well i realy like this one and hope we can work this modell up for the older decrepid crew?
We can do that.
What do you have in mind?
Nice job Yorky looks really nice ,love the carbon work..neat
that's a hell of boards, fins and shapers/glassers
Looks like a rocket.
I want one.
sanded.... We'll put the quad fins in after a few rides.
this for the last day or so
Here's my board with a fluro light behind it (I held it up to the roof)
I must say the fluro xps is kinda cool.
You can see in this pic just how much the glue soaks into the eps.
I cant wait to hear the ride report on that green and gold "Lucky Charm"
Epic two board evolution of the design man. Well done.
you see that spine behind the back fin
the inverted hip outline in the tail (the ousided peaks of the diamond tail)
Well, the board feel like it's got a piece of seaweed on the leggie.
To get the board to work, it had to get up to speed and start plaining utalising thes 3 peaks off the tail. Once this happenes it gave an incredible feeling of floating.
But not worth it.
It's a fun board but didn't work as planned (for small waves).
Also It was over kill with the glassing, strong but not super light. The first board was super light.
I did find some positives at speed it drew out a very smooth silk like bottom turn.
Gave my mate a ride, he liked it but he was stronger in the legs then me. But he also found that instant speed was not there. (And as I'm getting older and lazy/er, Thats one thing I want)
Not done yet!
Move on to #3 build.
same same, but different haha
no the rears are the ones that i designed for yorkys experiment. '' we nicked them new yorkers''
but so far yorky keeps coming up with thrusters ''talk about die in the wool''(-:
you will recognise your temp in this pic
Well, Mr. Shepherd.
Give me 2 weeks and my free time will be 10 fold.
... Die in the wool............ ..... .... pfffert
and whats with the E? Huie!
thats nice yorky
Scrub it kook
#2 (green gold)
EDIT (I had a good session on this one today)
Up grade to a B haha
looks cool though.
This thread and yourwillingness to share your info has been amazing. I am learning along with you. I gotta tell you I was suprised to hear the remake didnt go as well as the first. Thanks for the follow up on the details. What made the glassing schedule on the second so heavy? I dont think I caught the lam schedule if you posted it. My square nose verion came out ok but not as light as I wanted. Epoxy S-glass 4/4 deck 4 bottom. The carbon strip added a touch of weight Im sure.
Keep it coming! This has been the best thread man.
I locked the carbon in with 4oz top and bottom
deck is additional 4oz quad axil that rolls over to bottom edge (quad axil, sucks in epoxy like 5-6oz IMHO) with 2oz over that
bottom in 4oz, over the 4oz that is over the carbon.
I sealed the blank with epoxy and micro balloons. ??? i'd rather no seal or use q cell and epoxy.
I also did a cheater coat before the final filler.
it came out at 2.4 kg (not crazy heavy, not light)
Same same but different,
*lower nose entry
*tail kick will start infront of side fins
*all fins moved back 1/8"
*fins tow in more (1/4" over 4 1/2")
*more pinched rails.
*less orignal single concave
*more agressive dbl bat tail
*more nose flip
*different forward foil carbon configeration
*less spine behind back fin.
*wide point 7/8" behind 1/2 way (narrower back half, more curve middle and slightly wider nose)
..... thats the plan.
5'6" x 18 1/2" x 2 1/4"
I am following you on all of the adjustments, but I caught something that peaked my interest-
*different forward foil carbon configeration.
I would love to hear your thoughts on this adjustment from your previous build. Keep posting! This is great.
Not the best wording from me.
The carbon will be wider (top and bottom) further forward (kind of like in the picture here)
The idea behind it is to disperse the impact energy down towards the tail. As the weight is put on the front foot the energy flows down as the board get more flexy towards the tail. If the carbon was even nose to tail the energy wouldn't flow down or up, I would go straight through.
The last builds do have a tapering carbon setup... Just something I want to try here.
As this new one will be 4x4 deck and 4 bottom. so it really should be light.
I haven't snapped one yet. Maybe this one.
This build witt have fcs 1 (dual plugs through out, not futures) just so the tail is not locked up and the flex energy will run off the tail.
Can you explain what the tape on the tail is for?
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
Just looking to see what different outlines look like.
Yorky, why did you put 2 oz over the quad axis glass on the deck? Thx
All the best
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
With the pictured build here.
I just lamanated it with Quad Axis glass, top and bottom. The laminate was rough as guts, it seemed (to me) to hold excess resin and swell up (I had to hit it hard with some 80 grit before it was filler coated. That was no fun at all.
So, The idea was with my last build, to pull it down tight with some 2oz. The finish with the 2 oz over it was silky smooth. But just a bit to much.... I think.
I'm not going to use Quad axis on this next build.
I like and have used multi axis knitted glass. But you are right about it being a resin sponge. I have had success using a wet out table and only using enough reason to wet it and not saturate it.
Let me push this back up for the Mates.
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
Let me push this back up for the Mates. well i am not sure what bee is under your bonnet'' never ever like never'' have i used swaylocks to promote my product. but on many occasions been accused of hiding information from the brothers.
this thread was a little investigative journey that could go on for some time?--- and needs to be in general discussion
may be you should read my mellow thread i can not be provoked.
Yorky works on surfboards all day every day (do you get that?) then uses his spare time to share more surfboards with folk across the globe fair dink-um lowel you are carrying a big chip
Dings Mc Ding Face, in fine form... Funny bugger
Friday night down under,
listening to this guy, VB's and EPS... feeling a bit to good mmmmm moving along.
