1K and 2K are standard industry terms
The Eastwood site explains it well.
Be safe, have fun. -J
Thanks, I tried Eastwood before, for some reason I can not get that site to load, tried various differnet browsers and even viewed from a US IP address in case they ban limeys by default (can't blame em if they do :D)
On PUPE boards, should we use PU lacquer?
What is PU lacquer???
Come on, your better then that!
"We ain't on our way to Wembley,we ain't gonna win the league. No matter how much they let us down - Westham's still our team"...
Yes, sorry maybe I should have given the long version. PU as in PolyUrethane
Find me the magic wizard selling polyurethane lacquer and I’ll buy you a case!
polyurethane lacquer is a reality in the same way Bigfoot and Nessy exist.
Many people claim to have seen it it in the wild and yet, it’s still not real.
Love the comedy. Do you not believe in PU lacquer then? Is it a kind of Father Christmas deal? I feel so stupid now!
I think you're in the UK so you probably haven't heard of this household name (aka 'magic wizard') called Halfords.....
from the Eastwood site: https://www.eastwood.com/1k-coating-vs-2k-coatings
1K Coating vs. 2K Coatings
There is often confusion and misuse of terms when it comes to describing automotive coatings. Not only do some people not know the difference between 1K and 2K paints, but some people confuse single stage paints and two stage paints with 1K and 2K. Here are some brief definitions that we hope will dispel the confusion.
This is a term used to describe a coating that does not require a hardener, catalyst or activator. This term can be used to describe “single-component” paints that dry in the air (whether latex house paint, or old school lacquer) and nearly all aerosol spray can paints. The 1 Shot sign painters pinstriping paint we sell is 1K enamel.
This describes a coating that needs to be mixed with a hardener, catalyst or activator. Once it hardens it is much less susceptible to damage from chemicals, weather, or UV rays. 2K paints includes all of our Eastwood automotive single stage and base coat/clear coat finishes, “two-component” paints and other urethane finishes. Eastwood's 2K Aero-Spray paints combine the convenience of an aerosol and the durability of a 2K paint (the activator is in a separate compartment).
NOTE: Typically the term "catalyst" (as in epoxy catalyst) is used separately from the terms "activator" and "hardener" because a catalyst does not have isocyanates.
Single Stage Paints
Used to describe a coating that does not require a clear top coat. A single-stage coating can be 1K or 2K, with or without a catalyst, hardener or activator. Plus, a clear top coat may be used in many cases for enhanced durability or depth. You can still get many nice finishes in single stage paints like this
Two Stage Paints
Describes a coating system that requires both base and clear coats. This is more commonly referred to as "basecoat/clearcoat" or "BC/CC". Most base coat/clear coat systems are also 2K coatings, but not all of them are. The base coat provides the color and coverage, while the clear coat, like the Eastwood Premium Show Clear, provides all the gloss and protection.
On a poly resin glass job I would finish with gloss coat and polish. Pretty standard across the industry, IMO, backyarders included.
Yes that was the plan, I am polishing the gloss coat and went through the grits, wet and dry then compound. Somewhere in there I found a few spots where the cloth is just showing. I just want to touch up those small spots and feather in, to seal the exposed cloth.
Usually I would sand it all and do another gloss coat, I learned the hard way this costs money and makes heavy boards! I repulsed at the idea of spraying stuff on my board after all the work, but I realise that's also fairly standard practice for many glass shops so I figured what the hell, it seals it, and as it's only 2 or 3 light spots, its the best move. I think!
I would tape off and recoat the exposed weave area with gloss coat, then feather in the edges. But that's just me, spray is probably easier and faster. Looks like a rail issue, so just remember to butter the rails a little heavier next time, you should be able to avoid the problem. Still, the finish looks good in the pic otherwise.