Jim made my wife's 9 footer with tourquoise bottom and wrapped rail like yours. I asked for full tourquoise top and bottom but ed said it woulb bee too much. Did not understand this comment until I statrted doing some color on my boards. Way cool stories about your surfing advnetures in the 70's. By the time my upstate new york farmer ass got into surfing I was too committed to family, as in wife and kids, to experience it like you guys did. The last time I rode Jim's board he made for my wife was the day Todd Chesser died. I was at haleiwa and the surf came up HUGE in a few hours time and I got so barrelled going left I was belly laughing. Sold the board on the way in to surf and sea to a local for $200. Got deployed in the army to the desert and got to come back to hawaii alive 2 1/2 years later. The same board came back to me for a repair from a different customer that fell off the roo fof his car on H-1 in 2000. Unreal the circle of things. I wasn't belly laughing with the effed up board repair that I last got tubed on however. Great story Bernie. Love that you still have the board also.
epic pic and story!!
Ordered my two real custom surboards in Jan 1991 from ed searfoss at country surfboards. Got a 9' longboard for my bride and a 7'6" regular large surfbaord thruster outline. All glass on Thruster fins. Got some advice from Ed regarding where to start out on the NS. Told me Haleiwa and Chun's Reef. I know of Haleiwa but Ed's directions to chun's reef was accurate but for one circumstance. He tells me if I can't catch a wave at chun's reef I should sell my board and buy a moped.., it is that easy of a wave. So he tells me the location of chuns and how to find it by all the cars parked on the side of the road. What he doesn't tell me is that chuns when waves are over 10 feet closes out and no cars will be parked there because it is closing out. I show up in the days of limited surf reports or any that I would inderstand, and I am looking for a crowed parking lot. No cars parked anywhere. Finally ?I see three cars parkled and pull over. I am at leftovers of a 12-18 foot old school report wave day thinking I am ant chuns. I see two guys out way to the right. Looks really scary to me but the voice of Ed" you're a effin pussy if you can't handle chun's" is in my mind. Wax up paddle out on the 7['6" okole fat boy pilot board towards the other surfers. Start chatting them up. The first thing they start telling me is that I seem to be undergunned for the wave conditions. I say I understand Chun's is a beginners wave. They Tell me I am at marinjuans's. Both haole surfers with most exaggerated surfer lingo of california imaginable. Now I relaize I am in some serous shat. Floated for 2 hours before I had the nerve to try to go in. Caught no waves, Made it to my car, and told Ed the whole story. He tells me I was at alligator rock and should have been fine. No such thing as craiglist in those days, so looking for a used moped was harder than giving up surfing. Oh the memories!!!!
Great story man.
The board was made by an Ewa Beach local, Bernie's classmate. Bernie had it custom made for another classmate of his and Bernie used it a couple of times and he rode it well. I bought it from him after Bernie went to UW. Either my dad or Bernie ended up giving it to a neighbor. It sat in the back yard under the mango tree from 1975 till the 90s.
I hope the bad weather has not been a problem for you being right on the water. Take care!
I've told this story before here on Sway's. I was lucky to live right across the hwy from Sunset, in front of Squiddy's place. There was a strong swell building and I'm still fairly fresh off da boat surfwise. It was a west filling in at Sunset and everyone was getting hammered including me. I was doing nothing but paddleing and swimming. Not much riding. Graciously, my buddy Russell sees me struggling and says to go paddle over to Kammies and watch for lefts. He was right, more manageble. Started catching waves and having fun when I grabbed a closeout six footer. Caught in the impact zone, suddenly, I'm pushed to the bottom but in a sitting up position. The water starts shoving me in and down, and there I am sitting on the bottom (thank Heavens it was late summer and still sandy bottom). The push is pretty strong and I'm FLOORING it on my ass and held down going for the crazy ride. Pushed to deeper water, I finally paddle in and see I've got road rash on my ass and back of legs. To this day, one of the oddest "wipe outs" I've had.
...hello Tblank, if may I, what type of board you were using that day? Strong currents? You picked up a board for an intended size but the surf s up?
Pilot s error?
--To have reference of where do you lived; what distance from the corner of Kam hwy and Paumalu street?
Howzit Reverb? Hope things are well with you. I had a Mike Casey mini tanker but the nose was pulled in more than normal. I think it was 7'8" tri fin thruster. I'm not real sure on the dims but it was somewhere near, 14" N. 20.5 13T. 3". I was waiting on a Chuck Andrus Sunset gun to get finished and this board was available to use that day.
We were about five or six driveways up on the D'Amico"s side from Paumalu. East of the creek.Mike's shack was next to mine, Shared the driveway with Squiddy Sanchez and Bernie Baker. I know it is A LOT different now but, there was the parking turnout at Sunset and the last house just west of Val's was right across Kam Hwy from our driveway. Next door to Ed Searfoss' glass shop.
Pilot Error? You bet! How else do you get road rash on your a$$ surfing?
It was easier to go to Mr Kammies' than go all the way to Foodland.
ps. Damico's was a pizza joint when I was there and then turned into a bakery/restraunt after that. Susan Allen had it as a pizza shop at the time with good breakfasts too.
Good stories guys. Great pic Charlie. Yeah a wife and kids will do it every time. Spent most of my years on outer Islands. Very little time on the North Shore. Lowel