Hey yall. Heres a pic of the tested materials
EPS foam (cut from 2'x8 sheet) (sucky quality...3lb density I think. But super cheap)
PE 2mm flooring underlay (green stuff)
Vinyl flooring (random test sample)
And posca paint marker....(wrting)
PL300 foam board adhesive
Thinking I'll upgrade to thicker yoga mats, proper eps foam, and try find some nice clean white vinyl flooring for slick
Seems to make a super flexy and quite durable combo. Thinking I'll make some hand boards for the prototype (less material) will post pics.
Thanks for all.your help and input guys!!
For the last 2 years, I have been playing with Body Board build tech.
I have been using XPS housing insulation -- no significant absorption of water. I wouldn't go below 25 psi min. compressive strength and 1.55 pcf density with XPS.
I have used a Walmart gym/excercise mat (0.4" thick) over shaped, unglassed XPS -- quick bodyboard for the grandkids (3, 1" sheets glued together; 15 psi & 1.3 pcf). I used 3M 78 XPS/EPS adhesive (3 days curing for max. bond strength) for XPS sheets and the gym mat.
Currently, I am playing with 25 psi min comp strength (1.55 pcf) O-C Foamular 250. I perforate shaped foam surface with a modified Topflite Woodpecker tool, before glassing with FG/epoxy. EVA sup mat for deck pad. I sealed the shaped, peforated foam with a thin layer of epoxy resin first. Then I added FG cloth and epoxy after the seal coat had set. I will let the seal coat cure and then sand with 150 grit before adding the FG and epoxy next time.
Next test will be laying up a sheet of 2.5-oz FG cloth over a glass surface to create a thin sheet of FG/epoxy. Then bond that hardened thin sheet to the XPS deck with 3M 78 before glassing with epoxy and cloth in an attempt to further improve FG/XPS bonding.
For a smooth bottom surface, you might try ABS plastic sheet (maybe use 3M 78 adhesive) glued to polystyrene foam. Do some test panels before committing.
FTR this is all experimental still...
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
Great info here, guys. I’ve just recently been wondering how hard it would be to make a soft top surfboard for my daughter or even myself for fun.
Have been thinking about the same. Simplest approach might be an after-market conversion of a standard surfboard using SUP EVA.
BTW the simplest way to add a smooth surface to the bottom of a body board would be to add a layer of FG cloth/epoxy.
Here are pics of the final product "prototype" board
Pl 300 glue
Worked good but didnt have good cutters, and the materials didn't work too well with cleaning up edges with heat gun.
A little bit complicated for the kids I made them with, especially since I was teaching 9 kids at once, but do able nonetheless.
I would use a different glue, preferably clear in the future.
But overall makes a decent quality easy to make water proof board.
Hi Choa! I just came across a cool bodyboard that you tried to make. I am trying to do a similar thing and I was wondering if you experimented at all with trying to heat bond the HIPS to the EPS?
Wandering in after quite a while away and late on this-
A little history: Tom Morey essentially built the first ones out of scraps. Polyethylene foam billet stock. The core was polyethylene foam, same stuff used for shipping box inserts, cut with a hot wire rig. The surfaces were the skins of those extruded billets that had been cut off with the same hot wire rigs, and all glued together with contact cement, which was plenty good enough (the original boards flexed, which was the idea) and you could buy kits, precut core and skins that you would cut to size and stick on with contact cement you picked up at the hardware store.
And there's no good reason you couldn't use the same setup now. There was a company here, Packaging Industries, that figured they could build and sell their own bodyboards, being as they had and indeed manufactured the stuff. They folded some time ago, but these guys may be their successors.
https://newenglandfoam.com/foam/polyethylene/ - several different weights/densities
Hot wire cutter? A 'C' shape, cut out of plywood, a length of nichrome wire and a transformer to get the voltage down ( I used a doorbell transformer) , some appropriate sized wire and a dimmer switch or other rheostat. If you have or have access tto a Varistat, well, there you go. Do a search for nichrome wire sizes versus current, there were several calculators or tables for hobbyists. I looked it all up years ago but forgot them shortly after.
https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=contact+cement for your adhesive.
hope that's of use
Good stuff doc. Glad to know you're still around. When I lived on the Central Coast of Calif; Toobs was right up the El Camino Real in Morro Bay. When they got started they pretty much did the same. These days the Contact Cement is water based I belive. So should be no problems applying to any type of foam. The best one on the market is "WilsonArt" if you can find it. Not usually in the "Adhesives" department. It used to be back in the "Counter Tops/Formica" section of Home Depot.
Toobs still here. https://www.toobs.com/shop/
Welcome back Doc! I too am glad to know you're still around.
PS - please check out "Our Story" part.... CLASSIC!
Thanks for the Toobs link. As you said, "Our Story" is classic.
You've had some classic posts at Sways in the past.
I hope there are more to come.