the old man and the sea

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johnmellor's picture
Joined: 03/17/2004

Hi Huck -

After seeing photos of guys ripping on SUPs, my eyes were open... wide.  

I have made a couple of  big longboards that are actually much bigger than some of the SUPs that are in vogue today.  One in particular is still getting put through it's paces up on Vancouver Island.. it is a 12'6" X 26" X 5" thick (or thereabouts.)  There is also one that is 11' X 27" X 5" that was ridden by a couple fo guys as a SUP one day.  Both boards had seriously beefy rails and in the hands of the right rider, worked good.

I think you're familiar with the Walden Mega-Magic model? That board has near SUP volume in the rails as do some of the Infinity longboards.  

Another shaper, Dave Parmenter, does a model he calls the "PSV" - Paddle Surf Vehicle.  It's a paddle/surf hybrid.  That's actually how the big yellow 12'6" I made is being used now although it was designed as a big wave longboard for a big guy.

Until you get on a bigger faster wave where rail engagement might be a problem, I see little to no downside to the high volum rails of which we speak.  There have been a couple of instances where I could see the value in a bit less volume to help me sink that forward but for most day in day out surfing?  No question about it.  

If a person doesn't believe now, give it 30 or 40 more years.  If they're still at it, they'll understand!

PS - I ain't saying how I got that board to levitate... "secret sauce." HAHA

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L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014

johnmellor wrote:

PS - I ain't saying how I got that board to levitate... "secret sauce."

:)  :)  Potential hypotheses for JohnMellors "secret sauce":

1) photoshopping skills

2) some fishing line strung from the roof and under the board

3) for my money though, I'm guessing you slid out a drawer from that cabinet under the workbench and balanced the board on top of that.

Nice looking little workshop. Particularly like the photo album pasted up on the walls.

Cheers :)

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Hey john awesome board! I wrote a nice long response and it musta fell into a black hole in  cyber space. Oh well.

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L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014

Huck, in regard to your "oversized and too thick boards with too thick rails" I think you might be "preaching to the choir" a bit here; generally speaking, I think your average Sways regular (and probably even more so with the average E&B regular) would be more than happy to take one of your creations for a spin.

Even if it's someone who had different requirements and aims with their surfing compared to your own. Just because it's always interesting to see how a board goes. Especially if it's something that's a long way different to your own personal boards.

I know I sure would.

Heck, I reckon you'd even have a bit of a queue forming if every Sways user lived within driving distance of you.

Mind you, I'm also not saying we'd all stick with it beyond a few decent-length sessions; like I said, we're all of different ages and abilities, surf in different locations and conditions, have different aims in our surfing, and we're all in search of a board (actually it's more like a quiver :) ), that's perfect just for us. And because of that, we're all after a different board.

And while I agree that the average punter out in the lineup can be bafflingly reticent to trying a board that's a bit out of the ordinary (e.g. your +3" thickness midlength/shortboards), I think you've also got to admit that the boards being ridden by the average punter (especially those who are out of their 20's) is these days a fair bit thicker than it used to be 10 to 15 years ago - I see quite a lot of people out in the lineup on "shorter, wider, thicker". Especially the more gutless the waves get. Lots of Sweet Potato's and Baked Potatoes being ridden. Lots of funboards too - the McCoy Nugget and it's devotees have been around for over 2 decades now, they're still selling well, and they're commonly up around 3" in thickness.

Cheers all!

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
Just venting
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L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014

Huck wrote:

Like I said, have yet to find one person willing to give em a try

So the "stubby" you swapped with mattwho and is now being test-ridden by "Boy" doesn't count?

That particular situation could well be considered (in an indirect way), you getting your first ever "team rider" and "test-pilot".

And what's more, unlike what the big-name surfboard shapers having to put up with, by having to hand their team-riders/test-pilots their best creations for free,... you actually got paid to do it!

Okay, okay, so an 8'8" HLPB is not a typical form of currency. But you've gotta admit, it's one heck of a lot better than nuthin at all!

So cheer up Huck :)

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Haha I'm plenty cheered up, as much as I need to be, anyway.  Yesterday I almost got beat up at Malibu by Danno, but today I had a good session, got several set waves by sitting outside and waiting, and it paid off.  Inside the youngsters were fighting over the waves, but my drama was yesterday, I was all about the stoke today.

