>>> I got a electric sander and got wild. How do I fix all the quarter moon > divits I have put all over the nose and tail? Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch with glass).....Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the industry........R.B.
>>> Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch > with glass).....Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the > industry........R.B. I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do they get paid better than the glassers?
>>> I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. > Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do > they get paid better than the glassers? The Sander a shapers best friend... Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make more and always have... Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you and your wrist to change direction. Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you??? It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then anybody in a factory. Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a pain. Good luck... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck... Funny you should mention the sander/hotcoater tension, when I was sanding I was wondering who gets pissed at whom...sander at the lam guy for a bad glass job etc. (like my own). I was using a 5 or 6 inch soft diskit pad, the kind you got to use glue. I was over the machine not behind doing the side on which I was standing. Guess I got it all wrong on this one. Floating sander?? That must come with experience. I hope to understand that one day. I think what I was doing, looking at the nose and tail, was digging the edge when changing direction at the end of a long stroke end to end. (get it?)
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck... Howzit Rob, couldn't of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction. Rob: O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock's. All that you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I've had learning it on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start). Tom S.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck...
>>> Howzit Rob, couldn't of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua ,,,,............THE BETTER/CLEANER your steps are,the better your end product will be. .......Learning to sand takes time,and is a art all in it's own,what these two guys just past onto you is priceless. ..........Here's a beginner's tip,get an old stick,garage sale,don't pay more than 10 bucks for it,and use it as a sanding practice board.Also good for boxes,etc. ..........Keep at it,and..........Herb
I'm pretty good with power tools...But the damage a disc power sander can do to a board scares me.... I believe in not doing more damage than you can fix, and a power sander can screw things up fast...I hand sand...
>>> O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock's. All that > you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I've had learning it > on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in > finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before > compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those > of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it > into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start).>>> Tom S. OK I'm no gloss master thats for sure. I hate pin lines that is for master glossers but what ever i screw up i always seam to beable to sand out flat. It starts with a good sand job. I Grind ( plugs, laps ) with a 6000 rpm Makita grinder. Then i come back and sand with a hard Power Pad with 80 grit and the 6000 all flats deck and bottom. Then i come back with the same used 80 grit paper on a med Pad and my polisher Vir/speed at 3000 rpms and fine tune flats. After i hit all the flats i slow the machine down to about 1500 rpms and sand my rails with a lite touch from nose to tail walking the rail. After i have finshed removing all the gloss from the hot coat I hit all flats with 120 grit at a slow speed maybe about 2000 rpms. After doing my hand sanding i hit the edges again with the 120 to remove any hand sanding scratches. Now if i'm glossing i'm done. When i sand finish i will hit the board with 220 and 400. Gloss Now that i have a good sand to 120 only. I apply a mix of gloss and sanding resin ( 249a and SA ) it helps flow better and it sands and polishes better. Take your time when taping off to make for a clean tape line. You'll see why when to buzz the rail bead. Polish Dry sand with 400 and a Med. Power Pad ( A good one )Bottom and deck. with the same paper buzz the bead of the rail don't burn and hit cloth. When using 400 hit the edge on the tail to remove the build up on the hard edge area. When you get done make a pass slap the pad to remove any extra gloss off the pad. then i come back and and hit with 600 with a soft Pad and roll it down the rail ( less hand sanding ) to remove any tits. don't worry about scratches on the rail. Rails polish so easy i only use 400 on my hand sand. The one trick is pull your paper ( sand ) in one direction NEVER CROSS SCRATCH or as little a you can. and in those areas just polish a little more. You can fix a real shitty gloss start with 120 or 220 then follow with 400 and 600 but always use a med or even a hard Pad to remove and sand out splits and tits. Remember when fixing a bad gloss never sand to much with 120 or 220 just remove any bad sections. Finish with 4 and 600.. Then use any good polish. and a yellow 3M pad the finish up with lambs wool pad. I hope that covers it. Make it shine http://surfnwsc.com
>>> I got a electric sander and got wild. How do I fix all the quarter moon > divits I have put all over the nose and tail? Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch with glass).....Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the industry........R.B.
