I need to start working on my hybrid WS / GS design. I'm also hoping for a Matty custom - if I buy the blank, and provide the template, think I could persuade you?"
Thanks guys, I love my stubbie, but my last few sessions on it have been less than rewarding. It's one of the things that prompted this thread, actually. I decided rather than be frustrated, I'd use the experience as a springboard to analyzing which boards my best sessions were on, and why. And then, how can I focus on what created those best sessions when designing / shaping my next board(s).
I was so frustrated I thought about selling it, but finally decided I am keeping this board for uncrowded days and frontside waves. For the other 99% of the time, I think I'm gonna have to stick with longer boards.
I loved the few waves I caught with it, so I know it's gonna be fun in the right conditions. But I gotta face reality, if I want to maximize my stoke for the little surfing time I get in the week, and the conditions I am faced with, I gotta go with the 'wave count' boards. I think everyone dealing with aging and crowd issues (combined) eventually comes to the same realization.
I agree. Sometimes we get caught between just being a surfer, wanting to paddle out on our favorite / comfortable board, vs being a shaper / team rider (for ourself), and paddling out on the new or unproven shape we don't feel so sure about. Which is to say, I've had to force myself to stick with the WS lately, when my inclination was to the GS. In spite of all the things I've said about volume, I have to supress the impulse to say this board has just too much volume, and grab the other board.
Yet time and again, I paddle out on it and end up having a great session. Friday was no exception, other than to say the crowd made it a little tougher than usual. Pulled up in the darkness, and cars were already lining PCH along the beach. By the time I suited up and headed to the water, still dark but the horizon just starting to lighten a tinge, there was already a thick swarm of black silhouettes barely visible in the lineup. There was a little swell, a little size, and the word had gotten out. Everyone got the memo. So I was thinking, this is a chance to see if this board can really be the equalizer I'm starting to view it as, and wondering if I would even score a wave in the pack. Some really nice sets coming through, head high, but several guys going for every wave. I paddled a bit north of the thickest part, and waited for some sets.
Ended up getting several waves, got worked more than once since I was taking off behind the peak of a lot of them. Before the sun even came up I was a little tired, feeling my age as they say, I had a half dozen waves to my account, a couple of them good ones, but none were the wave-of-the-day variety. Still, enough to say the board was still working for me, and still allowing me to get in early and claim a wave in a crowd, no small accomplishment for the old guy from the sticks. And I noticed on the bigger faces I didn't need to walk the board as much as I did in the smaller stuff, I was able to navigate pretty well from one spot, just had to walk a bit if it walled up and got steep inside.
There was no one around me on the paddle back out, so I felt comfortable just to bail and rely on the leash when caught inside, I'm kinda paranoid about hanging on since I broke the fingers, although I'll turn turtle if there are people around. The board paddles fast, so didn't get caught inside much. Anyway, I was finding the crowd to be like a slalom course, and it was making me nervous, I got out after an hour or so but consider the session a success.
I am a fan of domed decks, I like the look and feel of a domed deck. I have seen your boards, I know you foil them beautifully. Only lately have I been getting away from domed decks, carrying thickness out to toward the edges more. Still, I curve down before getting to the rail, something I have seen John Carper do on his guns. It works for me, I don't think dustin would like it, because of the way he surfs, very on the rail.
I'm surprised Dustin weighs 175, but they say muscle tissue weighs more than fat, and he doesn't have an ounce of fat on him! Yeah, that would be a challenge. Heck, he loses volume in his deck wells, you can see why in his go-pro videos, he really mashes down on his turns!
Surf session and breakfast sounds good, maybe our schedules will align sometime soon, I have a lot of irons in the fire and know you do too, so we'll just play it by ear. Meanwhile, swaylocks is our Vagabond substitute, ha.
Yeah Buddy!
Friday was the call!
I bleed for you having to deal with all that crap!
"T' use to sneak in
got a few days of "perfection"
even after going public,
always zig zag the fools and go till you get picked off.
I am so very pleased you are into the Winged Squad!
IMHO, a winner for your point break.
Yeah, nice to be busy, just sick of the contractor side.
Tuff love!
One day a week for surf sucks!
Like Friday...
My favorite beach break
1:00PM! swell, tide and wind
perfect "old mans" surf...
Lay out at noon
like a lizard on the rocks.
and have a go when it is on...