...How good is 'Hurricane'
I was in Japan doing a lots of eps hand shapes 2012. The eps melted in the belt area and caused a stone. That stone got under the belt cover, streached the belt and the barrel kept slipping. This happened a few times before I saw the little hot rock.
It was a real hassel at the time. Since then the cover comes off.
...It's not a big shiny skill, but i love my Hitachi's
Why don't you modify the handle on that piece of plastic while your at it. Push instead of drag. Then maybe you wouldn't over shape 'em so much.
I would like to requet. Please go for a wave
Huie has been pushing for us to 'move the wide point forward'.
Also to, 'make the thing thicker'.
I roughed it out tonight, wide point is almost at middle huie, -7/8" (last build #2 was at -2 1/4")
And it's thicker too (sitting at 2 3/8") my aim is 2 1/4", also with a higher rail bevel (therefore a flatter deck).
Low nose entry, looks ok...
I kicked the shit out of the rail line rocker in the tail... because i'm cutting 3 5/8" out of the tail outline for the bat tail (Totally different to the last two builds) More like what I used to make for Kieren Perrow back in the day.
The Rocker is a reflection of the GR (golden ratio), so it can be used on any size board with the same ballance point board. Ratio.
Concave in the middle sits at 1/8". Bottom design is not yet totally decided........ maybe buld #4 we'll do your idea Huie ha
Still have to thin out the foam under the chest and tune up the devels.
Fun and games.
If you got better control of that Hitachi maybe you can leave that 1/8 " you're worried about for your finish. Hard to put foam back on when you've cowboyed it all off.
Put up' or s t f u
Just went down To check last nights exploits, all good. (Loud Music + Beer can sometimes lead me astray)
I haven't over shaped anywhere and the bottom rocker hits all my marks. So I'm happy
It's 1/8th thicker center and 1/4" thicker under the chest (which i'll foil out). The bevelled rails will come down to my medium angle to get a nice deck roll.
I'll be tuning it up tonight after work.
Have you ever done kind of like a tutorial on sways with all of the do's and don'ts of epoxy construction.
It would be very handy for someone like me if someone like you did eps epoxy surfboard construction start to finish and just posted the whole thing in one big hit so there is no interruption of train of thought.
As basic as possible but just really well thought out.
I suppose I'm kind of talking about a 101 type of a Blog.
Thanks a lot I appreciate what you do hydro skipper
Thanks for the vote of confidence.
I'm sure there are a bunch of crew on here more knowledgeable on the subject.
I'm basically self tought, and owe a lot of that to Sways, I get an idea in my head, follow a few rules and go for it.
...Maybe open a community thread on it, I'd like to know more haha.
I think the good guy's are the ones that get the epoxy finishes beautiful, and still light.
I'm planning a dot to dot shaping build soon, might tag epoxy on the end of that.
Id love to know more about this statement?
I think you tried to explain it earlier but i really want to understand rocker more.
Dont poke the troll.
@reclaim_surf formerly Skatement
(Adam) Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia
well it's all theory really and a loose application at best.
I use the phrase Ballance point (BP)
Through out the last 26 years of hand shaping I have used this method on and off.
Basically I pick a point where I want the BP to be and shape in the tail rocker then flip the rocker at the BP and run it towards the nose (nearly always needing to flip the last 6-8" of the nose as with this build.
This method is used 99% of the time to find the rail line rocker (so the board has to be shaped with no concave at this stage just flat - and it doesn't really work with reverse vee's... I had other methods for vee's
I said I loosely used the golden ratio here.
To find my ballance point with #3 build I divided 1.618 (GR) into 66" (length) until I found a number I wanted to work with.
In this case, it took x6 to divide 1.618 into the length to get 3.625 my BP (-3.625 behind 1/2 way)
So, how can this ratio be applied onto other sizes? Just do exactlly the same but replace the 66" (5'6") with what ever length you want, e.g 72" for a 6' board.
the theory is solid and can be applied to most all aspects of boards... thats not a golden ticket to a majic board however.
... I have been quite honest with these builds on this thread, 'They are experiments' I'm not one to blow smoke up my arse and say a board is great when it's not.
No doubt. I'll get a new magic board out of this, one that is mathamatically sound on paper, using curves that have a formula (like a 20 radius ark, or a sector of an oval that is 2m x 0.7m thats the nose outline of this build. the middle rocker is 20ft radius, middle outline is 10.5 radus, even the nose flip is from a section of a long narrow oval. (no need for a computer shaping machine) Then the build becomes a matter of dot to dot. (for any size).
With these methods and a good log of builds (which I have) I can duplicale a board from 10 years ago, using any blank.
This is one of the main reasons I use eps foam. The density is the same the whole way through. I don't have to rely on anyone. Machine or blank.
Tuned the deck roll by lowering the rail bevel to 34.5 mm, tuned the foam distrabution by taking the "extra" foam away from the deck stringer line up front.
Also shaped the bottom single concave, a consistant 22ft radius along the stringer line, up to 44 3/4" from the tail (a GR number).
the depth of the 1/2 way concave is a radius ark of 20ft (or about 3mm)
Drawing the double bat and wing (at 9 3/4" up -GR)
quad concave inside the single concave.... I'm starting to question, wether or not to put channels in?
Start bevelling out the rails
Fingers crossed, I'm quietly confident with this one.
I put a bit of what I think works into it.
...I'll have another look tomorrow, and see if I want to add a bit more grip by putting some side bite channels in......... But, Now... I think not?
looking back at the pics, I think I just may put those channels in... It's all fun.
thought I'd throw these two pics in, with the top light only.
It gives a nice view of the top and bottom curves, and foil