If you already got a ride report on the stubby you're ahead of me, but no, it doesn't count. The boards I was referring to are the ones pictured in my post, the wing squad, the banana boat, and the gordita.

I'm not looking for team riders, just saying it's a bit puzxling that guys won't even take one for a spin, but they'll stand there and gripe they're not getting any waves cuz tide too high, crowd too thick, sun got in their eyes, whatever. Not that I care if they don't but you know how it is. Just reflecting on the irony of it is all.

Thanx for reminding me, I gotta get the 8-8 waxed and finned and leashed up for action!

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gbzausa's picture
Joined: 09/13/2009

Danno ? as in Hawaii 5 o ?

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Yeah, that Danno

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LiveTheMoment's picture
Joined: 06/27/2014
I was going to ask the same thing. .... Who's Danno? I hate agro in the water, I do everything I can to avoid it which mostly involves avoiding crowds, waking up early on cold mornings and feeling cold tired and uncomfortable. But as soon as I'm in the water its almost always worthwhile.
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gbzausa's picture
Joined: 09/13/2009

Huck , Danno pulled that shit here in Oahu a few times until someone wispered in his ear and he settled down .

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

That's funny, pretty good surfer, but I kinda feel sorry for the guys out there all attitude and no aloha, seems like they're missing the boat on what this sport is all about.

had the 8-8 Matty out this morning, one of those weird days where the waves way better than anyone anticipated, nobody showed up, and a handful of us had all we wanted.  2-4' glassy and peeling. After an hour and a half I came in exhausted, wasn't even 7 a.m. yet.

Anyway full two thumbs up on the Matty, such a fun fast board, a confidence booster to ride, don't know what pixie dust he put in that thing, but it's amazing!  Feels really lively underfoot, a great feeling, like its on ball bearings or something. My only problem (operator error) was in late grinding takeoffs, always a weak point of mine anyway.  But when I could get in a hair early, look out! I'm taking this one all the way in, wave after wave.  Some guy I don't even know paddled up and said I got the wave of the day.

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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014

Eh,

Thanks for the kudo

There is some vodoo in that ride.

You know it has been a long R&D

I think "losing the hips" and

not being aggressive with the concaves

helped alot!

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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

johnmellor's picture
Joined: 03/17/2004

Everybody seems to have little boxes in which they live and surf.  I ain't saying I'm breaking down any walls - I'm 40+ years past my prime.

Just ride what you like and let the rest of 'em bugger off.

All right... I'm gonna spill the beans so pay attention here.  The 'secret sauce' is just a couple of padded closet poles that fit in to some sleeves mounted under the workbench.  It isn't my garage and those aren't my photos and that isn't my board but I did make it.

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Well cool Matty, I figured as much (r&d) since I'd seen the other board in person. The board is kinda opposite of what I'm doing in a lot of ways, and yet it works great for me. It's thin where mine are thick, hence, skinny rails where mine are fat. Longboard template and rocker, where mine are more midlength template and rocker. The quad fin configuration we have in common, but I've never put them on a longboard.

Eventually I'll get it out in a variety of conditions, but it sure was working well today. And that's with the plastic composite fins, I'm also gonna put some fiberglass fins in and see if I can tell the difference.

-----

I got a healthy nose ding recently, but haven't had the opportunity to repair it. I might just duct tape the ding and take a break from the Wing Squad and give it another go this coming week.

I've been spending time with the wing squad because I notice when I stick with one board, my surfing improves. Switching back and forth a lot is difficult for me as a surfer, although necessary as a surfboard designer.

Quote:
Everybody seems to have little boxes in which they live and surf. I ain't saying I'm breaking down any walls - I'm 40+ years past my prime.

John I know you make and ride the boards that work for you, but there are a lot of guys (like me too) 40 years past our prime who I'd love to get to try my boards, just to see if it could help them as much as its helped me to get more waves and have more fun.

-------

So I've recently done some work on my Beachcomber fun gun, per other threads, and thinking of spending some time with that board coming up, if I can find some waves with just a bit more push than the little peelers I've been riding lately.

