What a great post, thanks very much. I think you may be onto something there. He doesn't have a belly (I don't feed him enough for that :0-D) but he is stocky and def on the heavy side.
So I better get it back on the stands and do some work on it? What would you recommend? Just rub the areas back to glass, resin and patches until it's flush and smooth?
He loves the board and so he should as it took 3 times as long as any other I have made for him. The pin lines underneath has made me allergic to pin lines for a while!! So it would be nice to keep it dry and prevent any delams if poss.
I would first sand the indents back, then use a hair drier to gently heat the area. If there is water within it will seep into the sanding scratches. Do not cover until it is dry.
I do not worry about sanding deck patches flush. I am more concerned with not sanding away strength.
I've been using the poor man's vaccuum bag trick. some ziplock freezer bags placed tightly across the layers of saturated cloth and a squeegee pulling the cloth tight from the middle to the edges and removing all excess epoxy. I use tape to confine the resin and put some paper towels at the edge of the tape to absorb the extra resin. When the resin thickens I use a new razor blade, cut inside the tape and remove it, leaving the plastic over the repair. When the epoxy has cured i peel off the plastic and take a rozor blade and knock down teh edges. wax the board and go surf.
The poorman's vaccuum bag trick can get much more saturated fiber applied for less thickness, and I really enjoy the no post sanding required factor. But keep in mind I am not seeking perfection.
Whats also a good feature of the PMVB trick is it pulls the cloth super tight across the indent, and with no extra resin, which does not really do anything for strength.
I've not tried this with PE resin.
If there is still water in the ding then it will blow bubbles through the patch. If you do this in rising temperatures it can blow bubbles under the patch while it cures. I prefer to warm the area of the board first and work as the board is losing temperature and will suck resin into the ding as it cools and contracts.
Excellent info, thanks
Interesting thanks. I didn't realise epoxy was THAT much stronger than PE. I do keep saying I will try epoxy one day, and I will!
I hear that epoxy is stronger, I'm not sure epoxy is all that much stronger than poly, but it is more flexible. So it doesn't tend to get those brittle glass cracks that let water in.
"Everybody is ignorant only on different subjects." - Will Rogers
That poor man's vacuum bag technique works great!
As for the dents, why not get some of that cork and glue it on as a traction pad?
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
Yes I could do, but want to make double sure it's sealed
most epoxyies used for surfboards are slightly flexible than poly (young modulus, ie stiffness modulus) and have double elongation to break. So everything equal if you use epoxy instead of poly on this board you will have bigger dents but no spider web. there is a nice demo of this somewhere in kazuma instagram. for same foam the only way to reduce dents is to increase skin stiffness = increase material stiffness (carbon instead of glass) and or increase thickness (more layers and or a sandwichskin tech to keep weight down). remember each time you double skin thickness with same stiffness range material, you x8 overall stiffness. by compacting lam and reduce thickness, vac bag is worst to reduce dents, better is to introduce air to increase volume and thickness= foaming resin . Windsurfs are build with sandwich skins and lot of carbon on ultra soft eps, they don’t dent even if they take way more loads. But be carefull stiff skins+ stiff stringered foam = stiff board.
For low dents surf,sup and kite, i use 1 to 2mm light wood sandwiched between layers of glass and some carbon for dentless, on mid density eps core, it work. i use foaming resin microsandwich tech too which reduce significatively dents on cheaper, classic look dented boards that surfers like.
i sandwiched a skin a wood layer on a old pu pe repaired long boards for an really heavy guy, no more dent and break for 5 years of heavy used.
Hi Helter. I would say that is not normal on a newer board. Over time all boards get pressure dings. It looks like the foam is crunching around the stringer. Perhaps you are not getting your stringer flush with the foam before laminating or cutting too deep into the deck foam where the foam is softer. Mike
Possibly, although I definitely plane the stringer down flush. Bloody annoying but if it's just par for thr course then I can accept it. About to repair it anyway