Hi Chrisp. I've had 2 encounters the last 2 years. That's after surfing fourty five plus years and never seeing a thing. The juveniles come in every summer now. Cute little 8 footers. Probably weigh 600 pounds. It used to be' look out in the red triangle'. Especially, in the Fall. Now there all up and down the coast. Even in Socal. I keep hoping the orcas will move into the area and clean up Dodge City. Mike
My friend is also in this NSSA National Team picture along with some recognizable faces. ;^}
...hi Sharkcountry, I am in the know of that period of the year but this is kind of an invitation from a guy that have about 20 North shore seasons (3 to 6 months there) and some 15 or more of Indonesia seasons so I do not think that he wanted to go in April or so.
Again I am not seeing me riding those waves, more after all the damage I have and four years without Surfing but if I have the opportunity could be good to take it due to he can put me in contact with plenty in the Industry there.
Hey Reverb, it's not always huge during the peak winter months. There are many years that don't get the really big surf, but recently it's been pretty good. There are also a lot of places where you could go that offer smaller waves when it's really big on the NS. As far as the Surfboard industry here, you might be surprised to see what is going on here. Most of the main shaping work is done by machines, then cleaned up and customized as needed. There are still true hand shapers, but so many use the machine because it's easier to start with a preshape. At least you'd be able to get into the water without a wetsuit.
You should go reverb. Seriously. You would enjoy it. Lots of pressure free surf spots that you don’t read about in the magazines. Great food . You might even find yourself a wahine. Not the California scene that you often refer to. Some great factories and collectives. With an open mind you would completely enjoy it.
I'm all for NOT wearing a leash when surfing by myself with no one else is in the water or even walking on the beach. Was on the OBX a few summers ago and the beach was packed with people and kids. Waves were fairly small but one goobus (pretty good surfer, actually) was surfing without a leash and lost his board. It washed in and almost hit a kid. The parents didn't notice and the kid didn't notice, but I noticed. I was tempted to crease this guy's board but held off. When he came in I explained that he should have been wearing a leash and his board almost hit a kid playing in the sand AND I EVEN OFFERED A LEASH FOR HIS SESSION, he told me to f-off and paddled back out. I was going to paddle out and sit on him, but that would have just casued more problems. But I truly regret not creasing his board. Geez, this makes me mad just thinking about this.
Really?? Cease his board? Like the Gestapo? Sounds more like the parents should have been arrested.
It all comes down to just be responsible. There’s time when it’s appropriate to not wear a leash, but times when the responsible thing to do is wear one for the safety of others.
I learned to surf without a leash. There were no leashes. We called em kook cords when they first came out. People held on to their boards, through the breaking waves, if they fell, they tried to fall on the board and hang on to it. If you paddled out, you took responsibility to watch out for incoming boards. Sometimes you could grab one, and bring it with you to some thankful swimmer.
I have been injured by more leashed boards than unleashed. Guys just bailing and not watching whats in their path, or actually falling off backwards while looking right at me and inadvertently sending their board like a missile directly at me. In the crowded lineups of L.A. I have run over a few hapless souls who put themselves directly into the path of takeoff, I always apologized and paddled over to make sure they were ok.
I guess I've been on all sides of the issue. Its a risk paddling out, or swimming in a surfing area. Leash or no leash, safety is about being aware, for yourself and others. I always try to remind myself, when surfing crowded waters, that no wave is worth injuring another surfer, better to lose the wave than hurt someone. But bottom line is, the ocean is unpredictable and powerful, sometimes we have one idea and the wave has another.
I see guys in the paths of incoming boards just bob and watch it come hit them. Man, take action, swim under!!
Anyway, safety is important. We should look out for each other.
"...Swaylocks.com, a strange message board filled with a cast of eccentric, underground surfboard builders..." - Slide Magazine
Wow I didnt know the Gestapo surfed , you can learn sumthing every day on Sways .