Hi Dwight, a lot depends on the epoxy your using. It can also depend also on how chemical sensitive you are. And certainly a full cure will reduce the chemicals available that can cause some reaction. The chemicals don't disappear from the epoxy they instead react within the chemistry instead of relating to your skin. Fully reacted resin is inert. But it takes a week at room temperature to achieve full cure. Before that there is still reactivity going on. All epoxies are not equal when it comes to sensitizing skin. Some may cause very significant problems, some cause almost none. I designed ours for me and my crew. It was very important to me to have the safest thing I could get.
Awhile back I ruffled some feathers when I said that working with Resin Research Kwik Kick in extreme heat (over 100 degrees f) I cut back a little on hardener, got a lecture about exact ratios, weakening the mix, etc. So is that a real no-no? I didn't experience any strength issues that I noticed, but wanted to hear it from the source.
"Everybody is ignorant only on different subjects." - Will Rogers
Hi Everysurfer, we have a low viscosity system, the Composite Pro System. It primarily for infusion, fabric intensive composites and fabrics that are difficult to wet. Look at our website resinresearch.net under composite pro. 2070 is probably where to start.
I don't like doing that Huck, it does make the board yellow faster. Instead, laminate a side in two batches. Mix the first batch and do the stringer to one rail, finish that, mix the second batch and do the other side. No one ever did this in the polyester days because it didn't work well but with epoxy this works great. I do 12 foot SUP's in summer in Arizona no problem.
Hoo-hoo, glad I asked, thanks!
Awhile back someone gave a tip for avoiding fish eyes on hot coat, thin cheater coat then apply the full hot coat when the cheater coat gels - haven't had a chance to test it, is this a valid process in your opinion?
Cleanliness, I have fond memories of those good ole days too. Things were much simpler back then. Waves were better too.
BTW, had a fun day of Golf with Ed Angulo, Steve Walden and Don Bowers today. At the 19th hole after a few beers we figured that together we had a total of 186 years of shaping experience. Damn we're old.
You know, I've never really had fish eyes and could never figure what people were doing to get them, especially since Additive F. Then I found it. I buzz the laminate with some 100 or 80, then wipe off the dust with a paper towel or old t shirt and the hot coat the thing making sure you brush it out enough times to make it flow. That's all there is to it. It's the brushing that does the trick.
Newbie type question(s), if that's OK?
With all your experience and knowledge, what tips or tricks would you give to someone moving from PE glassing to Epoxy?
What would you recommend for an inexperienced "backyarder" - Epoxy over PU or Epxoy over EPS / XPS?
Thanks for your time.
Surfboard Design and Construction Kook
Hey Greg - back when I was a grom there was a magazine issue, either Surfer or Surfing...featuring "The 25 most influential shapers of all time" or such...and there amongst the usual suspects was yourself, pictured with a big block of EPS. It'd be a spin-out to see that again.
That was my introduction to you, and of course I later worked with you. That was a pleasure - I fondly remember watching you mix the RR formula by kicking a 44 gallon drum up and down the drive...so non-rocket science it was a relief!
All the best