Tons of great info here. Not to get off the subject, but personally I would rather risk some pressure dents with a typical glass job than having the dark bottom. If it is remotely sunny, that board will cook deck down. Flip it and you got a waxy mess. I have always gone with the lighter colors... Dings are inevitable, and certainly dents on the deck as well, but a little mindfulness should keep the bottom pretty clean.
Dont think i'm criticizing here, because I see I have a lot to learn about the properties of the vaious products and combos... but from a novice builder's standpoint, I'd keep it simple, go with the old standbys....
PS- It has been my observation that excessive "ring cracks" like that are common on boards that are too heavily hot-coated.
I'd like to see some pics of the type of problem dings you guys are experiencing.
I use pretty excusively epoxy resin with standard glass on standard polyurethane blanks, and don't have any serious problems with dings. Maybe cuz ding repair is pretty easy with epoxy, and I usually just wait til I get several then patch a bunch at once and sand the whole thing and put on a thin coat (I posted a video of this in another thread). So they don't usually get out of control. Or maybe its cuz I tend to glass heavy, i.e. more glass than most people use.
I guess it helps to have a boatload of boards, too.
I guess my bottom line is this - if you keep up with periodic ding repair, then an overwhelming abundance of dings shouldn't be an issue.
"Everybody is ignorant only on different subjects." - Will Rogers
huck you have your answer, you use thicker composite skin = stiffer and more shear strengh = less buckling, less dents, less dings... But heavier. Basque kook seems to don't like dents, you know the one that are "good for a great connexion to board" that's commercial arguments to sell all those disposable smooth, ooops "flex" overpriced shit.
Basque kook, your surftech don't dent because skins are stiff, that's way your board is hard under your thumb and feel stiff under your feet. that's way it's far durable at same weight than your traditional board, ask windsurfer to come back to traditional build, they'll laugh...
Yes, You know what the decks looked like on those early Sailboards.
My question about the surftech was the comment prior about pe vs epoxy and pressure dents. MS said that PE was better for pressure dents
for sur PE resin even more iso pe resin is better against dents than epoxy, wich is better against dings even more you use Sglass. thicker skin of sglass epoxy on lighter eps foam ended stronger but at some weight.
...a windsurfer board is actually a vessell not a board. This is the first consideration.
Almost all the hard shell PS boards are not good enough in performance and try to mimic the felling of a PU board.
Time ago I was seeing a guy with a pop out Walden longboard and a customer with a special longboard that I made. Both with similar attitude regarding longbboarding riding.
The walden is just a turtle with poor movements and surprisingly not so good to take off waves, so my customer with his beaten PU board took 3 times more waves and performed better than that piece of plank without dents and car painted PS.
Then you have these "Slater designed" without wooden stringers that DENTS a LOT.