Glassing painted blank problem

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Anonymous (not verified)

Howzit Guys, 1 problem I have is when laminating a dark colored blank the excess resin I squeegee from the rail on to the blank tends to cause an opaque discoloration that shows after I lam the deck. I've been asking around about this and have gotten all kinds of answers. Some of the answers: UV resin, type of paint, don't worry the sun will make it blend after a while,etc,etc. Any of you had this problem and what's your take on it. Nothing worse than shooting a beautiful airbrush only to have it ruined. Then I end up giving a discount even though I made no mistakes. I was at BASA's the other day and he had the same problem, now I know why he hates glassing painted boards. Aloha Kokua

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LeeD (not verified)

Hey K Dark spray jobs are always hard to make even after glassing and polishing. Heck, it's hard to keep even because the paint needs to be thick, and thick paint can cause problems with lamination. Do you always squeegee the board again after the rails are squeegeed up? A 3oz mix of lam resin, squeegeed in after complete layup, saturates everything again, a necessary procedure when lam ing over darker colors. That's my only answer, other than passing on dark colored spray jobs. Remember, your rails have two layers of glass, and the tail rails might have 3, affecting the color of the paint job.

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Austin S. (not verified)

kokua you could always baste the entire deck to get a fluid decoloration...just an idea. Austin S. http://members.cox.net/austinsurfboards/redmarble.html

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kokua (not verified)

Howzit Lee, Actually there's 3 layers on the rails but that's not the problem. I'm talking about the area above the rail on the deck after the bottom lay-up where I sweep the resin to protect the paint when I take down the lap edge. What you describe sounds like a total deck baste after the lam, wouldn't make a difference in this case. Aloha, Kokua

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kokua (not verified)

Howzit Austin, I know 1 glasser that does that to red painted boards to prevent the dreaded crystallazation monster, and you can get away with it on a heavy board. But on shorties and high performance long boards it adds to much weight. But you are on the right track and that will work. What I'm looking for right now is what causes it.Aloha, Kokua

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LeeD (not verified)

Hey Oh, dense me, I guess you are talking about freelapping an airbrushed board, and the drippings get on the paint. I'd tape off, but what to do about the line? Hmmmm.....I don't think I ever freelapped a top and bottom airbrushed blank, so I don't know!

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surflab (not verified)

What type of paint are you using{brand} http://www.surfboardglassing.com

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kokua (not verified)

Howzit Surflab, Liquatex paint. Aloha, Kokua

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reverb (not verified)

kokua, i never had this problem...but i have got problem when airbrush all the board.. always seems like the rails zone are darker...man... i use temperas or artist acrylic colours...

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surflab (not verified)

you could both stand to use better paint and it will yeild better results. I tried tons of paints, and settled in with novacolor, I cant preach enough about thier paints. Great coverage, great adhesion, never had a crstalization or any other PAINT related issue. http://www.surfboardglassing.com

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reverb (not verified)

i enter to the novacolor page...and dunno seems which type of color...

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Anonymous's picture
surflab (not verified)

http://www.novacolorpaint.com/pages/prices.html Order a color sheet its free instead of a printed paper they have dabs of all the paints. they have some great colors. http://www.surfboardglassing.com

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Anonymous's picture
Bert Burger (not verified)

kokua you using poly or epoxy ???? i know the problem you got, its way worse with epoxy ,ive had it happen with poly as well but like you say on dark colours....because your working the resin into the cloth it starts to get frothy and foamy from working it, when you work that resin to the rails for the laps its actually full of tiny air bubbles and it has a milky look.....only 2 things i can suggest ,,,, 1 work bottom ,then do a seperate mix for laps , or a little styrene, theres probably other ways of dealing with it ,once you know what the problem is.... regards BERT

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John Mellor (not verified)

I've been dreading glassing a sprayed board for fear of causing the very problem you're having. I've thought about just doing a cutlap but don't want to mess the paint up when pulling masking tape. I thought I read here that an acrylic spray might protect the painted areas on the overlap. Does the discoloration seem to be from paint bleeding or resin discoloration? Have you ever tried spraying the bottom AND the rails with acrylic before laminating? Are you using UV resin? Herb Spitzer has warned against using UV resin for basting (even on a clear board) because of discoloration issues. Obviously, I have more questions than answers. When's that friggin' S.A. meeting?

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Herb Spitzer (not verified)

.......No good on paints,use regular cat. .........even nova paints in dark colors will discolor with U.V. cat.,just not as intense.Herb

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Anonymous's picture
kokua (not verified)

Howzit Bert I'm using UV poly,it seems to me that if there were bubbles I'd see them, plus before I wrap the rails I add some extra resin to the rails to make sure they aren't to dry. As for adding styrene, that might have a negative reaction since styrene will definitly cut the paint. Aloha, Kokua

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Anonymous's picture
kokua (not verified)

Howzit Surflab, Got the Nova info and color sheet about 6 months ago. They're prices are really good but when it comes to shipping to Hi. it costs almost as much as the paint. We're working on putting together a hui to bring it in on the barge for a cheaper shipping cost. Aloha, Kokua

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Anonymous's picture
kokua (not verified)

Howzit Herb, I used to think that UV might be the cause, But I had the problem before I started using UV. Also I was at BASA's shop the other day and he had the same problem and he doesn't use UV. I'm beginning to hate solid color painted boards. Aloha, Kokua

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surflab (not verified)

herb I use NOVA and strictly UV and have had no incidents at all with crystalization, or any other discoloration smearing or other color related issues. I use a curing tube controlled times etc. That would be the only thing i could think of that would be the variable. http://www.surfboardglassing.com

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Anonymous's picture
Herb Spitzer (not verified)

.........Your set-up I'm sure is much better controlled than my rig.I use the sun,so there's a lot of variables for me.Using UV cat and darkies,I play the how to pre-destort the paint pattern to hide the UVs discoloration,............solid darkies.......tougher yet,and for me better to use straight mekp*.*Just my way,not ness. the best way by any standards,but it gets me great results.I have some colors in Nova(darks),and like the results,But I have noticed some minor discolor or distortion w/ UV cat.and sunlight(or my grubby paws???). ...........**The best way I found to lam a dark painted blank is: Regular(not hot,but mfg.recommended amt.s) MEKP cat. w/ a 1/4 amt. of UV cat.combined.This allows me to set it off fast in the mid stage of the gell.I have been using Liquitex,Nova,Golden Fluids,but lately have switched my primary colors over to tempura powders mixed w/ Future acrylic floor shine and have gotten some positive results.Herb

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kokua (not verified)

Howzit Surflab, Nova is good paint but have had the problem with it also. Aloha, Kokua

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Anonymous's picture
kokua (not verified)

Howzit Herb, what I'm thinking of trying is to not kick the resin all the way to hard and let it slowly harden over night. Like just kicking it just enough to gel the resin. Might work. Aloha, Kokua

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