This one is the most extreme of "big boy" high volume boards, and I'd like to see if I can get the mastery of it. I've come pretty far with the wing squad, but there's still plenty of room for improvement. I'm not a talented quick adapter like Dustin, Matty's team rider, I really have to spend time with each board before I begin to get comfortable with it.

Especially these high volume boards, which are great wave catchers, but take some getting used to. Perseverance pays off in stoke and wave count. I'm thinking of eventually going back to a bit smaller boards, but I want these boards in my quiver as I age, and I want to have mastered them to the point of feeling comfortable, so I have something to grab when I just cant ride the 7-somethings anymore.

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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014

Yo Amigo,

I'm still around!

A little fishing Nazi going on with me...

I know that the stepped down rail and volume are the key...

Ah, for oldpharts wanting to max wave count.

Relax my friend as the same concept (board) made by a "name" would catch fire.

Welcome to the underground,

Advancement in design that is "snubbed" by the main stream.

"Let the jerks suffer".

Non believers

I mean if Kelly rode it?

Welp?

Keep the faith!

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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Thanx Matty the jury is still out on the fun gun, I really haven't spent enough time with it to figure out if I like it or not.  (edit to add: after a week in solid swell, the verdict is in - I love the board!)

My wave count lately has been good enough I should probably just be happy with that, but I'm always looking for ways to improve on what I have.  And of course, there's always a desire to share the stoke, and the curiosity to see if the shapes could work for anyone else.

human nature I guess :-). At any rate, I've moved on from that for the present, my plate is full with other stuff, but like to come here and make a note of where my thinking is on the subject. I'm constantly tweaking my opinions, as I go.

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Monkstar1's picture
Joined: 06/21/2004

Keep it up. There's people out there that are listening. It is appreciated.

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Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.

BackyardBullard.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Thanks Monkstar1, btw, where did that name come from?

I'm sure I'm repeating myself here, but to sum up at this point, I've decided that the maximum practical surfboard volume is way way higher than what most people think.  More volume can really help with the wave count, with paddling ease and speed, and with some practise, can be handled on the wave face just fine.  Its a bear to duck dive, and if that's a big priority, then forget the high volume.  But there are other ways to get through a breaking wave, and while added volume admittedly doesn't enhance performance, its not an outright performance killer either.

For an older surfer who is finding it difficult to get waves in a crowd, who wants to catch waves like a longboard without going to a full longboard shape, who doesn't want to go the stand-up rowboat road, switching to a high volume surfboard is a viable option.  Its a worthwhile trade-off if you're willing to take the time to make the adjustment (call it a learning curve), and I'm loving it.  Having fun at sixty-one (ok, thats still a few weeks off, but I liked the way it sounded).

There is a strong prejudice against thicker high-volume boards, so your board won't be considered sexy or fashionable.  But if catching waves and having fun is the bigger priority, then its a worthwhile journey.

The last few days in south swell conditions with overhead sets, I have been feeling my age.  Lung capacity isn't what it used to be (guess I need to start running again).  Not sure how much longer I'll be out there in the overhead surf, so I'm really happy for each and every wave I get now, might as well enjoy the ride as long as I can, and my four high-volume big-boy fat-boards have been a big help.  And the longboards too.  In fact, I have a Matty 8-8 that approaches everything from an opposite angle, its thin where mine are thick, longboard shape and rocker where mine are midlength shape and rocker, and yet I love that board!  So I'm not claiming my fat boards as the be-all do-all, just another viable option worth exploring.

Sometimes I wish there were more guys out there willing to jump on this bandwagon and post up their efforts, give these boards a try, or heck, even just jump in and contribute something to the conversation, but in the end, this has been my personal battle, my personal journey, my personal choice.  I have been happy to share it here, but I would still love to find another site where there might be more interest in the stuff I build.

Some guys still ride shortboards well into their sixties.  Some guys just ride longboards as they get older, and are happy with that.  I like that I have a third option, that falls somewhere between those two.  This is the realm of the midlength, of course, but mine are midlengths specifically for the older / heavier surfer.

