WOW! Look how sensitive of a topic this is. Every board builder has the choice to state their own board prices; whether it be low or sky high. The market will dictate what sells. Your product's quality will dictate if it will sell. I feel sorry for the full time board maker who has to rely on another's surf shop to carry and promote his boards. The overhead of the shop eats into their personal profit. You really can't blame the small part-time "underground" custom board builder who remains an illegitmate business (no business license & non tax paying). It's a great hobby and extra money making side job. The little underground guy has to start somewhere, and may even become a full-time legitimate tax paying business if his customer base grows!
In 1964, my '62 Volkswagen Bug cost about $1,400 and my 10' Southcoast (with T-band, matching glass nose and tail blocks, tons (!) of resin color work, shaped by Joley) cost about $140. Today a new Volkswagen Bug starts at $17,000. Do the math! So many folks have disparaged the moulded epoxy boards, citing, among other things, 1)the low wages (supposedly) paid to the production workers, and 2) how these moulded boards are going to hurt the industry. And then we read the comments, the complaints, about the cost of a professionally made surfboards - surfboards that are produced domestically, by some very knowledgable and talented folks, who would just like to make a living for themselves and their families.
I think the material costs are a lot more than what people give them credit for. There's a lot of little "extras" which add up. The stringers are usually elaborate and sometmes tailblocks are added. I believe Volan is used on his boards and there's sometimes a glass on fin. The shapes are good, I can tell a lot of care went into them. I don't think $1100 is unreasonable at all for a retail board like that. There's obviously a market for them and they're moving. Can you say there's something wrong with that?
Just to let you know, tudors boads are shaped by Bill Shrosbee(s/p?) I have seen dozens of tudor boards, and all shaped by him.
hey, Amrbose, would you believe I have a Olson, that was shaped by Doug Haut hanging from my rafters. 10' two 1" redwood stringers side by side, and a redwood tail block. S/N 487. What would you say that one is worth? Oh by the way it is at least a 8 maybe a 8 1/2.
There's always reference to foam, glass, shaper and glasser when alot of people say how cheaply a board can be made for. Refer back to the Longboard Mag. building article of a couple of months ago to the 2 page cartoon spread of a REAL surfboard building operation. Think of the investment in real dollars just to set that up, plus man it, plus insure it, plus make it OSHA compliant for VOC's/Hazmats etc (if most neighbors of the majority of people on this site knew what we were doing, they'd have us shut down in a heartbeat no matter how safety concious we are)...Plus everyone in there is looking for a paycheck every week. As I sand off what was otherwise a beautiful gloss coat because the Posca pin line bled down the rail, I don't think an $1,100 board by a master shaper and finished to perfection is too much to pay. Also being a woodworker by trade, I know it's not.
"Just to let you know, tudors boads are shaped by Bill Shrosbee(s/p?) I have seen dozens of tudor boards, and all shaped by him" And SK...
Very well said! Ref.: Longboard Magazine, April 2003
Howzit Pete, As for your posca pin line bleeding, next time as you're laying down the pin line with the Posca use a hair dryer to set the pin line, it won't bleed. Posca in one hand, hair dryer in the other. Aloha, Kokua
STU shapes da shorter boards. Bill shapes the longboards. I own 1 of Joel's short board, shaped by Stu. I paid a lot for it. The thing is, out of all the shortboards I've ridden, the Joel Tudor single fin "Indo swallow tail" has been the best I have ever rode. My theory is to avoid any board with a sanded finish. Yes, the sanded finish makes da board lighter, but afta a month or so the board loses it magic. Why? Cuz water tends to seep in. Sanded is good if ur a pro with a board sponsor, but if not go with da polished. It'll surf better and you'll be happy fo' a long time. Ask any shaper and he'll tell ya. If not then he ain't a good shaper.