What luxury being able to scope and plan.
But unfortunately now days we have surf reports.
Jee wiz,
when I was a punk
it was the newspaper with highs and lows!
Shit I have NOAA now!
Eh back to your statement
“So I was thinking this is a chance to see if this board can really be the equalizer I'm starting to view it as, and wondering if I would even score a wave in the pack. Some really nice sets coming through, head high, but several guys going for every wave. I paddled a bit north of the thickest part, and waited for some sets. "
#1 Glad to see you have confidence in the WS.
#2 You have it down on where you have an advantage in the lineup...
I never paddled past the last guy on
the other side of the peak of first in the pecking order
but as soon as the cat was gone...
I never "snake" only run and hassle drop ins to their limits.
I had the priority
they did the crime
Eh, like that a#* Sarlo!
Do it!
There is still some honor out there!
Eh,
"Watch out kid ya don't get kilt" (Field Of Dreams).
Side note here.
Funny 2 me!
I have always had a stoke on favorite boards
The confidence is the main thing.
And for me (and as you should know) my oscillation between riding for someone
and (getting' pissed) and riding my own.
It really is a boost to be stoked on your ride
Whatever the heck it is!
Earned priority and confidence
Love it!
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
The crowds are a reality, if you live here you complain, but you learn to deal with them. Not all bad, I have gotten to know several of the dawn patrollers, some by name and some by their face, so in some ways it's like I'm surfing with my friends. Yes there are the aggro boys, but I try to steer clear, for the most part. I'm an old guy, I don't have to fight my way up through the pecking order, if I'm the first one up and going on a wave, odds are good it will remain my wave. If I get snaked, yes I might throw a little stinkeye, but then I paddle back for the next one and forget about it.
The crowds aren't there all day every day, there is some flux, and you can time it right to get some uncrowded surf time too. Yes there are some less crowded spots in driving distance, but I don't always have that option. The spot I surf is 5 minutes from my current job, and I only have a brief period in the morning before work for a quick paddle out and a few waves. I'm not gonna drive the coast and hike into the less crowded spots, miss a bunch of work and bring home a half a paycheck, when I'm barely getting by on what I'm making now, haha.
I hear guys griping and complaining all the time, I have just made up my mind to stay positive, be friendly and share a little stoke or a compliment or some wax when I can, not get caught up in drama in the lineup, try not to get hurt or hurt anyone, catch a few fun waves, clean up in the public beach shower, and go on about my day. Once in awhile I'll even get a "nice wave dude", and that puts a smile on my face. Works for me, as they say. Attitude is everything. Volume helps me get by.
I don't have an answer in litres, I'm old school and don't play much with the computer design programs, but here's a couple boards that are at the lower end of my comfort zone. A 6-7 stubbie, and a 7-4 squaretail. The more uncrowded the spot I'm surfing, the lower the volume I can get away with.
Nice, especially the look of the 6'7''
So far, so good, now I need to start working on my hybrid WS / GS design. I'm also hoping for a Matty custom - if I buy the blank, and provide the template, think I could persuade you? I'll do the glassing.
Me too, but just taking what I can get right now.
Funny. For us it was crazy Dr. George (Fishbeck), the only weather newscaster who might mention the surf...
"So far, so good, now I need to start working on my hybrid WS / GS design. I'm also hoping for a Matty custom - if I buy the blank, and provide the template, think I could persuade you?"
Eh! No problem...
I argree with LTM
the 6-7 rockz it!
stubby beach photos 014a.jpg
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
Thanks guys, I love my stubbie, but my last few sessions on it have been less than rewarding. It's one of the things that prompted this thread, actually. I decided rather than be frustrated, I'd use the experience as a springboard to analyzing which boards my best sessions were on, and why. And then, how can I focus on what created those best sessions when designing / shaping my next board(s).
I was so frustrated I thought about selling it, but finally decided I am keeping this board for uncrowded days and frontside waves. For the other 99% of the time, I think I'm gonna have to stick with longer boards.
I loved the few waves I caught with it, so I know it's gonna be fun in the right conditions. But I gotta face reality, if I want to maximize my stoke for the little surfing time I get in the week, and the conditions I am faced with, I gotta go with the 'wave count' boards. I think everyone dealing with aging and crowd issues (combined) eventually comes to the same realization.
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