Condolences ~ to one with just a three finned board: Neither leader nor follower, simply maritime, I scope the water constantly ~ fish mornings, surf afternoon's alternately evenings are devoted to design. Among tool and foils I find no score. And so I'm off again to bathe ~ shoot that best, less ridden wave. Mahalo, Rich
dam hippies...............that single fin comment was genius ...i kinda got a soft spot for that hippy mentality ...i was raised by one.... man ,i hope i dont say anything to offensive to swaylockian's ,,,wouldnt want to get tackled by all you guys
I hope Yanks don`t choke on Bruce H`s fine words! I`ll repeat them: "Anyone who isn't riding a Thruster in 2004 is not keeping pace with the dynamic that's happening in Australian surfboarding in the 21st Century! US surfboarding culture has developed along its own lines..that's all cool. Keep your eyes open and don`t fall asleep! No offense but OZ still leads the surf world!" How many times does history repeat itself? You old dusty blokes may try to remember John Witzig`s famous post-1966 World titles manifesto "We`re tops now!" "A plastic drinking straw in sterile paper protective wrapper? A 75c hamburger? A carton of pasteurized homogenized castrated imitation milk? Sure! Left hand drive $50 Buick. Fall out shelter-America. Palm trees (plastic?) freeway highway byway anyway, there's very good surf in Hawaii. There's December Sunset with Hynson(,) Grigg, Diffenderfer, Dowing. Big motha Wiamea. Aipa Doyle Miller and Jackie good-vibes. The Duke with Jock - hot Jock. Beee-ootiful Haliewa, 60 guys out, or in, or somewhere. And there's Barry and Garry land. And there's an $11 flight to Kaanapali, Maui, another kind of America. America? It must be Plastic drinking straws are a bust. Maui ...reeking of "the real islands". Green, high mountains, green deep valleys, pineapples, slow, rainy, hot, sunny. Lahaina's the town. Old whaling port, and it really says so. Docks, harbour, reefs, shanties, bars, dens, pits, plenty of slow smiles. A few tourists - mainly nights. Beee-ootiful town calls beautiful people - young people from U.S. east and west coasts are making changes there, making their peace there, making their love there. Spiritual centre. Christ centre. Lahaina-mother Maui's third eye. Everyone surfs - or knows what surfing's doing. Several small board shops - Thurston's, Buddy Boy's and Brewer's. Maybe Willie's. Strawberry Fields kind of. Boards are great. Small shops have the freedom to be great. They can change fast. These shops are one place where its really happening. R. B, Richard Brewer. The wheel of U.S. board design - pintail man. Does his thing once or twice or thrice a week at Buddy Boy's. R. B. Dick is feeling things now - Vees, tuned fins, lack of length. Why? Herein lies a story. Up the coast a bit is Honolua Bay. Wow!! It's just a little cool-green of course, thick, trees very trippy. Buddy Boy's Bay. Slow bouncy drive, cruise to a halt. Silence till a set comes through. Mmm. Wall's good. Its come up a few feet! Aaaagh! Did you see that curl? That's a tube right there. Lets get into those Mothers! Paddle off the ramp through brown rainwater for 100 yards, moving past the inside dribblies now. Looking up - another set hitting outside - Wow. That's bigger than it looked in there - must be six feet. Faster paddling. Move past the bowl. Aaaagh!! That's a cathedral! Six feet high - moving fast, throwing hard and perfect - out - arching curving down. .. keerrack!! whoomfff. Water's so clear! Green flat rock. Glassy bay. This take- off looks tight. Deep water onto a ledge - in front of a cliff with a just cave. Just cave? Bring good karma with you ...no pukas, bad karma? ...Well ...Honolua breaks boards as well as perfectly. Set. Visible a half-mile out, swinging on those outside reefs. Runs wide. .. then in! Wow. This thing is stacking up! Might just move out a little more! Take the second one I guess. First one looks mighty good! About 6 feet. Aah ... let it go. Ulp! That's got to be eight feet!! Wooo!! Bowling slightly even here on the take-off! Now. ..easy. .. two paddles. ..lift-off! Deerop!! ... down into that curve. ..bring it up on edge. ..GET IT ON!! Thhrrust! Move it out! Up. Under. Curl. Coming over! Right over! (that noise) Inside! (that feel) A GIANT GREEN CATHEDRAL AND I AM THERE. Positive-Negative Pow!! Infinity. Curl just going further ahead of me, but it's right! This