Those two palnks I made nose to tail and tail to nose will be patterns use to make both side of rails
nose to tail 2 pieces. each piece I need to replicate 5 for times for a total of six taped together planks as shown above
same tin tail to nose pieces replicate each piece 5 times for a total of sixtaped together planks
make piles of every 6 using every other plank for each side. Remember wich side is going to what rail because they are opposite
It's doable. just think it through
I’ve been waiting 15 years for someone to explain how the heck they do that in a production setting.
Thank you, Charlie.
I can't imagine a production shop doing it this way. They would have a set outer perimeter templet for each model they sell and have the rail built in house or outsourced. Possibly placed on outlined board prior to heading to CNC cutter. I am as far from a production shop as you could get. Stone age techniques do work however.
For sandwich skin on 1 to 2 lb eps i try 3mm pvc foam (herex), 2mm cork nl20, around 1mm bulker(sphere core and home made one) and wood (0.6mm hard wood to 1.5mm balsa) mostly with 4oz glass under and over. buckling and dents strength is proportional to skin stiffness, at stiff/weight ratio Pvc foam is the best but puncture (ding) fragile, 2sd light Wood but rot sensible, near equal hard wood, bulker and cork even if it’s far thicker. bulker is very dings résistant. Cork let skin very flexible for is thickness, at same weight a balsa or pvc foam skin is considerably stiffer but cork dampen flex return a lot. it’s a really durable fatigless material.
i mostly do deck and deck+rail sandwich, i made 5 boards à la Bert full sandwich, start with bottom sandwich then add rails then shape and sandwich deck, work on rocker bed to keep rocker correct.
I'm thinking about a cork deck on a HWS too. But I have some problems to understand, how it will work. Hope you can understand the problem:
The cork deck should not be covered with glass, I want a kind of soft top out of cork, which may be impregnated with lanolin.
If I build the core with ribs, deck and bottom and sides, I could laminate the cork on top (using the abouve "peel ply" method, a layer of glass between wood and cork), then I can build up the rails out of railstrips.
But how can I glass the rails and bottom then? If I will do a cutlap version, there is a tiny border between the cork and the glassed rail, which has a certain potential for leakeage...
If , alternativly, I build the core complete, including rails, I coud cover it entirly with glass and laminate the corkdeck on top. But this means I will have a cork edge somewhere, on deck, if I only cover the sole deck, or somewhere in or after the rails, if I would cover them too. What to do with that edge? Will it last or will it be unclean after a short time, teared away, due to forces that can work on it, like sand, feet, or little accidents etc.
How do you guys solve this problem? Do you do Version 1 or 2, and what do you in this case with the cork edge, sanding it down?
@Litez Your name sounds french and you have difficulties getting decent balsa. I'm from Germany and I order my balsa at thomabalsa.de. They sell balsaplanks in different sizes, the most common I use it 2mx20cm. It comes in thicknesses from 1 to 10mm, exactly planed. It is a pleasure to work with it, usually i take the 10mm for ribs and stringers and 5mm for deck, bottom and railstrips. The price is acceptable, between 100 and 150€ per board, depending on the size and they may ship to France too, Just contact them. Here in Germany I pay about 25€ shipping for a parcel that is 2m long, and about 20cm wide and high.
Sharkcountry, how do you accommodate the outline when you do the XTR rail bands? Do you have outline templates that are more narrow by the width of the rail band? Or do you cut the rail band width off after shaping then add the XTR bands?
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
I plan for the extra foam when I make the board, so I have about an inch of board that I know will be added later, and I know pretty much what the rail should look like.
If it's a compsand, I do the bottom, then add a single 1/8" wood piece along the perimeter. I'll mark the rail and work the deck down to where it needs to be then add the deck skin. When the deck is on, I either lay the board onto the xps and trace the outline, or I make a paper template and then cut the XPS. I make relief cuts in the foam to help it bend around the nose. Once the XPS is glued on I shape it. I only use the bag to glue on the skins, I use tape to hold the rails on.
If it's not a full compsand I add the rails when I shape the board. I often get the bottom shaped about 95% then add the XPS.
When I do balsa rails, I often build them up slowly, it depends on what wood I use. I have all kinds of small pieces that I'm trying to use up and many are only 18" long, so I might build up a rail using a bunch of 1/4" x 1/4" x 18" sticks staggered to avoid weak spots, or I might use 1/4" x 1/4" x 4' long pieces. I've cut them from 1/4" and 1/8" thick x 4" wide sheets as well. I Like the way I can bend the 1/4" sticks along the rail curve, but it's a lot of work. I've cut 1/4" thick redwood slats into 1/4" x 1/4" strips for a nice contrast on a couple of wall hanger boards. I prefer using wood glue when I make the rails. but I think it adds extra weight. Charlie's processes have always been the most efficient I've seen. Bernie and I are very lucky to have him as our teacher.
Right now I'm just making boards for myself out of a short blocks of foam I bought years ago. Still playing with design ideas and fin layouts that you won't be able to get anyone else to make. The board I'm making now was going to be a double ender (fin boxes on both ends), but I decided to make the nose normal and the rails might be too soft. This maroon colored board was just finished and I plan to give it to Bernie.
That cranberry balsa board is nice Harry. Awesome instruction sheet at nose for suggenstions on possible manuvers with imcoming close out sets.
Hi Charlie, hope all is well with you and your family. One of these days Bernie and I should come by and say hi.
I am not sure if I understand your process, but if leakage is the problem, why don't you glass the whole board like normal and put the cork on in the end? I put masking tape around the cork and carefully sand the edges down to the tape before hotcoat. It will feather a tiny bit,but not too bad... I get my balsa from the same guy;)...