Hello Eric, thanks for the long post, all good information for others who might be reading this thread too. So you also prefer your twin fins further up. My early twin fins had sliding boxes so thats how I established my measurements. Back to concave again - although I havent tried deeper than 3mm I can personally testify that my single concave board does have a controlability problem in solid heavy textured waves and I've had it sort of sticking flat to the surface on steep heavy takeoffs instead of engaging a rail and angling easily - however this is a short stubby board , what you are planning has stability compensators. Your suggestion that not much polyester would have penetrated is encouraging and I just read a good article on pinholes on surfline's shaper's bay. It suggests that they are "blow thru" caused by warmed setting resin causing lightweight blanks to expand their gas. So I'm hopefull that the polyester would have been pushed out rather than sucked in - the whole lot was room temp. But I can imagine a board warmed in the car and then placed in the cold sea sucking in water. I'm going to seek a professional sander/bay - maybe where I got my last custom board in Cali might do it. I've managed to get away without complaints from my neighbours so far and the two layers of poly tarp have kept the resin off the floor. As you have noticed the epoxy dries to a sandable finish - no sandpaper clogging stickiness. I got sb-112 partly coz it claimed no amine-blush thus allowing multiple laminations to stick without sanding - I hope. Its been a great learning process so far. Although the smell is a lot less than poly I wouldn't take it lightly - I found an archive written by Noodle who had got sensitivity after only 10 boards or so. I don't notice a smell thru my mask with organic filter but don't know whats getting thru. A garden shed would be wonderful, but at least ventilation wise I'm doing ok - I'm on the top floor of a narrow apartment and the breeze can flow in thru the bedroom and out through the balcony door on the otherside when glassing.
An uneventful boardbuilding day today. Well sort of. The pigment instructions say that it will work for polyester, urethane or epoxy but use 25% less for epoxy. I'm not in the mood for experimenting after yesterdays events and hot coat with a 8/3.5oz clear epoxy mix . Use about 3/4 of this - hmmm is the board absorbing it or not? maybe just trying to level itself out on the textured cloth is where all the resin goes. Wait 20min for the pot to go into its sticky phase. Yes blow thru is an accurate term I can see gas bubbles emerge from the pinhoes. I pull the tape and go to the office. After about an hour in work a horrible thought enters my head. I put the mixing pot containing the leftovers on the balcony and the sun would be on it by now - even with its long sticky phase epoxy sets with a lot of heat - I have visions of my apartment on fire. I exit the office, jump on my bicycle - 5mins to home if I step hard on the pedals. All is well - phew! Maybe the fumes are making me paranoid. When arriving home in the evening all odour has gone - the balcony door was left open. The hot coat is no longer tacky. The board looks a bit of a joke, a patchy white hot coat on deck and clear on underneath. This can still be an ok board I tell myself. Get it sanded and coloured sealer should cover it all up. On the plus side the shape did come out how I imagined it, my kitchen scales are still clean (a layer of cling wrap discarded after every use protected it), the dining table on the which the blank was hot wire cut and mixing was done is still intact. I had a piece of drywall on the table anyway from when I was building model aircraft and waxed paper protected it during resin mixing. I also took the approach of throwing away my yoghurt mixing pots after every use and not attempting to wash brushes. Nevertheless what I did was not sensible, but no reward without risk. This will be my last post until I get it sanded.
Hey Mr. J - how about taking some pictures and posting them? It could be helpful to show how it looks now and after the colored sealer goes on - unless you end up not liking the color, of course. The shape is (or should be) the most important aspect, and remember that a colored sealer coat can be sanded down and sprayed over until you get it to satisfaction. It can work well. I did essentially the same thing on an old board a while ago with polyester resin. Dressed it up nicely (see Resource ID # 283). A colored sanding coat. Now that board has been stripped, reshaped, and cut down to a 7'7" mini longboard/egg type thing with tiger stripes on the bottom, and (since I cannot leave well enough alone) I may cut it down further and make a nice twin/fishy thing in the 6'4" range. That might be my next vacation project. Thanks for the info from the pigment spec's you have. Glad to get some confirmation. I plan on doing the foam stain in a few days. White over the pink to start. Then maybe I'll get more creative - more likely my daughter will make some suggestions that I'll incorporate. I'll try to get some pictures of the process too. I need lam epoxy. Time to email Greg L. Glad to hear your room is intact ...so far. Eric J
Hello Eric, I've been taking pictures of the building process with a regular camera so I'll get them scanned and post some regardless of the aesthetic result. I can't wait to start playing with the configurations allowed by the 5 fin boxes. Thanks for referring me to your resource, the streaky abstract finish you achieved gives me some ideas for my final colour coat. I look forward to hearing more from your pink xps project.
