I thought about this version too, but was afraid of feathering edges. But you and LItez convinced me, that this is not really the case. I think I will go this road, which sounds to be the easiest and optically the advantage is, that there is no need for a wider glass or resin strip around the open cork, but just cork.
It maybe a good idea to touch the cork very little with epoxy during the hot coat to avoid feathering, just a little touch, maybe 1-2mm into the cork...
Nope i am german as well :)
Thank you for the tip.
Regarding your problem:
You dont need to seal the Cork, but if you do i heard nature based oil finish works best...
I guess if you dont starve your lamination, you dont need to worry about leakage... The resin will press through and fill all the voids, while climbing. Thats the reason for the peel ply. Just add some catching material like roll paper tissues to catch the excess. Also you are seal coating the board with a layer of epoxy anyway before laminating on it, right?
Another idea would be doing the usual thing and shaping the rails first. As you can see you will angle grind the glass in a way its all enclosed afterwards.
My input is tests
XP234 Diamond white used in conjunction with S glass and 1.0mm NL20 Corecork is totally strong when you put it like this : air-hotcoat-6oz-xp234-Corecork-4oz-xp234-eps
you can not break a 10cm*10cm piece with your hand. But, when you leave out the XP234 you can break it easily. Totally amazing stuff!!
You want a real strong deck with cork? Do a test panel with 6oz/aramid/corecork/6Oz/Aramid fibres [or replace with carbon fibres] on a roll. Aramids and carbons are way cheaper on a roll.
My next tests will be with hand laid up Aramid fibres off a roll [instead of the Tehcnora fibre in the XP234]. I tried some carbon, but have no real proof it is strong, as i did not do several test panels.
Wouter, thanks for posting that. I assume that the cork itself doesn’t add strength. It would be the thickness of the cork that optimizes the composite. Yes?
all the best
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
Sharkcountry, thanks for the explanation. Do you do anything with the XTR to ensure a good bond with the epoxy?
I don't do anything with the XPS to make a better bond. I've found that the laminations don't grip the foam like EPS or PU. I've laminated XPS foam sanded at 60 grit and it is still very easy to strip the glass off cleanly. I like the waterproof side of XPS, but blue dow foam is not the best core material for a board. It is very heat sensitive, and will develop bubbles if the board gets too hot.
I stopped progress with the compsand boards after Bernie got sensitized to epoxy. He was the driving force for all the bagged work we did from 2005 till about 2010. I think we went too deep into the madness with all the different resins and fabrics we tried. When we did Resin X (?), and 2 different epoxy lams (3 boards) at one time, something triggered his allergies. Too bad because 2 people bagging a board or laminating makes it easier and faster. Bernie was the one who came up with the idea of using the XPS on the rails. He was the one who thought of using the woven bamboo sheets as skins and then using the off cuts as "springers" in stringerless Compsand builds. Same for gluing sheets of EPS from Lowes or Home Depot and bending the rockers in. We did all of that in 2005. I'm the laborer.
Charlie, or BB30 is the person who has the bagging and using epoxy processes wired. He taught us how to make the wood veneer boards and everything he does and says is from decades of experience.
Well that thread went on while i was building some new tools... :D
Thank you so much BB30, its always the best to have some masterful example to learn of. I will surely use that technique one day. But Balsa Rails would cost me like 80 Euros, so i will only spend it on a seasoned design :) But i plan on doing nice nose and tailblocks.
So that being said, i will probably go for the XPS Rails for price and ease reasons...
Thank you Sharkcountry i bought 1 lbs EPS in 4" thickness, i guess that should be ok glue line wise... We will see, i might do the longboard just by blocks with 2 transversal glue lines. I also need to have a closer look at your blank threads again...
Thanks Lemat. I went to look for PVC Foam as well... Nowhere to obtain in proper sizes and prices around here...
But i found some stanced XPS 3mm Roll for a good price. So my plan is to do this:
Sorry for the funny numbers, i am used to the metric system
0,07" exposed Cork full wrap
1/32" Veneer or 1/16" woven Bamboo
0,07" mm XPS full wrap
Basically the same but all glass and no cork
Thank you Wouter, i will try to find proper netting somewhere and test it on occasion.
By the way... Should i build in a vent? Never used EPS like this before...
Doing a longboard by hand takes a long time :)
Cut the bands, tomorrow i will finish them up und put the concaves... Then the vacuum fun can begin.