~~Just a note, this site doesnt present well on mobile, the 'point' button obscures the 'reply' button. if your getting points added or deducted from me it's accidental.
Dane do you do the glassing as well? Great work! Are you partial to one brand of epoxy?
Hey thanks for that. Yes we do all the glassing in house, actually ALL facets of production are done in house and on occasion we even fabricate blanks. I'm personally involved in shaping, laminating, setting fins, vacuum bagging, sanding and whatever else needs doing at the moment. I hand foil all glass ons also.
Most glass shops are not capable of doing our glasswork and if they are, it isn't economically feasible.
As far as epoxy is concerned I use ProLink and Resin Resin Research exclusively. ProLink has been very helpful in accomodating my special requests.
Special note, for any kind of vacuum bagging or complex layup I prefer Pro Link. We have excellent results with their resin and a 'friendlier' working time. Moreover, in hot summer months I prefer the viscosity of Pro Link especially on our Convex models and anything with a channel bottom. Pro Link tends to stay put which is great for pasting as well as keeping hot coat from pooling into channels and gutters.
On the last photo Gordof provided:
There's at least 3 different cloths:
- carbon on rails
- carbon/aramid on middle
- and a last one with hexagons... What is this last cloth ?
I there a tech' reason to this patchwork of very technical materials or is it partly a design matter (wich is a good reason) ?
Thank you for taking some of your time to participate to the hot seat !
That carbon is called Wasp 3k, it's a carbon twill. The aramid hybrid cloth I'll layer over the Convex feature on stepup boards because is it allows the feature to absorb greater heel impacts, it gives the Convex feature some added tension and it also adds extra drive weight to the board. Plus it looks cool which of course we all know is the most important thing.
jeff alexander/gemni and ryan burch's new thang
"ain't no big ting brudda"
I think Jeff is a maverick, I think the Gemini was/is incredibly innovative and I think there's been alot of infringement on Jeff's innovation without permission, proper acknowledgement or even thanks.
I like Ryan's boards, although I've never ridden one, we've all seen footage and it's hard to argue with the results. I've met Ryan once and he seemed like a very decent person so I'm certain he's good with Jeff. I appreciate Ryan's use of alternative build methods. Personally I feel great boards are an amalgam of good shape AND material construction. Bob Simmons exemplified this relationship with his work, I think we should also for many reasons.
In general I'm a big fan of alternative craft, but there's got to be evidence that the design not only works but WORKS WELL. I've seen and ridden quite a few esoteric designs where your just so stoked the damn thing didn't crack in half and sink to the bottom you're momentarily fooled into believing
"It Works!!" when the reality of the situation is more like 'it doesn't NOT work'.
Pride, ego and cost all seek to cloud the truth.
Board builders have got to be very honest with themselves and entirely pragmatic.
Dane- My question relates to design theory & with your alternative designs, I'm hoping you've got the answers I was looking for. Due to various physical limitations (back, knees, shoulders), my surfing is limited to the wind driven variety (kitesurfing & windsurfing) & the trend seems to be skewing towards wider, shorter boards. I'm 5'10 & 210#s and ride a 6'1" x 19-1/4" x 2-1/4" board in the mushy closeouts of the central coast of california. This board performs well in the spring when the winds are strong, but lacks drive in the summer/fall when winds lighten up. I think additional width would help keep the board "up & light" until I drop in & use the power of the wave, but I don't want it to drive like a barge if too wide.
What I was wondering is - have you discovered any kind of ideal length to width ratio that is constant for any given conditions and can be applied to different length boards. What I mean is- can you adjust the dimensions from one board to another that would allow two different boards to perform roughly the same. As an example, If you start with the 6'1" x 19-1/4" and wanted to make another board that is, lets say 5'8" x ? and have it perform roughly equal. How would I figure that out? I understand that rocker & bottom profile will greatly affect how a board performs, but I would want to keep those two constant to minimize the variables.
Thanks for volunteering your valuable time to participate in the Hot Seat.
Age and injuries are great huh? In April 2000 I had my left leg amputated and surgically reattached so I know all about this phenomenon.
Truthfully speaking I know very little of kite and windsurfing. While planing is involved in both disciplines, you're being pulled along, while a surfer is being pushed.
However, in the surfing world, I will tell you on standard shortboard outlines in average local conditions these are the culprits which I have found to be drive killers.
With regard to ideal sizing between different board models while I haven't discovered an ideal ratio between length and width, I have found being mindful of volume to be very helpful.