Construction resumed today. A fellow Swaylockian responded to my "Wanted:board sanded" advert and offered use of his modified sanding pad which fits in the chuck of an electric drill. (thanks Kim). The neigbour below and to the side of me left their apartments (I could tell from the vacant car spots) so it was a good time to lay the poly-tarp on the balcony and get going. My chunks of foam rocker table were placed on the floor and sanding proceeded. My re-chargable electric drill runs with sufficient torque and low speed, but ran out of energy rather quickly. I managed to get another partial charge out of it and do most of the underneath then did the rails by hand. As I explained before the hull is hot coated in epoxy and the deck in polyester. The epoxy is noticeably tougher and requires more effort but does not clog the paper. The drill is getting an overnight charge and I expect to finish sanding tomorrow.
what's your initial impressions on the strength?
Hey Mr.J - 'Things' came up this weekend and I was unable to work on the pink project at all - . I did take a few minutes to lay some foam-stain stripes on the bottom of a shortboard I had shaped a while ago (another re-shape on an old board that I stripped) and never glassed - yet. That worked fine, except that I mixed the resin batches (epoxy) hot enough that it melted the little plastic mixing cups used for the different colors when it started to cure. Lesson learned. Stripes were done by soaking a piece of roving in colored resin and then laying it over the foam and wrapping it around the rail to a tape edge - then lift and it leaves just a bit of colored resin on the foam where the roving has been (If you do this be sure to let the roving drain for a bit after dunking it in the colored resin that way you avoid drips and puddles). I've done this before (in lamination - not on the foam) with clean, white, cotton string - string was a bit easier to handle than roving and soaked up a more even amount of resin along it's length. Roving is always kinda messy and has a bit more memory than string so it can be hard to handle. Stripes worked out fine on the foam with very little in the way of bump or raised surface along the stripe. I'm going to lam clear over this and avoid having to cut laps. More on the pink xps project when I get some more resin... and I'm going to get film to take a few before and after pics. I've sanded with a drill before too... that can be much harder than with a standard sander/polisher tool since the angle of the drill makes it harder to control the pad. Hope all works out well and you get the thing sanded out without too much trouble - or dust. Keep posting more - and if you haven't - take a look at the $35 board post and link - not quite true at $35. as I'm sure you realize. Eric
when I achieve my long term ambition of owning a garden shed I want to get into all the foam stain and acid splash psychedelic stuff, so your post was interesting. However I'm aiming to be realistic with what can be achieved in my apartment and the main objective of this excercise is to test some of my rocker, twinzer, rail shape and hull theories. Board is now finished and ready for testing. I sanded the board the best I could on the poly tarp on my balcony. The best thing I can do with the poly tarp now is to throw it away to avoid contaminating my apartment with dust and glass strands from the glassing process. My balcony comes with a little storage area which is now full of foam offcuts and other scrap. Acrylic sealer from fiberglasssupply.com seems to stick ok to epoxy or polyester. Very little is needed and it went on with a foam brush and dries for recoat in 30min. I mixed in some blue latex house paint from homedepot for the second coat . I was borrowing from the streaky finish that you achieved. It was just what I needed to cover up the incompletely sanded ripples in the hull and when combined with the sanded patchy white hot coat on the deck gives the board a sort of beat up antique look. Nevertheless I am stoked and can't wait to test it. It feels strong, but only testing will determine that. The place where boards always go with me are the tail and near the rail where the hands are placed for popping to the feet. I didn't put any extra reinforcement in the hand area so that will be the test. Tail has a patch which makes 3 layers of 6oz so that should be more than adequate. The board weighs a rather heavy 8.5 lbs or so (with 2 fins) and I consider the spyder foam (which feels similar in strength to clark) to be overglassed. The stringerless shaped foam prior to glassing weighed 3.4 lbs. I've set the twin fins 10 3/4 from the tail which used to be my standard twin fin measurement, but this board is a little longer than the ones I built in my younger days. Its also got a rounded pintail (although I have built a couple of round tail twinnies before). I therefore, if anything expect the fins to be a little too far back. If this is the case then I'm hoping that by moving some of the load onto some front twinzers I can balance it out. However if the twin fin placement feels just right then I can grind down the front twinzers into superchargers. Thats the theory anyway - I hope to find out very soon. PS. hats off to the styro/polyester builder for making his methods open source, his 3 stage suncure method may be a good way for a first time laminator, but $35 no way. I just blew almost one third of that budget yesterday on disposable vinyl gloves, 3 sheets of sandpaper and a small can of paint!
Go ride 'em and report Mr. J. And congrats on getting it done in you apt too. Just proves that all my years of bitching that I had no place to try shaping were bunk. I am surely spoiled with the shed by comparison. The weight sounds OK to me - considering all the boxes you were installing and the foam itself. Wishing you a week of consistent surf for testing out the shape & fin configs. Eric
I was at home depot the other day and didn't see the pink or blue foam. They had white foam for garage doors, I don't think it's the same thing. I'll have to check lowes.