still not there yet fellas
no im ready to just throw in the towel
so spit it out then
happen 2 things:
1- you have a kind of "eroded" surface
that occurs beacause you sanded the hot coat with a too much softer pad
you can see this in FLATS
like Kokua said, grab a denser pad and sand again
2- bad technique and/or pad
like Balsa said,
redo and sand with proper pad in flat position; in some areas you can up the pad to 15º but no more (15º is very little)
-if you dont have experience sanding with pads, better sand flat
-for sanding hot coats, go with a sander/polisher and power pads brand (for the heavyness in the construction)
sand the flats with the Red and then change to the Yellow (soft pad)
-for gloss coat go with Ferro brand and use the supersoft one
-if you dont live in USA, you still can buy those pads via internet
i know a pro glasser that still finish off with a block by hand
get a block of wood 1/3 the size of a sheet of sandpaper and glue some eva foam to it
you can hand sand a board very quickly if u do it within a day
machines take some skill
Thanks all for your help and advice.
I did use the advice of Kokua and i rehotcoated the board and sanded it with a harder pad.
After this i used the harder pad again and again but with finer and finer sandpaper up to 400.
I'll buy 600,800 and 1200 to sand it up and polish it. It already looks smooth. A lot better than before.
There are only some little tiny 'holes', like upside-down bumbs. Can i apply hotcoat just on that spot?
I hope someone is willing to help me again.
Those upside down bumps are most likely seperations. They come from a not so clean environment. Make sure there is no dust or more importantly fingerprints on the board. Give a quick scuff with 120 grit over the whole board just before glossing. After scuffing don't touch it unless you have clean gloves on. Skin oil is a good contaminant for causing seperations. Blow off the board thoroughly while wiping with clean gloves or clean towel. Tape off your rails. Make sure all doors are shut and there is no breeze blowing around the room. Give some time for any airbourne dust to settle after closing doors.Take some 2 inch tape sticky side down and wipe it across the flats (check the tape after to see how much more dust it picked up after you thought you had it all lol). Mix your resin then use a paint strainer to strain your gloss resin to remove any dirt or debris. Make sure your brush has been cleaned thoroughly in fresh acetone (important). Viola seperations gone!
Wassup Bud, forgot to mention that this was for boards to be glossed. If I've got the good 100 grit I'll use that. If I'm doing sand finish I'll start with 120, 180, 220 then wetsand with 400 wet or dry. Gotta practice on them rails is all I can say. I get lot's of stuff with wings etc.. these days so I pretty much gloss alot of stuff. Sand finish are tricky to get a clean shape and no visible weave. Hint: The tighter your lam the better your chances. How you take down the bottom lap is important as well. I paint just a little hotcoat on the bottom lap when I hotcoat the deck. Lap melts right in without stripping off if your good with the machine. No gummed up paper. Hard pad on the laps. Flattens it right out. If I've got glass-ons, or heavy concaves, wings and such that requires a sand finish I usually sand the tail and tune everything in, then just blend a little patch hotcoat on the tail. Lets me sand it down right instead of careful, and no noticable weight if you do it clean..
I like to see nice smooth/fine directional scratches going nose to tail. Never was a fan of a machined finish whether jitterbug or orbital etc. Takes just a minute or two per side by hand and does so much since your wetsanding. IMO anything above around 120 is a smoothing grit. Here in california it's been a cold winter. The resin is only flowing out so much even with the heater on and doors closed. I'm sure your not having that problem lol so your hotcoats and glosses flow out real flat. I still feel that the board should be sanded..then smoothed out. You get closest to the original shape the shaper intended...