The other day a guy paddled up to me and started complaining I was getting too many waves!  Which is ironic, me being a 60 year old guy who just started surfing again a few years back, who paddles out for 3 or 4 waves then heads off to work.  But I think it does say something about the wave catching ability of my board. (I think I just happened to get a couple in a row that he wanted.)

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Still riding my old guy boards, lately its been the wing squad and the beachcomber, but mostly the wing squad.  I took a bad wipe out on the Banana Boat, and it needs a new fin plug now.  And my body is still sore after two weeks! 

I find I tend to ride further back on the Gordita than I want to, I'm thinking of losing the stomp deck in back and see if that makes any difference.  Add it to my list of projects I'm behind on, haha.  Really like the beachcomber as a quad. 

I have switched to Pro Teck (safety) fins on my quads since the injury, and have no complaints about the performance so far.  They're stiff enough I'm sure I'd still be hurting now even if my wipe out injury occured with the Pro Tecks, but they seem much safer as regards the sharp cutting edge of a normal fin.

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sk8ment's picture
Joined: 08/22/2013

Keep it up mate, i feel like noone cares and then you say thanks for the post some times and it makes me stoked!

BTW moving house this friday, and i wont be getting the boards finished before i go which is sad. and just life.

Keep charging

Love your work

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@reclaim_surf formerly Skatement

(Adam) Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia

MiWie's picture
Joined: 08/04/2016

I´ll second that. Keep it up. Even if there are no answers sometimes, I bet there are a lot of silent followers out there.
I´ve always followed this thread with great joy as a silent unregistered guest.

 

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Thanks for the encouragement! Here's what I'm thinking for my next board... 

A tangent off the Gordita, probably using the same big boy blank, which worked really well for the Gordita.  This one more shortboard oriented in shape, whereas the Gordita was more fish or stubby oriented.  An inch narrower, with a pulled in nose, thruster fin setup, and single concave.  But similar foil, rails, and rocker to the Gordita. 

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Check this out, from the General Discussion page, 7'10" x 23 1/2" x 3 7/8"

So almost 8' long by 4" thick, by a little over 23" wide. 

Michael Junod is an established shaper with a reputation, cool for me to see that he's working in the same general dimensions that I have been exploring as well, The Joe Blair zone haha!  This has to have been a custom for a big guy (or old guy).

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MiWie's picture
Joined: 08/04/2016

The sketch of your outline looks nice an clean. Are you planning to do railchannels again ? (I guess thats what the stripes are for in your sketch).
22x3.1/4 would suit me well, too.
I noticed (since I started reading here in 2015) you like a little more volume in most of your boards. Thats why I´m always curious when you tell about your boards and your shapes and why I´m following this thread closely.
Beeing a big guy and on top of that landlocked, I like to have a little more foam as well. I never felt a 22 (or even 22.1/2) wide board would hold me back or be a disadvantage, and I feel like everything under 3 is simply to thin for me.


That Michael Junod outline is pretty sexy.
23.1/2 and 3.7/8 are quite "remarkable", but hidden well in that shape.
I will keep this as a good example next time my "98 pund weakling" buddies tell me my 22 wide /  3 thick boards are tankships.

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

That bit of extra volume takes a little getting used to, but comes in handy in a crowded lineup with no consideration for age. I have also seen Stretch boards in this same general size.

Yes it is planned to have rail channels like the gordita.  I am not a large surfer, but age and aggressive crowds have pushed me into riding these. "big boy" boards, and it's been working pretty well for me.

Currently I've been dialing back the volume a little to see if I can keep my advantages but get just a tiny bit more performance.

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MiWie's picture
Joined: 08/04/2016

Nice picture !
(I know all the other pictures of you surfing, nice to watch everytime)

"I am not a large surfer, but age and aggressive crowds have pushed me into riding these."
I know, I´ve read every single page of this thread. :-) 

By far I neither got your surfing- and shaping- experience/knowledge, nor do I have your surfing skills. I´m only 37, so quite young.
But: I get a lot of inspiration and ideas from your concepts and all the thoughts in this thread.
If you ask "Why?". I´m struggling with arthritis since I´m a boy, the doctors always estimate me 20 years older judging by my x-rays. Which means I´m simply not as elastic as most of the other guys in the water.
That plus beeing big guy, plus beeing landlocked and only surfing sporadic means I´m looking for some "advantages" here and there as well.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and your experience. It´s a good source for inspiration for me.