situation is flawless. Now only water visible sky gone - can't see out but who needs to because time is gone. Seconds? Minutes? A lifetime. Crystals. Soundsmells. Tastefeels. Forever. Now. The door is open. The wave laughs, board breathes, sun smiles, Cruise out into ... peace ... Good Honolua is a tube from take off to calm centre. This day Nat and I had our deep Vees going. Ted S. had his 8'9" pintail in one piece till it was two pieces. Buddy Boy was visiting Him on most rides - in spite of his overlong machine. George did It quite often. .. Paule made It. Six hours at six to eight feet. Only a few there. Coupla cameras, coupla shapers--one was R. B. Dick was digging the whole thing. Those Vees - pulling turns in the most tight spots, gaining speed in those turns, thrusting out of them. Making waves, making them tighter. Pintails were beautiful - in the fall line. Magical Mystery Tours. But the U.S. - going round, up, thru- thrusting!! YOU got the speed. YOU went where you wanted - when you wanted. Said R. B. when asked - "They work." Dick Brewer went to his groovy tin shed and made a beautiful pintail - 'V' bottom. Just a basic change of design - no "yippee-we did it first" because who is "we"? We are all brothers 'V' is one change - many many more coming up from many many people - so names don't matter. Minimum drag and high rise tails, flex tails, interchangeable flex tails, false bottoms, keels rather than skegs, bat ray bottoms - it's all happen\ing. So dig it, brother." Bob McTavish - Surf International magazine February - March 1968 A note to would-be American "innovators", please read that line again: "Minimum drag and high rise tails, flex tails, interchangeable flex tails, false bottoms, keels rather than skegs, bat ray bottoms - it's all happening." Yanks need to comprehend it`s all been done before! Most likely before you were born! Doesnt that sound familiar to some of Swaylocks recent furious "debates"? How many times does history repeat itself? Ted Spencer, Little Red, Lahina, Maui, December 1967. Photograph by John Witzig http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1967o0101mctavish_howto_sw.html
I think Bruce H rides a fat penguin drew
Anyone riding only a thruster in 2004 is living in the 80s. http://www.blakestah.com/fins/
What if you were the best in the world and nobody else gave a shit. Would you still be number one?
Come on man, do you really believe that? Anyone riding only a thruster in 2004 is living in the 80s.
riding only one kind of board is like painting a picture with only one color.
It doesn't really matter what the Aussies say or what the Yanks say and certainly not what the judges say... it's what you feel here (fist to chest) or here (grabs crotch) or here (finger to temple) when you get that perfect wave in the perfect spot riding your favorite board.
>>>thrusters...Master Simon Anderson...Kelly Slater World Champion,australian rules surfing... bravo "Australian rules surfing" - another nice one, Ambrose. Assuming this whole thread is good natured, let me fire back with my own opinion. But first, a story...I may be repeating myself but perhaps there are new people. Once upon a time a friend came by my house to have me type up a college biology paper for him. It was several hand-written pages with no paragraphs and no punctuation, on the topic of "Estrogen". After a bit I was getting frustrated trying to figure out how to properly break it up, and was constantly peppering him with questions. Eventually I had to ask why he chose this particular topic, and was told everybody in the class was given the same "estrogen" topic for their term paper. Not being much for brainless authority I ranted a bit about how stupid that was. My friend replied, "Not really", and explained that if you have 35 papers all on the same topic, the good and the bad will easily stand out, making them much easier to grade for the teacher. And therein may lie the genius of the thruster, born of a need to compete. It is by nature of its design a homogenizer...the better surfers stand out quite clearly. If you don't believe me, just go to any surf beach. Of course the thruster design has had huge value in cutting edge waveriding performance, in all its permutations, as had the traveling pro show in bringing a chance to really see new frontiers to various regions. How many times should we reinvent the past? I say "every time it's necessary."