Funny... another person asking for help, but has all the answers to why he won't or can't do it the way people suggest.
Really dude? One response was to strip it or shape a new board - not there yet, bro. Another was to remove the nose completely and glue in new foam, which makes sense, but it just seemed easier to remove a bit of the nose and reshape it and keep the original foam intact. Plus I'm using fairly rudimentary tools, and I'm not a pro at this.
But hey, thanks for your sound advice!
You just did it again.
Ha! Touché! I see what you mean.
Im just gonna do it my way and hope for the best.
This is funny. And I have been in every position there is on this, including using epoxy to repair poly resin boards (all the time!), ha ha.
Resinhead sure did a nice job on that bumblebee longboard! Was there a thread on that one?
This thread is what swaylocks is all about for me, hope the pics keep coming!!
"Everybody is ignorant only on different subjects." - Will Rogers
I'm wondering what the weight difference was on that bumblebee board after the repairs. Looks real nice.
What's wrong with using epoxy to repair poly boards?
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
No thread on this one, kind of over Swaylocks...just poped in and saw this thread, read it...went ohhh nooo! (cause that board was a great candidiate for a classic look) and I chimed in.
Patch it, color it, sand it, hang it. Not much difference in weight...before patched it weighed 33 lbs, after fixing it weighed 36 lbs...still heavy as fark. You get the jist of what needs to be done from the pics. yellow first, then do black panels. Always remember dark colors over light. All dings must be glass panel flat, all heal dents flat...no wobbles, crack, proud spots or diviots....completely sealed and flat prior to color work.
Back to under my rock...bye bye.