 

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Glad to hear I could be of some positive good here, sorry to hear about the arthritis but lack of flexibility comes with age too as you say.

In this regard, the bigger boards also make a stable platform for pop-up, which has proven beneficial as well.

As far as a prevailing prejudice against these larger boards, I encounter this too, but take my solace in my wave count and fun factor.

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
Haven't shaped anything new for awhile, jonesing to mow some foam. Life and all its weird circumstances kinda getting in the way lately, but been getting plenty of waves, up until this week. Started a new job in Hollywood, missing my beachside project, but still have work there when I can get to it. Same property owner on both projects. So I have had plenty of time to ride my volume-laden boards, and reflect. Still considering my foray into surfboard design for the aging surfer to be successful, even 'tho most people find the subject "taboo" to talk about, let alone pursue. Funny to me cuz we all grow old eventually, but its easier to put it out of mind. I know a lot of older guys turn to longboards, but the truth is longboards were never specifically designed for older surfers. Maybe I've been a little too successful, I've gotten more than one complaint that I get too many waves. I am not a snake or a wave hog, but one friend told me the problem is that I sit at the top, and get the best set waves, so it appears I'm getting all the good waves. Anyway, I get good waves when a lot of guys don't, and I'm having fun when it seems not everyone is, so I'm counting that as a win. Bummer about the other stuff, but oh well, I'm not there every morning any more since starting my new job anyway. And when its really really good, and the hot-shots take over, I can barely get a wave, so I take what I can get when I can get it, haha. Reflecting on that, I'm sure another thing is that a couple of the dawn patrol guys I surf with have a tendency to paddle for a set wave, then back out at the last second. Don't know how you guys deal with that, but me, after a couple times I will go anyway even when I see them paddling. I tell them don't worry, if you go I will kick out, but I think they get psyched out when they see me paddling, and then feel like they would have gone if it weren't for me. I just think if you let a couple good set waves go by just cuz you looked down the ramp and changed your mind, then don't beef if someone takes off next time even 'tho you're paddling. Its a tricky situation, but in crowded L.A. surf a wasted set wave is a sad thing, IMO. I'm guessing that's part of the problem. And the other thing, I hate when guys sit right inside me, and kinda block me from paddling for a wave, then take it themselves. So when they do that, I run right over them, well, mostly I veer just left of them (its a right point) then turn hard on takeoff. That sounds kinda rotten I guess, but it happens a lot and I never sit right inside anyone else, I feel like if you do that you take your chances when they go for a wave. Maybe I need to re-think that, haha. Like to know what you guys do in those situations. As we age, we lose muscle strength, stamina, and our balance and reflexes aren't what they used to be. Everyone is different, but most of us over 60 can physically feel a difference in the way our bodies respond now from how it was 30 years ago. These are all things that can be addressed in a surfboard's design, so that's my idea. Paddle power and stability, with a board that responds a little more like a shortboard than your average longboard, so to speak. Paddle easy, stable on the popup. I find the boards are still more trim than pump, but I find them more responsive than my longboards, and handle late or steep takeoffs better than my longboards. My next project that I'm now planning is kinda like a scaled down "beachcomber", a shortboard-type outline but in a bigger version. The beachcomber is 9', I'm thinking 8' for this next one. I can ride shorter boards, but 8' seems like a real comfortable length for me right now. I had planned to go shorter in a previous post, but now my thinking has swung back to 8'. So a board with a narrow pulled in nose, with the foam in the back half. Kinda like the picture, but 8', and thick. Still planning to use the 8-2A from US blanks, I love that blank! My photog buddy showed up the other day and said he got some pics of me, dunno if or when I'll ever see 'em, but I told him I'll buy whatever he's got. Thinking back, I met him because he was shooting pics one day, and kinda singled me out not cuz I was ripping by any means, but according to him, because it looked like I was having so doggone much fun. Hope y'all are getting waves and having fun!!
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L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014
Hi Huck, generally I agree with you; I'm of the philosophy of "no good wave should go unridden". Paddling for a wave and then backing off at the last second is a no-no, so, on the odd occasions it happens, if I see someone else paddling out on the shoulder and I don't think I'll make the takeoff I'll call them in. And if it ends up being me backing off and no-one else getting onto it, I'll paddle out wide to the back of the queue and wait for the rotation to bring me back into the takeoff zone. What bugs me the most though is when the summertime crowds hit at my local and the hustling for waves gets taken too far with the result that 80 to 90% of the set waves go largely unridden.... even though there's a surfer riding every single one of these waves. Sound a bit self-contradictory? Here's what happens; the summertime tourists crowd the lineup so much the locals push each other deeper and deeper on the takeoff and because they're good and can make a late drop, they'll make the takeoff, but because they're now taking off too deep, they'll bottom turn behind the curl and spend the first 2/3rds of the wave chasing the section trying to get around the whitewater and back up into the curl and out onto the face, and hurling abuse and threats at anyone who is in the perfect spot to takeoff and make the most of that unridden curl and face that's currently being UTTERLY wasted. So not only does 2/3rds of the wave go effectively unridden, it's the BEST 2/3rds of it as well. Aaargh!! On these days I'll sit in the right spot and wait for the very occasional wave where whoever's riding it wipes out and I can take off and do that unridden curl and face justice. But so much of the time I've got to watch wave after wave after wave go by. All of them largely wasted, thinking to myself "this is just STUPID". A lot of the summertime tourists have no idea what they're doing,.... but the locals should know better than this.
