T. H. E. Surfboard..............What's in a name?

T. H. E. Surfboard. Someone, while looking at my most recent big wave gun, commented ‘’…you’d need an extra ball, to ride the waves this thing’s made for.‘’ So, I thought a catchy name was in order. Something descriptive of the boards and people that ride ‘‘those kind of waves.’’ TRES HUEVOS ESPECIAL, as a descriptive name, was born. It lets you know that there’s a little ‘‘something extra’’ required to ride those kind of boards, in those kind of waves. You’ll never feel more alive, than when you are surfing (successfully) in life threatening conditions, with the right equipment. Looking back, the only thing I’d change, is do more of it than I did.

Ah yeses, da older we git the beta wee was.

Well, in typical fashion, you missed the point. But, now that you raise that particular point, I’ll tell you something someone said to me. This comment was made to me, over dinner, after an all day session at Sunset. Waves were a solid 15 feet, all day. Really outstanding size and quality. What that someone said to me, didn’t really register until many years later. What was said was, ‘‘The way you were riding today, you reminded me of a young George Downing.’’ That comment was made to me by Buzzy Trent. At the time I was just 26 years old, and did not really grasp the compliment that was given me. So, I suppose I was pretty good in what were my prime surfing years. And not because I thought so. But because some other folks, with real street cred, thought so.

Thumbs up Bill. Ignore the troll.

Bill, the last time I surfed with George I was about 28, and it was at Makaha on a good day. We surfed the bowl, but the point had waves. I think it was Winter 1986/1987. My cousin and I would dawn patrol Makaha quite a bit that year. There was a surf meet that day, but I went out at sunrise and scored before the crowd showed up. The first couple of waves I had a hard time getting in and got thrown over the falls. I thought it was me, but when I got in and watched some of the better surfers of the day go out, they had the same problem. Made me feel much better to know that it was probably not me, but the waves were jacking up more than normal. Uncle George was well past his prime, about my age now, and he had a hard time getting into waves.
I’m finding it harder to get into surfing on the better days. So many younger people out, trying so hard to take that wave you’ve been waiting for. Had this experience yesterday, and the waves were only solid overhead. But with any early swell, on a weekend there’s a massive crowd. I try to sit outside or off to the side and wait for a wave to come to me. I often score and get that one that no one is in the right spot for. One young guy sat on me for over an hour, just kept paddling to stay next to me. There was one time when the whole pact followed me, so I paddled down a good 30 yards, then when they were all moved over I paddled all the way back. Too bad the sets took so long.
I’ve been sick a lot this month so my strength is not 100 percent, I couldn’t get in as fast as I usually do so I ended up taking late drops. It sucks when you have all these people inside of you and you’re dropping in late. I think someone with a drone may have gotten a good one of me dropping down in the lip going over people paddling out. I had to bail on that one, and luckily no one was hurt.
You know you’re getting old, when someone you don’t think is young tells you his father is your age. I wish I was 30 years younger. I’d still be old compared to the college crowd. Don’t know if I want to deal with the double overhead days if I have to work so hard for waves, then deal with all the people in the way, and I’m not sure if I want to move to a long board like so many others have done.

Seems like a perfectly appropriate name to me. If not cuatro. Mike

3 egg breakfast?
I’ll take scrambled with extra salsa

I don’t know where I first heard it, but we’ used to call the big guns a Rhino Chaser.

" But with any early swell, on a weekend there’s a massive crowd. I try to sit outside or off to the side and wait for a wave to come to me. I often score and get that one that no one is in the right spot for. One young guy sat on me for over an hour, just kept paddling to stay next to me. There was one time when the whole pact followed me, so I paddled down a good 30 yards, then when they were all moved over I paddled all the way back. "
This could be a whole sport sub category for us old geezers. Could be named “Yanking Chain”. I have done similar though since I only have uno huevo, the surf was considerably smaller i.e. typical California kind

And the weaker/lazier/wimpier the current crop of young guns is.

The folklore is that Buzzy Trent coined the term in an interview. Something along the lines of, ‘‘If you’re hunting elephants, you don’t take a .22, you take an elephant gun.’’ Elephant gun, after a few years, contracted down to just plain gun. That term, as you well know, is still in popular use, when describing boards designed for very large waves. I don’t know if it’s true, but it sounds like something Buzzy would have said.

Yeah, I know the Elephant Gun story, but sometime after that, Rhino Chaser started being used.
In the late 80’s a group of older guys surfing in town were using long BK guns. When I say older, I mean in their 60’s, but still surfing a lot. I give them credit because they’d surf town when it was as big as it gets. Ants Guerrero, Grant Kauhane and his brother, and guys Kimo Hollinger’s age used to surf there a lot. Kimo used to surf Courts all the time in the 80’s, but I never got to know him. He kept to himself.
Funny, but when I think of 3 eggs, I think of stories of guys that had that. Kinda hard to walk huh?

Bumping this up, because the surfboard mentioned in the first post, is on display and available at BIRD’S SURF SHED.       It is a nine foot pintail gun, with a chambered bundle stringer.    The board is made with the same templates used for the Pintail Gun I’m riding in my avatar photo.    

Bill, is it the same board that was at the Boardroom Show a few years ago?

Aloha Phebus,

It was not on display as part of the Boardroom, but was displayed at a Vintage Surfboard Collectors Club meeting, that was concurrent with the Boardroom Show in Del Mar.      The club was outside at the west end of the building.     Randy Rarick looked at the board, at that show, and commented ‘‘Well, you’ve still got it.’’     So, I guess the short answer, is yes.

?

Saw the board at the show, a real beauty. 

Any pictures of the board ?? ⚡️

This the one Bill?

 

" Courts". Brings back a few “Town” memories.  But one of the coolest memories was onshore.  Spending the day eating great food with the cousins under a tree at the “Slack Key” Festival.  Talking to George Winston and hearing some great music.