>>> Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch > with glass).....Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the > industry........R.B. I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do they get paid better than the glassers?
>>> I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. > Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do > they get paid better than the glassers? The Sander a shapers best friend... Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make more and always have... Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you and your wrist to change direction. Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you??? It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then anybody in a factory. Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a pain. Good luck... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck... Funny you should mention the sander/hotcoater tension, when I was sanding I was wondering who gets pissed at whom...sander at the lam guy for a bad glass job etc. (like my own). I was using a 5 or 6 inch soft diskit pad, the kind you got to use glue. I was over the machine not behind doing the side on which I was standing. Guess I got it all wrong on this one. Floating sander?? That must come with experience. I hope to understand that one day. I think what I was doing, looking at the nose and tail, was digging the edge when changing direction at the end of a long stroke end to end. (get it?)
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck... Howzit Rob, couldn't of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua
>>> The Sander a shapers best friend...>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast.. Glassers make > more and always have...>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction. Rob: O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock's. All that you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I've had learning it on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start). Tom S.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square.. Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It's a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro.. To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand.. It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck...
>>> Howzit Rob, couldn't of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua ,,,,............THE BETTER/CLEANER your steps are,the better your end product will be. .......Learning to sand takes time,and is a art all in it's own,what these two guys just past onto you is priceless. ..........Here's a beginner's tip,get an old stick,garage sale,don't pay more than 10 bucks for it,and use it as a sanding practice board.Also good for boxes,etc. ..........Keep at it,and..........Herb
.......While I held up two fingers.........sheesh.....Herb
I'm pretty good with power tools...But the damage a disc power sander can do to a board scares me.... I believe in not doing more damage than you can fix, and a power sander can screw things up fast...I hand sand...
>>> O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock's. All that > you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I've had learning it > on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in > finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before > compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those > of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it > into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start).>>> Tom S. OK I'm no gloss master thats for sure. I hate pin lines that is for master glossers but what ever i screw up i always seam to beable to sand out flat. It starts with a good sand job. I Grind ( plugs, laps ) with a 6000 rpm Makita grinder. Then i come back and sand with a hard Power Pad with 80 grit and the 6000 all flats deck and bottom. Then i come back with the same used 80 grit paper on a med Pad and my polisher Vir/speed at 3000 rpms and fine tune flats. After i hit all the flats i slow the machine down to about 1500 rpms and sand my rails with a lite touch from nose to tail walking the rail. After i have finshed removing all the gloss from the hot coat I hit all flats with 120 grit at a slow speed maybe about 2000 rpms. After doing my hand sanding i hit the edges again with the 120 to remove any hand sanding scratches. Now if i'm glossing i'm done. When i sand finish i will hit the board with 220 and 400. Gloss Now that i have a good sand to 120 only. I apply a mix of gloss and sanding resin ( 249a and SA ) it helps flow better and it sands and polishes better. Take your time when taping off to make for a clean tape line. You'll see why when to buzz the rail bead. Polish Dry sand with 400 and a Med. Power Pad ( A good one )Bottom and deck. with the same paper buzz the bead of the rail don't burn and hit cloth. When using 400 hit the edge on the tail to remove the build up on the hard edge area. When you get done make a pass slap the pad to remove any extra gloss off the pad. then i come back and and hit with 600 with a soft Pad and roll it down the rail ( less hand sanding ) to remove any tits. don't worry about scratches on the rail. Rails polish so easy i only use 400 on my hand sand. The one trick is pull your paper ( sand ) in one direction NEVER CROSS SCRATCH or as little a you can. and in those areas just polish a little more. You can fix a real shitty gloss start with 120 or 220 then follow with 400 and 600 but always use a med or even a hard Pad to remove and sand out splits and tits. Remember when fixing a bad gloss never sand to much with 120 or 220 just remove any bad sections. Finish with 4 and 600.. Then use any good polish. and a yellow 3M pad the finish up with lambs wool pad. I hope that covers it. Make it shine http://surfnwsc.com
Pages