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
thats funny - but not fun! I see a lot of wasted wave face on the crowded days too, know what you mean. can be frustrating at times!
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
spotted on internet - the proctor is over 3" thick and looks like it has a step-rail, the other, by description, is a high volume board along the lines of my Swan Song series, but with a little different design motivation. eventually, if i get the energy, i may try to organize my thoughts a little better, and post up over on general discussion to see if i can generate a little more conversation on this thread subject.
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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014
My 2 cents... All though a number of "name" shapers TRY to provide "big guy" boards. And the folk that can't contemplate making a board. Just buying a board from someone else, ah, well, all I say is, I have been skeptical a long time now. Way back in 69 I asked an up and coming shaper to shape me, well, I gave him the green light to go ahead and make what he thought was best for me. Bear in mind the time... The Reno Abellira interislands custom was what I wanted, Ah sans the "hyper kick". What I got was a 16 1/2" wide rocket! really was NOT stoked, all I could do was surf it I gave it a go, although I placed better in contests at the time. I never was in to it and eventually traded it for a homemade 8-6 Vee that had been cut down to 6-6. That ugly POS became a favorite. And that same board provoked me to make an outrageous mess of my Pop's garage. I proceeded to make boards that had volume, with rails that were consistently the same all the way 'round. Morey Popes "Camel" (which was an idea at the time hence the name) was behind that. That experience has never left me, you know... I know, Volume is no a sin. Performance is the key.... The rails are where it is at IMHO. I believe Brewer once said that a rail that is equal (all the way around) is optimum. Carry on Sailor!
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
...but the main thing is just looking at volume a bit differently than the mainstream. Its encouraging to me when I see others doing the same, in spite of a prevailing prejudice against these boards. I know I'm not the first, and I took my inspiration from those that I saw going in this direction before I did. But I've had enough positive experiences from the boards I've made in this series to keep me committed to this agenda. And the list of serious shapers doing stuff in this vein is pretty impressive, guys like stretch, joe blair, todd proctor, rusty preisendorf, tom mahady, chronic surfboards, lost surfboards, and john matthews, ha! BTW that camel board is crazy, wish I had a bigger screen than this little phone to view it on, but I think that qualifies as an S-deck! ------- Did u ever pick your board up from Steve? Does he have the stubby now? I've been out of touch, dealing with all the family stuff since my mom passed.
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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014
Funny world... I mean some how I just knew... You would be right there. 1st So very sorry for Maw's passing... She was one heck of a gal!!! Hope your "Tub rash" is better... Shit, I first thought, oh shit what now??? Yeah, "the Camel", they did have some ads in Surfer, with volume tank testing. All about mass, yeah... MP was local, in my day (Ventura, Front St). Cooper was the craziest!!! Cool guys, ALWAYS thinking, and oh yeah... The S rail, oh my God! Side note, Ryder and Blinky came outta that deal @MP... I was underground, like I mentioned I had no problems with rails... here's a shot of a early 70 "razorblade" it solved any transitions. Once the "Brewer downrailer" started. I quit and Greg Liddle shaped my boards, ah, well to specifications. photo "...but the main thing is just looking at volume a bit differently than the mainstream. Its encouraging to me when I see others doing the same, in spite of a prevailing prejudice against these boards." EZ for me!!! The "mainstearm" and the thinking... "prevailing prejudice against these boards". I say bullshit !!! Tell me I am wrong. After all, you said "The other day a guy paddled up to me and started complaining I was getting too many waves!" Have faith !!! The underground is just that... Meaning? Like you and a select others, the proof is simpley in the perfomance! And we both know and are working on this idea. I'll say this, in an effort to sew this up quick, yeah... If I could get Kelly or JJ to ride my "Hulk" I think I would be like Pysel, just tryin' to keep up with demand, yeah? And we shoud all know what that means! Exceptance by the main strearm is IMHO just more horseshit! Yeah, they might be ugly. And you ain't gonna scrore chicks. Wave count And performance is all that really matters. Dustin picked up the 8-10 from SH, thanks I have the Stubby here at the reservation.
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014
