Hi. If I add styrene to my normal laminating resin, will the styren thin the resin out and make it suitable for a gloss coat. If so how much styrene should I add. Thanks
There's no set amount or anyway I don't measure it. Add the styrene before you catalyze, stir thoroughly, and think. The fumes will help you think [wink] Catalyze when you think it's thinned enough. You don't want the resin to get really "watery" unless your hot coat sanding is very good, 'cuz if watery it won't fill little scratches (too thin). Also, suggest to set it off a little faster when you thin, so you don't get too much runoff or sags on the rails. Your brush work should determine how much resin stays on the board, not gravity. You don't want to breathe all that rapidly evaporating styrene (as if resin weren't bad enough), so get a good activated charcoal respirator filter, and ventilate your area. I'm always open to others with different opinions.
Well said Sluggo, Styrene Monomer acts like a knife on Polymers such as Polyester Resin. When the "mers" are not attached any more what we see is a reduction in the strength; big time. Shattery glass jobs are the result. Ideally, less styrene means more strength but the thicker resin is unruly. Try using heat to "thin" the resin. A burst in the microwave for 10 to 20 seconds will get you a high viscosity which will lay down thin. WARNING: do not overheat, bad things will happen. do not poison your loved ones. do not blow yourself up. Good Luck...
The only resin I use is laminating resin.For hot coats I add 3% wax in styrene (surfacing agent)per Kilo, up to 5% is acceptable.For gloss coats 3% w&s then I add 3 - 5 % styrene depending on the temp.The resin base is the same for all three.Additives for anti sagging and thinning and gell time are the only difference.If you have the resources to mix them your self there is no need to have three different pails of resin hanging around.David.
I am with Sluggo.I sometimes add styrene to Reichold Gloss resin because at times it comes in thick batches.Its just a finish coat.Its best to warm up your resin somehow if its cold in the room.We used to have a drum warmer that worked like an electric blanket that stayed on all the time in the winter.I am speaking of Silmar or Dion resins.Other resins are sometimes a bit thick for boards..I avoid them. R.B.
There's no set amount or anyway I don't measure it. Add the styrene before you catalyze, stir thoroughly, and think. The fumes will help you think [wink] Catalyze when you think it's thinned enough. You don't want the resin to get really "watery" unless your hot coat sanding is very good, 'cuz if watery it won't fill little scratches (too thin). Also, suggest to set it off a little faster when you thin, so you don't get too much runoff or sags on the rails. Your brush work should determine how much resin stays on the board, not gravity. You don't want to breathe all that rapidly evaporating styrene (as if resin weren't bad enough), so get a good activated charcoal respirator filter, and ventilate your area. I'm always open to others with different opinions.
thats not all you need to add to make it a gloss resin. lots of wax is needed. Austin S.
5% (weigth) of wax in styrene solution.
Can you say yellow or brittle. Glad I don't get boards from you guys. Sluggob
man, what did you say??
Well said Sluggo, Styrene Monomer acts like a knife on Polymers such as Polyester Resin. When the "mers" are not attached any more what we see is a reduction in the strength; big time. Shattery glass jobs are the result. Ideally, less styrene means more strength but the thicker resin is unruly. Try using heat to "thin" the resin. A burst in the microwave for 10 to 20 seconds will get you a high viscosity which will lay down thin. WARNING: do not overheat, bad things will happen. do not poison your loved ones. do not blow yourself up. Good Luck...
Hate to butt in... maybe I'm confused. Isn't "high" viscosity thick and "low" viscosity thin?
Sorry John, "low" is finer or thinner. "high" is what one gets when they breath styrene all day; like I did... [wink]
The only resin I use is laminating resin.For hot coats I add 3% wax in styrene (surfacing agent)per Kilo, up to 5% is acceptable.For gloss coats 3% w&s then I add 3 - 5 % styrene depending on the temp.The resin base is the same for all three.Additives for anti sagging and thinning and gell time are the only difference.If you have the resources to mix them your self there is no need to have three different pails of resin hanging around.David.
I am with Sluggo.I sometimes add styrene to Reichold Gloss resin because at times it comes in thick batches.Its just a finish coat.Its best to warm up your resin somehow if its cold in the room.We used to have a drum warmer that worked like an electric blanket that stayed on all the time in the winter.I am speaking of Silmar or Dion resins.Other resins are sometimes a bit thick for boards..I avoid them. R.B.
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