I would love to hear from ya... do you like it on the deck, on a compsand, a coil ?
Why slow hardener.? With a 55 gallon drum you use maybe 2- gallons of slow to get the job done on veneesands or whatever you call them. On coils I use charmin. The 2040 is used between the skin and the foam, long cure only if necessary for the specific job. (huge board, doing both sides simultaneously, multiple boards, working alone, no temp control in shop etc).
The type of resin by flex rating is personal preference. Are you looking for some set in stone cook book answer? Fast is where it is at, flex choice is a great way to sell epoxy.
So to answer your question, It works slower.
you looking for some set in stone cook book answer?
You also use slow in very hot conditions. I actually like using slow a lot. A lot of laminators use slow in FL in the summer. Some use it because they like working slow with no anxiety. The boards I built in the WMD thread were laminated on the outside with slow ..... it was damn hot when I did those.
2040 is for more flex. Use it if that's what you like to ride or if your building a board that's for a novice and your looking for durability. Add more glass. The thing will take a shot and not look back.
Some of the more experienced guys who have been building epoxies for a long time like to use 2020 or 2040 on the bottom of the board and 2000 on the deck. They say the board has a livlier feel that way. I never noticed a big difference but then everyone is different.
Yeah I remember using the long cure, old formula, in California 1997. Post lam at 20 minutes everything is fine. Check on it at 40 minutes and gas off delams the size of tennis balls. I called it my Anti-Phazer boards but the Willis bros had issues with the new design name.
Yeah for CA fast is better for sure.
In the past three years I've been working with Homegrown Trailers near Seattle... We build the exterir skin (front / top / rear) with 1/8" bending ply... That is glassed with RR epoxy... In those three years I've hand laminated, top coated (x2) and final coated about 20,000 sq. ft. of fiberglass... I have hand stirred epoxy for over 100 hours... It's a lot...
Besides cleanliness, temperatures above 65 F and a mixing time of 3 minutes per batch... THE MOST IMPORTANT THING after correct ratios and timed stirring is to let the epoxy "rest" in the cup for 5 minutes... Get the chemical reaction going...!!!...
We are doing 256 sq. ft. (8' wide x 32' long) at a time, using eight 500 gram batches ... The resin is mixed by weight... Resin weight x 1.44 for hadener... Mix - Rest - and Apply... We apply the resin from the cup with a foam roller, and tip-off with a brush...
This method was developed with a lot of input from Matt Weaver at Fiberglass Supply...
Nice. I have seen a few of those around in the NW.
rr2040 is long elongation to break low stiffness modulus resin so you ended with a flexible thouger skin that is, on eps foam, easy to dent but harder to "open dings". more skin is (flexural) stiff less it dent, for increase flexural stiffness increase thickness and/or use stiffer (higher modulus) materials.