Huck: "that camel board is crazy, wish I had a bigger screen than this little phone to view it on, but I think that qualifies as an S-deck!" Yep, when I first laid eyes on that rocker profile part of Camel ad I had the exact same response: Holy cow! Check out the S-Deck on that thing! Couple of things I find very interesting about that Camel ad: 1. As you all know, with the "more volume" fashion in surfboards over the last decade or so, "volume" measurements have been included in the list of the standard measurements recorded on surfboard stringers. But check out the "Volumetric Sizing" paragraph in the ad; Morey Pope was marking volume on his boards (and recommending boards to customers based on volume along with the standard length and width) way back in '69 (or whenever) that ad was from. 2. Matty's reaction to the 16 1/2" wide rocket he got stuck with and that line in the ad: "Camel can be a nice way of paying yourself back for all the grief you suffered with your last board". Sounds just like the "more volume" trend of the last decade or so, in reaction to the "potato chip" 90's. Were the "Camel" style boards a popular shape back then Matty? Or was it only a few people back then who decided a board that made sense was more important than something that everyone else was riding and which looked slick under their arm? Also, did Brewer mention what his reason was (at the time) for saying "a rail that is equal (all the way around) is optimum"? Thanks for putting that one up Matty. 'Like I said, very interesting :)
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
looking at the camel now on a bigger screen, amazing! MP was so far ahead of the pack, using volume as a metric way back then. The camel looks like a caricature of one of my favorite boards, the golden standard. All the same features, but everything exaggerated. It has a wide thin front, narrow but thicker tail, pinched rails, bit of belly, down rails in the very back with a pulled in pin or rounded pin, single fin. Wonder how it would compare in riding! Hey Matty yeah I don't care what the "crowd" is doing so much, but only in the sense I like to see what everyone is doing. Its all interesting to me, and it does surprise me sometimes that so many surfers want to label themselves as "progressive" or "modern", you know, not like the "old guys that cannot surf radical" and have to ride "retro" boards. And they never figure out that they're impressing nobody but themselves, in the bigger picture none of that really matters, all we need to do is have a little fun during our short stay here, and if we can spread a little aloha too, so much the better. the other thing a lot of people have a hard time understanding is that it often isn't a matter of surfing "radical" vs. surfing "retro", as you age it eventually becomes a matter or surfing at all, vs not surfing anymore. There are a lot of guys who were really radical in their day, but they don't surf anymore. That was cool at the time, but now, to me it seems more cool to keep surfing, and radical doesn't even figure into the equation, its radical for me just to paddle out on some days, with all the health issues I deal with at my age. Until you get here, you have no idea. So I keep plugging away at this, having a bit of a setback right now with my mom's passing, and dealing with the house and all her stuff, keeping me from surfing much or shaping much. But eventually I'll get back in the groove, hopefully, and see how far my swan song boards will take me! BTW that was my daughter with the rash, we thought it might be chicken pox, which was scary because then she couldn't have flown home. No public transportation if you have chicken pox. But thankfully it was OK, still made for a stressful visit tho! ----------- here's a video link showing what I consider the best way to ride a midlength. Not trying to rip and hack, more trim and flow, walking the board a little but not a lot, mainly its about enjoying the wave without having to shred the wave. Like I say, just my opinion...
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L.I.T.'s picture
Joined: 10/08/2014
Thanks for putting that one up Huck. It was a pleasure to watch. Fun looking board - wonder if it's possible to nose ride it? He got fairly close to it once or twice in there, and a couple of cheater 5's as well. You know, it's possible to ride HPSB's the same way too, and I almost never see anyone doing that out in the water. You know who I have seen doing that though? Gerry Lopez. Sure, he was one of the guys who pioneered HPSB's, and sure in the footage I've seen of him over the years, he's on an HPSB and he rips some decent turns, but most of the time, it's trim and flow. Guess it's for a couple of reasons; from what I gather the traditional Hawaiian style is all about that, and secondly, he grew up riding longboards. And I can't help but wonder if that solid grounding in trim and flow contributed a lot to him being such a good tube rider, and such a master at Pipe? Regardless, that theory sounds like a great way to justify to your wife why you should go out and get yourself a midlength to add to your quiver if you don't already have one: "But honey, I NEED one of these so I can learn how to tube-ride!". :) Cheers all.
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
maybe moreso in waves with a bit of juice, but around these parts I think its pretty safe to say shortboards you pump for speed, long and midlength for trim and cruise.
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
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sk8ment's picture
Joined: 08/22/2013
Swear there were more waves than that when i looked last. Great to see bro, looks cold. I would give you some tips based on the surf coaching I do with the surf excellence kids but your looking like you're having the most fun. So you're the best surfer out there anyhow;)
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@reclaim_surf formerly Skatement

