The best spray paint in a can I've ever found is Design Master paints which you can get at any Micheal's craft shop. Comes in ton's of different colors and the spray heads never clog. Stuff rules. You can also use it on polystyrene blanks.
Gregs post reminded me that the acrylic lacquer I mentioned earlier will only work on polyurethane foam..it will melt EPS. R.B.
Im kinda thinking that a Tinted Resin might be a better option.(please tell me otherwise if so) What do you guys typically use, A paint to foam process or a tinted resin process? Or why might one be bettter than the other? Im really only interested in covering the entire board with one single color. Maybe a solid Green or Yellow. That being the case, would a logo design then need to be placed on the Sanded coat before glossing due to the "opaque" tinted resin? I would imagine that any images designed on rice paper would never show though if applied directly on the foam. Would rice paper work successfully used ontop of the Sanded coat? I only bug you guys cause you seem to know everything. You guys rule. Thanks again, Kevin
Herb, could you elaborate more on what you mean by (as long as they are compatible). Sorry, first timer,thanks for the speedy response.I don't have a spray set up,I'm refering to Acric Lacqure in a spray can.
.......glossy acrylic lacquer,okay.........glossy krylon,no good,to oily.Herb
Thank's again Herb !
Personally Brian i like the way resin tint looks i just had a friend make a resin tinted board for me and it is just sick.
Are there any problems with spray painting EPS? I imagine the EPS soaking quite a lot of paint and the texture of the beads showing through the paint, not to mention a spackled blank. Or does the new and improved EPS help on this as well? How about the epoxy sticking to a blank that has been painted, does it change anything? regards, Håvard
The future in in spaying the sanded hotcoat and glossing over it, and sanding with 220........don't sand throught the gloss coat..........
i tried out the design master series from michaels, and even after allowing it to cure for 6+weeks it totally ran. i am wondering ifi should have clearcoated it first...or if i had hit it with the full amount of hardener might have helped. this was my first attempt at shaping, painting, and glassing. it was recommended to me to use 5cc of hardener with my polyester resin as it was somewhat hot out and also my first time and i definitely needed more working time. as it stands it has been around 90 degrees out and two and a half days and it is still too goopy to sand out the burrs and drippys so that i may get to hotcoating. perhaps had i gone with 15cc of hardener it would have set up better and not allowed for sooo much time for the paint to melt down? i already have another board shaped and ready to go, but i would like to clear this up before botching up another board.-bosco