it´s like i said or David platt said. and that´s all!! if you don´t like, do not put more styrene . only NEW lam resin and the wax solution in styrene. no mo problems with the gloss
Since I am a mostly a hobby builder/repair person a 5gal. pail will last me 3 or 4 months. By the time the pail is 2/3's done the resin is noticably thicker. If warming doesn't work I will add styrene. Not sure how much I add since I go with the view it weakens the resin so it is not much. Just enough make the resin look and smell like the fresh stuff. Sometimes I will add some to a cheater coat to help it work into the lam coat. Don't usually add it to hotcoat. I figure thick with sags is better than thin and no sags. If I am using lam resin for a gloss as opposed to the good stuff I find I have to add a touch of styrene to make the heated resin thin enough. Haven't yet had the nerve to nuke the stuff. The potential for a modernday funny but dangerous surfboard building story would probably be the result in my case. Take care. Patrick
I didn't think about old resin when I made my last post.If its old and the styrene has evaporated its fine to freshen it up.There is a cutoff point,I once tried to refresh gloss resin that you had to dig out with a spoon and it failed.Probably safer to test a little batch of your thinned resin before glassing the family yacht. R.B,
it´s no matter how much styrene you add to an older resin. this resin will not be the same... tensil strength, mechanical problems, future cracks problems, too much bubbles, the adherence is not good, etc, these are some problems you´ll got it. by the way, the glass job may be look ok, but it´s not a ok one
We been using stuff called Cobolt promoter, which seems to make lam resin become perfect finish resin with just 2 drops. My glassed introducedme to it... anybody else aware of it? http://www.speedneedle.com.au
I did heat up the epoxy resin to thinner the viscousity. Never think it could work in poly resin. Good idea, a big substitute to styrene in hotcoating. Thanks Regards, CrabieHK
Consult an expert glasser( an oldtimer if possible) or chemist before trying this yourselve.Cobalt is a promoter sometimes added to speed up the gel time as opposed to adding extra catalyst. However, unless you are experienced this is not a good idea to try at home-I know this from experience. If cobalt comes in contact with catalyst outside of the resin mixture or even inside, if poorly mixed, there is a good chance of a violent reaction. I suspect this is why most resins are now prepromoted. Be very, very cautious with this stuff!!! Let the glasser do his magic. Take care. Patrick
If I don't want a glossy finish, do I need to do a gloss coat or can I fine sand the hot coat? Should I do it for extra strength?
That will work fine. I usually wet sand the hot coat up to 600 then 3m liquid finishing compounds. It's seems to work ok.Trev.
Sean: Yes, you can just fine sand the hot coat. Usually an acrylic sealant such as "Future" floor wax is applied after the fine sanding (see archives under Herb Spitzer). Yes, a gloss coat would provide a stronger sealant.You could just fine sand it if you don't want a glossy finish. Personally, I would go for the gloss if a little weight is not a big issue. Take care and have fun. Patrick