That thread was about sun damage on the bottom. Two separate issues.
Wow! Bummer! Yes sand it all off. I don’t think you can do that without damaging your paint job. But that’s probably the source of your problem anyway. Rattle can spray jobs are always done on the sanded hotcoat. Then they can be sealed with the Acrylic Sealer.
Krylon makes an 'H2O' paint in a spray can that is water based. It actually works OK on surfboards. Several people here on Swaylocks have used that type with success.
The word latex on that can of paint would scare me away. Liquitex and other brands do have water based acrylic rattle can paints that you can use with confidence.
Thanks for the comments everyone.
Was at the Paddle For Clean Water in OB (San Diego) yesterday. I didn't get this fixed in time so I did the paddle on my 6'10.
If anyone was there, I had the Parts Per Million art installation set up at the end.
As far as this project, I'm not home this week, so I'll start back up on it when I get home this weekend. I'll keep y'all posted.
Oh god, rustoleum. I watched a beautiful color job crystalize right before my eyes as my epoxy hardened over rustoleum paint. It was terrible. I've done spray paint a handful of times and every one is a crap shoot. I know now, don't ever use rustoleum. You'll have better luck with the el cheapo home depot matte (not gloss) spray paint than you will with rustoleum. And, I bet I could give you a run for your money with the world's worst hot coat (and 2nd and 3rd hot coat). Did you by any chance handle the board, feel the rails, eye the shape multiple times before your hot coat? If so, that is one cause of your terrible orange peel. And I get it, I always handle my boards after every sanding, but it's a great way to get oils and whatever on your board.
It sounds like you're going to sand it all down and re-glass; which is probably the best course of action, especially if you want the lightest board possible. If you don't want to sand too much, you can always throw on 2 or three extra 'hot coats' to try and fill in some of the voids. If you do this, it will still require a sanding but maybe not as labor intensive. Also, if you go this route, make sure to wipe down the entire board, especially the divots, with denatured alcohol before you glass. Honestly, I've done both and they both have pros and cons.
But hey, look at it this way. There is no way you can do a worse glass job than this, so your next one is gonna be 100x better.
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.