(Adam) Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia

johnmellor's picture
Joined: 03/17/2004
Saw this on the internet and although I can't be sure, seem to see a resemblance between Trump's and Huck's style.... could it be??????
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014
Glad to see your sence of humour is becoming as thick as my head! If the "dude lost the beard it would be better!!! Things could be, ah, different
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
Typical morning, not crowded but more guys out than waves, hip stiff and hurting more than usual, but somehow managed to snag a couple, here's my last wave in yesterday morning before work, on my 9' single fin that I started this thread with...
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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014
Ya know I'm a fan of yours... Pictures never show to true overall picture. Wow, that is what I call surfing! Great down the line "connect the dots" Your rock.
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

thanks Mattie, just an average wave on a small crappy day, but it was a good wave on that day, and I was lucky to score it as my last wave in, and even more lucky my friend and photographer was there that day and captured it for me. This is the first time he sent me some video instead of just pics. If I don't get some relief for my hip problems, it may be one of my last waves this side of armageddon, haha, so I am really thankful to have this video. Kinda want to say something about my photog buddy too. Don't want to reveal too much about a guy's personal business on a public forum, but he is really an artist, and I think, grossly underappreciated by most the surfers he shoots. I once looked into hiring a pro photographer, and its expensive. This guy hangs out at Sunset, Topanga, Malibu, will shoot you all season, and give you a disc with a bunch of your waves for what most photographers charge per hour, and I hear guys arguing and trying to haggle him down, guys who drive BMWs, and it breaks my heart. I never balk at buying his pics, cuz thats how he eats, and I know his prices are bargain basement, and despite being the kook that I am, I get miles of enjoyment out of sharing them. And I don't hesitate to buy him breakfast or lunch every now and then too, call me a paton of the arts :-)

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mattwho's picture
Joined: 05/12/2014
" just an average wave on a small crappy day" Ha! Your photog, loves what he does, dig his comments... Stem cells look in to it. I lived on Advil to surf when I was your age.
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I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.

www.mattysurfboards.com

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

So this is my current quiver of home builts, minus one I left out. Per Reverb's request I will try to get some commentary up on the individual shapes.

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