...hello; depends on your ability and weigth etc but I think that the foil distribution is not the best way; also you runned out of thickness so will be difficult to have a thinner foil tapered out to the tail.
The fish is intended to be 6-8 inches less than your main daily board so if you put the same floatation, could be not enough to have paddling power etc.
In this way, you have a wider nose under your face (head) so the board is one with you when you taking off etc but in your case you put a not so wide nose, flat rocker not foiled shape.
An Agave fish would be not so lively like a modern fish made out of PU
Hey reverb, welcome.
I haven't worked on the foiling yet. Just learned what foil means btw.
Just did a whole bunch of calculating and measuring and i won't be able to make the tickness through out the whole board like the kneeboard fish example jrandy posted on here.
But most of the places it will be possible
I usually surf a eggshaped compact disc walden 6'4" which has about 45l. i weigh about 65kg and 1m80 in height.
Vincentv , so far it's looking good , this is where there will be different opinions , but , I think you are at about your min thickness now , I would try to get a little more tail rocker and increase the nose rocker a little , try to blend the nose and tail rockers into the bottom of the board using the long sanding board , I would not try to foil out the board I do not think that you have enough thickness to lose more wood , Its hard to see the soft/low spot that you are talking about , but if it is not very low , say only 1/8 in or 3 mm , you may be able to correct/lose that amount when you shape the rails , my reasoning is that if you have a soft spot you may end up chasing it and make it worse , but in the end it must be your decision . When you have finished with the bottom adding nose and tail rocker and making sure to keep the bottom dead flat , draw a line 3/8 in / 8 mm around the board on the rail up from the bottom of the board , and , another line 3/8 in around the board on the bottom of the board , now from the half way point say about 36in get a flexy straight edge and taper / reduce the rail 3/8 to 0 at the tip of the fish tail , do this on both rails ,( not on the bottom of the board ), in the fish tail , taper the line from the tip of the fish tail to the deepest part of the fish crack up to 1/2 in , do this on both sides , do not remove any wood yet , now using the same line on the rail that you tapered , draw a line above that , 1/2 higher all around the board , that 1/2 wide band should not be touched until you have done a lot more work on the board it will run from the tip of the fish tail to the nose of the board , from the the top of that line up to the deck is where you are going to start shaping your rail bands , the first should be about 1in in from the rail on the top deck ,draw a line around the deck 1inch in from the rail . and that is where in my opinion you should start to shape the rails , once you have planed / sanded that rail band you will be able to see what will need to happen next , I hope this is clear to you , I do not know how to post a drawing of this process , but if you look in the archives there are pics of how to do this , if you are not sure ask questions , carry on .
Vincentv , do not use a felt pen on the wood the ink will soak into the wood , only pencil . befor you do any more shaping you should have , one line on the bottom of the board following the outline 3/8 inch in , one line 3/8 in up from the bottom of the board on the rail that tapers from the mid point to 0 at the tail , one line 1/2 above the 3/8 line on the rail , this is the most important line , it is your outline , do not go below this line when shaping , one line on the top deck of your board 1 inch in from the rail , you need to visualise a straight line through the wood from the 1 inch line on the deck to the 1/2 line on the rail , this is your first rail band and probably the most important to get right because you are going to work off of this , I urge you to check the archives for cutting rail bands it is not easy to explain but it is very easy to fuck things up at this stage , maybe some else will post pics or a link to rail bands , cutting rail bands is where using an electric plane is the best , but again so easy to fuck up , you have done well so far , take your time . carry on .
Vincentv , when you draw the 3/8 inch line around the outline of the board on the bottom , do not include the low spot you spoke about , try to correct it , use the plane shape you downloaded or use a flexy stick , this line is just for visuall reference at this point . When you get to shaping the first rail band , do not use the angle grinder , use a wood plane or a stanley file or a long sanding board , I am gonna be out of town for a while , if you have questions I am sure some one will help you , good luck , Aloha .
Thank you gbzausa, i've been looking at lots of movies on youtube on how to shape rails and i'm getting a pretty good idea on how it's done. It's a shame that i took of so much wood on the deck on the sides but i'm optimistic.
Back again. Today I had a day off and dove in to the workshop.
I did lots of calculations and measurements to see what i am able to take out as a rocker.
I followed the kneeboard specs as jrandy posted. In the nose at 5feet and 4feet i had plenty of volume and tickness, more then the amount on the kneeboard example so i was able to put a little more nose rocker in there as you can see on the pictures below.
Rocker example was;
POSITION ROCKER KNEEBOARD MY NOSE ROCKER
Nose 3 1/4" (8.26) 8,25cm
63" 3 (7,26) 6cm
58" 2 (5,08) 3,5cm
52" 1 (2,54) 2cm
44" 1/2 (1,27) 1cm
37" 1/4 (0.635) 0,4cm
I am pretty happy with this result. Its pretty close and i still have the full tickness and so flotation.
(Also i calculated all these position inch measurements and made percentages from it so i could use it on my longer 5"10' outline.)
The tailrocker is another deal because starting from the middle to the tail down i have about 1/4" short on thickness. Idealy i want my tailrocker at 1"- 1,5". Right now the tailrocker is at 1/4".
Whats your opinion on this? Loose some volume/thickness in the back and go for more tailrocker or leave the tiny tailrocker as it is and go for the volume in the back...
Also one little detail..
Remember i cutted to deep back in the tail and that i had a soft/rotten spot in the rail.
This is how i fixed it. It was pretty impulsive but it looks good to me.
@jrandy; Any details on the tailrocker of the kneeboard you posted before?
It only says in in detail about the nose rocker on the papers.
V-No other information other than what's in the papers. It looks like the original author may have presented the information as tail rocker=0.
Be safe, have fun. -J