The yellow "Pig" shown on Velzy site looks like the wide point point is back pretty far. Another name for that outline might be a reverse tear drop.
On an old (early 60s) Weber I had, the wide point was nearly two feet back of center. The overall length was 9 feet so proportionally, that was pretty far back also.
After analyzing old school longboards like that, I've come to the conclusion that the pronounced outline curve, tail rocker and belly made the big blade skegs necessary for any kind of stability.
A peek at old surf movies featuring Dewey Weber show that he could really crank those things around.
A mate of mine from Raglan days ( Marcus James ) had a super Pig board, an aussie 9 footer ( SKY surfboards ) like a massive lazor zap, with a star fin, like this thing was an EXTREME pig, super wide and thick in the tail, with wide point way back, and a late nose flip nose rocker on a narrow rounded nose, anyway the board was radical just hung in the pocket and rolled turns any which way. . Marcus is about 110kg and jammed that big tail around with power. . . . not a noseriding pig buzz, more of a constant roll on the tail, but the best I have ever seen him surf, maybe time to flip the old planshape end for end, what the H ?
I shaped a pig awhile back out of a 9'-9"W and these where the final dimensions.
9'-3" Length
16" Nose
22.5" Widest point back 12" from center
16.5" Tail
4.5" Tail block
Also I foiled a 1/2" thick marine ply D fin 10"Hx11"B placed all the way back. The bottom is rolled under the nose all the way to the tail.
50/50 rails pinched out in the tail.
At the moment I don't have any pictures of it but I'll get around to it soon.
I personally like wider fins (10"-12" base) on these shapes and glassed on all the way back on the tail. Also put a good amount of roll in the tail and don't make the tail block so wide. Here's a rough drawing of one that I made awhile back.
dear mikey,
thanks a lot for your precious drawing, really usefull.
I see you have a 4.5 tail block but your board is 9.3. Do you think a 5'' can be good for a 9.6?
I like "D" skegs but to make it more manouvrable, besides these ones, I am wondering about something similar to one of these shapes:
rainbow el gato (greg noll replica, used on similar boards in late sixties)
true ames heritage (10.5'')
true ames velzy noserider (10'')
a retro pivot (10.5'')
Since it will be glassed on what do you think will be the best (other shapes are welcome)?
I will shape the fin myself so I can fine tune it but I am really confused...
Thanks
The yellow "Pig" shown on Velzy site looks like the wide point point is back pretty far. Another name for that outline might be a reverse tear drop.
On an old (early 60s) Weber I had, the wide point was nearly two feet back of center. The overall length was 9 feet so proportionally, that was pretty far back also.
After analyzing old school longboards like that, I've come to the conclusion that the pronounced outline curve, tail rocker and belly made the big blade skegs necessary for any kind of stability.
A peek at old surf movies featuring Dewey Weber show that he could really crank those things around.
Hi John,
A mate of mine from Raglan days ( Marcus James ) had a super Pig board, an aussie 9 footer ( SKY surfboards ) like a massive lazor zap, with a star fin, like this thing was an EXTREME pig, super wide and thick in the tail, with wide point way back, and a late nose flip nose rocker on a narrow rounded nose, anyway the board was radical just hung in the pocket and rolled turns any which way. . Marcus is about 110kg and jammed that big tail around with power. . . . not a noseriding pig buzz, more of a constant roll on the tail, but the best I have ever seen him surf, maybe time to flip the old planshape end for end, what the H ?
;0
I shaped a pig awhile back out of a 9'-9"W and these where the final dimensions.
9'-3" Length
16" Nose
22.5" Widest point back 12" from center
16.5" Tail
4.5" Tail block
Also I foiled a 1/2" thick marine ply D fin 10"Hx11"B placed all the way back. The bottom is rolled under the nose all the way to the tail.
50/50 rails pinched out in the tail.
At the moment I don't have any pictures of it but I'll get around to it soon.
dear all
don't know if this helps but I designed the following outline basing of old '60 pig (see attached pic).
its dims are:
L: 9.6
W: 23''
N: 16'' 1/2
T: 16''
Tail block: 7''
I need some suggestions:
1) Do you think tail block is too wide?
2) What kind of fin will you glass on? D fin? pivot? something else? what size?
Please feel free to share pics.
Thanks a lot
1023820_the pier_9.6_resized.jpg
my 1965 hobie pig: 9'6"x 23"x16 3/4" nose 16" tail 5" tail block 4 1/4" nose rocker 4 1/2" tail rocker. 4 inches thick
thank you,
but what about fin to mount?
here follows the outline of "my" last PIG (still in project...but coming soon!)
What do you think?
1023821_the pier_9.6_resized.jpg
I personally like wider fins (10"-12" base) on these shapes and glassed on all the way back on the tail. Also put a good amount of roll in the tail and don't make the tail block so wide. Here's a rough drawing of one that I made awhile back.
1023822_Pig Shape.pdf
dear mikey,
thanks a lot for your precious drawing, really usefull.
I see you have a 4.5 tail block but your board is 9.3. Do you think a 5'' can be good for a 9.6?
I like "D" skegs but to make it more manouvrable, besides these ones, I am wondering about something similar to one of these shapes:
rainbow el gato (greg noll replica, used on similar boards in late sixties)
true ames heritage (10.5'')
true ames velzy noserider (10'')
a retro pivot (10.5'')
Since it will be glassed on what do you think will be the best (other shapes are welcome)?
I will shape the fin myself so I can fine tune it but I am really confused...
Thanks
Quote:
Anything you ask for...
Mikey, How does she noseride ?
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